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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Dyno Results..
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Dyno Results..

Dyno Results..

Postby ChargedSolara » Tue Dec 23, 2003 9:07 pm

Hey guys: been a long time since i posted, i dynoed my car at ATP in fremont, CA and i produced 224.9 fwhp, and 215. something torque. looking at the other numbers this is typical, some of the mods that i have on my 99 solara, (AT) are:

TRD s/c 4psi
injen short ram
apexi safc II - (the guy said no tuning was necessary until further mods were installed...)
magnacor wires
denso iridium

any suggestions on where to go now? i believe some exhaust/headers/y pipe would free me up a bit, right?

and is it just me, but over here in Norcal its so cold...and my car is having problems lately, cranking in the morning. any ideas? thanks

Derek
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Postby indiglosolara » Tue Dec 23, 2003 9:08 pm

Do you have ur dyno paper... i would like to take a look at it...
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Postby Mudd » Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:50 pm

Exhaust will help, yah. Then you'll want to add a bunch of fuel and turn the boost up some. A fuel pump and injectors are probably a must, a fuel pressure regulator isn't a bad idea either. You can probably squeeze another 50 ponies or so safely out of that S/C.

From there, it's the blue bottle or an engine rebuild with a turbo kit.
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Postby Mole » Tue Dec 23, 2003 11:12 pm

you dont turn boost up. thats turbo. the only way to increase boost is by installing a smaller pulley. a higher rate fuel pump is not needed, however higher flow injectors may be considered.
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Postby cdssolara » Tue Dec 23, 2003 11:33 pm

Go for the exhaust mods first, as they'll give you some additional power at the boost you're at right now. There are a couple of headers out there now for our cars, JP Performance and Xerd. JP can also give you a catback exhaust system that complements the headers. Once you've done that, then up the boost on your SC with smaller pulleys. You'll want to get higher flow injectors at the same time. Too many of us have blown our knock sensors by increasing the boost without increasing the fuel flow.

There's some interesting information in a post about a high flow fuel pump in the Aftermarket section of these forums. It refers to a website for someone called Gadget, who's done a bunch of research about the fuel problem with the TRD SC. It's worth a read.
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Postby Mudd » Wed Dec 24, 2003 8:36 am

Yes, I know - I just changed pullies on my friend's Lightening about a week ago. We just call it turning up the boost.

If you have a big injector and a 90lph fuel pump (which the consensus is these cars have), you're going to need something when you start running out of pressure. I'm guessing an OEM pump from like a Tundra or something's a direct swap in. Forced induction 101. :)

TRDMole177 wrote:you dont turn boost up. thats turbo. the only way to increase boost is by installing a smaller pulley. a higher rate fuel pump is not needed, however higher flow injectors may be considered.
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Postby Yanks0114 » Wed Dec 24, 2003 2:35 pm

Mudd wrote:Yes, I know - I just changed pullies on my friend's Lightening about a week ago. We just call it turning up the boost.

If you have a big injector and a 90lph fuel pump (which the consensus is these cars have), you're going to need something when you start running out of pressure. I'm guessing an OEM pump from like a Tundra or something's a direct swap in. Forced induction 101. :)

TRDMole177 wrote:you dont turn boost up. thats turbo. the only way to increase boost is by installing a smaller pulley. a higher rate fuel pump is not needed, however higher flow injectors may be considered.


That pump is not a direct swap in. TRDMole has been around for a while and seen a lot of guys run higher boost. You do not need a higher flow fuel pump at 4psi, and it is not necessary even at 5.5psi.

Injectors do help a lot but a fuel pump should be last on the list
Catback Exhaust
Headers and y pipe
Smaller Pulley
Bigger injectors
then bigger fuel pump
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Postby Edgar22 » Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:40 pm

ummmm well... if you want the best performance increase per dollar, your best bet is to do a manual transmission swap. while you're at it, throw in an lsd... the best part about this mod is your car will still have the sleeper look, you won't lose gas mileage, and you'll be over a second faster on the quarter mile.
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Postby cdssolara » Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:14 pm

Edgar22 wrote:ummmm well... if you want the best performance increase per dollar, your best bet is to do a manual transmission swap. while you're at it, throw in an lsd... the best part about this mod is your car will still have the sleeper look, you won't lose gas mileage, and you'll be over a second faster on the quarter mile.


Swapping a manual for an auto is probably not a very cost effective means of getting more power. The swap itself is pretty expensive, unless you can do the work yourself. If you go that route, you'd probably be better off just selling the car and getting another one with a manual. However, if you're going to throw in an lsd, might as well get a lightened flywheel and upgraded clutch, along with a short throw shifter.
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Postby Yanks0114 » Wed Dec 24, 2003 8:31 pm

cdssolara wrote:
Edgar22 wrote:ummmm well... if you want the best performance increase per dollar, your best bet is to do a manual transmission swap. while you're at it, throw in an lsd... the best part about this mod is your car will still have the sleeper look, you won't lose gas mileage, and you'll be over a second faster on the quarter mile.


Swapping a manual for an auto is probably not a very cost effective means of getting more power. The swap itself is pretty expensive, unless you can do the work yourself. If you go that route, you'd probably be better off just selling the car and getting another one with a manual. However, if you're going to throw in an lsd, might as well get a lightened flywheel and upgraded clutch, along with a short throw shifter.


Agreed. Its probally the least cost effective per dollar mod.

If its really a concern, go with the level 10 upgrade options
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Postby JoeB » Thu Dec 25, 2003 5:14 am

I strongly disagree about the fuel pump. My car is completely different since Gadget installed the Boost-A-Pump, 318cc injectors and tuned it with the SS FTC-1. For those that haven't seen the thread on fuel pump, I couldn't find ANY drop in fuel pump replacement. The Boost-A-Pump increases the volume of your current pump. I gained a lot on the low-mid end.

According to Gadget, the 3.4L TRD supercharged suffered from a low RPM ping problem. I'm guessing that's why TRD elected to cut the boost on the low end until around 3600 RPM on the 3.0L application. With the proper amount of fuel flow, Gadget reconnected my supercharger in a manner that allowed boost all the time and doesn't ping at low RPM.

You can't just measure something like that on a DynoJet. Those dynos only measure at WOT and what you get is a peak number at top end. What you really want to do is increase the total area under the curve. by gaining on the low to mid end (where my car suffered badly) you increase the total power. So, I don't have dyno numbers to prove it but trust me, the but dyno doesn't lie :wink: .

I don't know the math but this can be figured out. Somewhere there is a formula to determine the flow rating of the required fuel pump for the target hp. Even with my old dyno of 242 fwhp, I can't believe a 90LPH pump would suffice. I also read that the selected pump should be able to deliver 20% more than the required fuel. -JoeB
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