Is there a Clutch adustment on Solaras with 5-spd?

[CJS]

Tital says it all. I posted before about the grainy feeling, now I realize there is no free play in the pedal, and the engagement is way too high up off the floor. Anyone?

[s e y t o n]

i remember i posted something just like this when i first got my car. at the time nobody knew of any adjustments. ive gotten used to it now. im just gunna go with aftermarket clutch when i need it and hope theres a difference.

[Jetfixer]

CLUTCH PEDAL
INSPECTION
1. CHECK THAT PEDAL HEIGHT IS CORRECT
Pedal height from asphalt sheet:
1MZ–FE: 161.8 – 171.8 mm (6.370 – 6.764 in.)
5S–FE: 156.8 – 166.8 mm (6.173 – 6.567 in.)
2. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL HEIGHT
Loosen the lock nut and turn the stopper bolt until the height is
correct. Tighten the lock nut.
3. CHECK THAT PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSH ROD
PLAY ARE CORRECT
Push in on the pedal until the beginning of clutch resistance is
felt.
Pedal freeplay: 5.0 – 15.0 mm (0.197 – 0.591 in.)
Gently push the pedal until the resistance begins to increase a
little.
Push rod play at pedal top:
1.0 – 5.0 mm (0.039 – 0.197 in.)
4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL FREEPLAY AND
PUSH ROD PLAY
(a) Loosen the lock nut and turn the push rod until the freeplay
and push rod play are correct.
(b) Tighten the lock nut.
(c) After adjusting the pedal freeplay, check the pedal height.
(d) Connect the air duct and install the lower finish panel.
5. INSPECT CLUTCH RELEASE POINT
(a) Pull the parking brake lever and install wheel stopper.
(b) Start and idle the engine.
(c) Without depressing the clutch pedal, slowly shift the shift
lever into reverse position until the gears contact.
(d) Gradually depress the clutch pedal and measure the
stroke distance from the point the gear noise stops (release
point) up to the full stroke end position.
Standard distance:
25 mm (0.98 in.) or more
(From pedal stroke end position to release point)
If the distance not as specified, do the following operation.

Inspect pedal height.

Inspect push rod play and pedal freeplay.

Bleed the clutch line.

Inspect the clutch cover and disc.

Clutch
Start
Switch
5.0 ± 0.5 mm (0.197 ± 0.020 in.)

6. CHECK CLUTCH START SYSTEM
(a) Check that the engine does not start when the clutch pedal
is released.
(b) Check that the engine starts when the clutch pedal is fully
depressed.
If necessary, replace the clutch start switch.
7. INSPECT CONTINUITY OF CLUTCH START SWITCH
Check the continuity between terminals when the switch is ON
and OFF.
Switch position Condition
ON (pushed) Continuity
OFF (free) No continuity


I couldn't include the pictures, but there are two adjustment points. The pedal height adjustment is at the top rear of the pedal and the rest is adjusted at the pushrod.

[ezshift5]

.......reminds me of the attention to detail seen on CVS-20 with a deck full of prop aircraft during the cold war..............best, ez

[CJS]

Jetfixer, you are the Man! Thanks a bunch!

By the way do you have any input on the "grainy" vibrational feeling in this clutch pedal? Just a few posts away from this one.

[Jetfixer]

My experience is, I would go after the throwout bearing. The way you describe the "grainy" feel is during the time that the bearing is fully loaded. I guess you could disconnect the clutch pedal from the pushrod to verify whether there's any abnormal "feel/sounds" from just pivoting the pedal unloaded in case there's corrosion at the pivot bolt. Also thats a lot easier than changing the throwout bearing. Also, IMHO, if you have to change the bearing, I would go with a complete clutch change. New bearing, disk, and pressure plate, and have the flywheel turned if you have any runout or see any small surface cracks. It's a lot of work and you don't want to have to go back in any time soon. Good Luck!

[CJS]

Update! I started running the car and clutch really hard with a lot of 6000 rpm stuff.

Hard to believe, but the clutch situation got better!

It is no problem now! ???????????