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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Short Circuit
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Short Circuit

Postby Guest » Thu Jan 09, 2003 11:05 am

Ferrrari_1299 wrote:That's a good idea, has anyone done that? If so how would I do it?

find a constant power source, such as your dome light power source, splice into it with one end of a wire, cut your power wire to your lighter, and attach your spliced wire to the wire you just cut, but on the side of the lighter. on the other cut side, be sure to tape it up with electrical tape, so you won't get any shorts. if that doesn't make sense, don't try it, have someone, who knows about that kind of stuff, help you.

i did that with my aux socket, but left my lighter to work with the acc. that way, you can have one constant power source and one that switches on and off with your car (for whatever reason, you might prefer it to be off with the car).
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Postby xyntax » Thu Jan 09, 2003 12:20 pm

Anonymous wrote:
Ferrrari_1299 wrote:That's a good idea, has anyone done that? If so how would I do it?

find a constant power source, such as your dome light power source, splice into it with one end of a wire, cut your power wire to your lighter, and attach your spliced wire to the wire you just cut, but on the side of the lighter. on the other cut side, be sure to tape it up with electrical tape, so you won't get any shorts. if that doesn't make sense, don't try it, have someone, who knows about that kind of stuff, help you.

i did that with my aux socket, but left my lighter to work with the acc. that way, you can have one constant power source and one that switches on and off with your car (for whatever reason, you might prefer it to be off with the car).


Yeah I guess that would work, but that wasnt my purpose. I was just being stupid trying to attach a current tester on the cig plug but accidentally touched the positive node to the negative of the cig plug while the negative node was clipped to it, and then *spark* blew the fuse :-?

I'm reluctant to splice any OEM installation coz I'm afraid that might compromise my warranty. My car is only a year old. I usually attach a wire to the designated fuse to get my power and at the same time get the protection from that fuse. I'll take pics of what I'm talking about.
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Postby Ferrari_1299 » Thu Jan 09, 2003 1:13 pm

Anonymous wrote:
Ferrrari_1299 wrote:That's a good idea, has anyone done that? If so how would I do it?

find a constant power source, such as your dome light power source, splice into it with one end of a wire, cut your power wire to your lighter, and attach your spliced wire to the wire you just cut, but on the side of the lighter. on the other cut side, be sure to tape it up with electrical tape, so you won't get any shorts. if that doesn't make sense, don't try it, have someone, who knows about that kind of stuff, help you.

i did that with my aux socket, but left my lighter to work with the acc. that way, you can have one constant power source and one that switches on and off with your car (for whatever reason, you might prefer it to be off with the car).


Where is the dome light power source located at.
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Postby xyntax » Thu Jan 09, 2003 2:54 pm

Ferrrari_1299 wrote:Where is the dome light power source located at.


I think it is in the fuse box located behind your secret coin box (between door and steering wheel).
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Postby Yanks0114 » Thu Jan 09, 2003 5:03 pm

I dont think the dome light would look because its controlled by the door plungers. Your cd player has a 12v constant and it will be even easier if you have an aftermarket stereo.
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Postby Guest » Fri Jan 10, 2003 10:09 am

yanks0114 wrote:I dont think the dome light would look because its controlled by the door plungers. Your cd player has a 12v constant and it will be even easier if you have an aftermarket stereo.


actually, the negative side of the dome light is controlled by the door plungers. the positive side is always hot.

Ferrrari_1299 wrote:Where is the dome light power source located at.


I spliced into it right before it went up the A-pillar on the driver's side. It was either a red wire, or a red wire with a white stripe. (the cd player 12v constant is a good idea, though, because it's a shorter routing.)
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Postby Guest » Fri Jan 10, 2003 10:22 am

Xyntax wrote:Yeah I guess that would work, but that wasnt my purpose. I was just being stupid trying to attach a current tester on the cig plug but accidentally touched the positive node to the negative of the cig plug while the negative node was clipped to it, and then *spark* blew the fuse :-?


i was thinking if you had an old cigarette lighter plug (like from an old cell phone that you no longer use, assuming the output of the plug is 12v), you could cut the wires after the plug part, then solder on some alligator clips, and use that as a miscallaneous power source. You can use the insulated red and black alligator clips to help prevent shorting, and to be extra safe, you could also wire in an inline fuse holder(with a really small amperage).
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Postby Guest » Fri Jan 10, 2003 2:33 pm

jerold wrote:
yanks0114 wrote:I dont think the dome light would look because its controlled by the door plungers. Your cd player has a 12v constant and it will be even easier if you have an aftermarket stereo.


actually, the negative side of the dome light is controlled by the door plungers. the positive side is always hot.


ATTN: Ferrrari_1299

I just looked at Bassthrive's link on how to wire up interior lighting. He said the red/white wire is the "switched" wire (although, he said it was the negative feed), which would be consistant with what yanks0114 said.

So basically, what i told you might be incorrect for your Solara (but it works on my Camry). If you have a multimeter, test everything out before actually splicing into everything.
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Postby Guest » Fri Jan 10, 2003 2:38 pm

sorry, i don't remember exactly, even though i did this only a couple of weeks ago. just thought of this. but the red with the white stripe is probably the "door switched" negative. The red (no white stripe) is probably the constant 12v. Verify with a multi-meter (or light tester) first.
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Postby krook » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:22 pm

Anonymous wrote:sorry, i don't remember exactly, even though i did this only a couple of weeks ago. just thought of this. but the red with the white stripe is probably the "door switched" negative. The red (no white stripe) is probably the constant 12v. Verify with a multi-meter (or light tester) first.


yep, that's right.

red with white stripe: negative door trigger
red: constant 12v
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