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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - What the Sludge?
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

What the Sludge?

Postby DatSRBoi » Mon Oct 10, 2005 4:07 pm

SC V6 wrote:Anyone else have input on this? SHould I just change it before IS tore it?


Haha aww you dont trust me... Im just telling you what a guy at this RX7 shop do to his cars for his winter time... a 500hp RX7... weeeee I saw it today.. Its so hot..
[b][color=red]WARNING: MY SIGNATURE MAY CAUSE SEIZURES![/color][/b]
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Postby 2002greenhornet » Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:48 pm

SC V6 wrote:Anyone else have input on this? SHould I just change it before IS tore it?


I would if it were mine. Usually, there is advice on changing oil after a certain number of miles OR months, whichever comes first. Since it's easy to do, I'd err on the side of caution, 'specially with a ride like yours!
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Postby NeFaRiOuS_SLE » Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:48 pm

My neighbor said that pouring Auto Trans Fluid into the oil receptacle about 500 miles before you change the oil helps cleans out the engine (sure enough it did; first time I tried it in my first car, the 91 Buick Century, the oil was PURE black, but then again it was bought from an old lady and the car had 82,000 miles on it; radiator was half empty)
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Postby SC V6 » Tue Oct 11, 2005 6:19 am

the dealer says every 3000 or 3 months....
Parting out my car!!! great upgrades for sale!
http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php?t=34449

Denso IK22's (6), SWAP PARTS! and more!!!
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Postby Sap Z » Tue Oct 11, 2005 9:07 am

mmmmmmmm...........chocolate fudge.............
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Postby JAYDEE23 » Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:48 am

so is there a relatively easy "fix" for this that can be done at home?

how about a way to determine if your car has this problem or will have it should you skimp on oil changes?

doesnt seem like clearing a path or increasing the hole dia. to the pvc would be THAT hard?

my oil has always been just about as clean coming out as going in..this mean i am safe??
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Postby SPF 0 » Sat Oct 15, 2005 5:16 pm

From what I've read, so long as you can show semi-regular oil changes, Toyota will extend an unwritten warranty for this issue. Which IMHO is yet another reason to take it to the dealer for oil changes (having a record and all, you see).
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Postby noodlerooney » Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:52 am

I really don't think you should alter the PCV diameter, more or less crankcase ventilation than designed for is not good. If you have sludge, Auto-Rx may be your answer (see bobistheoilguy), many people have had good results with it. If you don't have sludge, regular oil change intervals (OCI) is the answer. Better yet, synthetic oil. Mobil1 is what I use, a true synthetic and readily available, $20/5qt at Wal-Mart, only the best for my baby. My wife says I collect oil, she's right, I have quite a collection.
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Postby Sentinel » Wed Oct 19, 2005 7:31 am

Does anyone here have any experience with Auto-Rx? I have used Marvel Mystery oil to clean out noisy tappets on another car... but with the 1mz-fe sludging problem, and 130k, I am somewhat interested... just not interested enough to be the test subject.
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Postby LatinDragonXJC » Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:54 pm

The actual cause of the problem is an inability of the engine's crankcase ventilation system (PCV) to move the normal gases from the engine. When these gases stay longer in an hot engine it allows deposits to form on the metal parts of the engine. When enough deposits are present "Sludge" is formed. In my opinion the reduced flow of the PCV is related to the vehicle emissions. This presents a problem since to correct it may require Toyota to recertify the engines, come up with a solution acceptable to the EPA and then they still have to repair or assist in repairing the affected engines. The costs would be staggering but ignoring the problem, in so many of their best selling vehicles, may be worse in the long run. In the various articles I've listed below, if you want, you will learn more about the cause an effect.


More info @ http://yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html
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Postby noodlerooney » Fri Oct 21, 2005 5:51 am

I go 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first, with Mobil1 synthetic(not the extended type) and WIX oil filter, I know, overkilll. You can use this interval with dino and be OK. I've read that you can go 5000 miles or 6 months with no worries with regular synthetic, but I'm wary of the oil filter bypassing due to restriction by trapped contaminates. Inspect PCV valve every 15K miles, replace if necessary. No worries about sludge. If you do your own oil changes, you can get synthetic oil and a WIX filter for the cost of having it done with dino. No one touches my car unless absolutely necessary! Remember, motor oil is your engines lifeblood, take care of it. I am constantly amazed to see people driving $50K cars and can't tell you the last time they had their oil/filter changed and what type of oil was used, or even the last time they checked the level. I've even had some tell me they have it done when they see the oil change light come on (low oil pressure warning light), unbelieveable!!! This sucker comes on at about 4psi!!! Damage already done. Oh well, it's likely a leased car, let the next sucker worry about it when the engine dies. Just rubs me the wrong way.
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Postby JAYDEE23 » Fri Oct 21, 2005 1:50 pm

i use regular mobile 1 full synth and change every 5k..oil is as clean coming out as going in and i have no sludge at all.

also i always use the 10-15 dollar filters rather than the 2.99 jobs..

switch boxes if your too cheap lol :wink:
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