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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Clutch Replacement
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

Clutch Replacement

Clutch Replacement

Postby jakdaddy » Fri Sep 09, 2011 12:32 pm

Hello, New to the forum, forgive me if this has been covered before (couldn't find it in a search). Recently had the clutch replaced in my 1999 solara, se, v6, 140k. When I got it back the clutch operates near the bottom of the pedal (near the floor). There is also occasional shudder / vibration when leaving. If someone gets in to drive it they often stall it out, until they get the feel of it. The mechanic says that because it is a hyd. system there is no adjustment to put the clutch action more in the mid range of the pedal (where most cars are). I need to know if anyone has heard / experienced the same thing, or is this guy bs'ing me. I don't see a lot of dis-assembly evidence, and I wish there was a positive way I could tell if the job was done, or did he just adjust the old clutch to give it some more life (shouldn't have went with low bidder). Thanks in advance for your help. -Dave
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby chriscarter » Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:10 am

To determine if you were the victim of mechanical malpractice or scammery, check your bill. You should have been charged for a clutch pressure plate, disc, and release bearing. There should also be a charge for gear oil, since it must be refilled after the axles are removed and gearbox taken out.

If your initial symptom was clutch slippage (engine revving, but power not getting to the drive wheels), then an unscrupulous mechanic could have merely loosened the adjustment where the clutch pedal pushrod enters the back of the clutch master cylinder. Even if the clutch components have been replaced, it sounds like this is the area where you should start. Unless the wrong release bearing was installed, it sounds like a hydraulic problem when the clutch engages way too low.

In terms of checking for actual disassembly, look for wrench and/or socket marks on the dirt and grime that is on that hardware after 140K miles. Also, pop off your hubcaps or wheel center caps and see if the axle-to-hub nuts have been removed. New cotter pins should be used every time. If you write back with the details listed on your bill, I may be able to give you some insight.
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby TRD_Sloara » Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:43 am

Let me guess, total repair came close to $1,000? I shudder at the thought of ever having a shop replace a clutch for me *knocks on wood* They tried charging my aunt $2500 for a new transmission when her clutch went bad, so that they could pocket the $1500. I have a friend of a friend who replaces Honda clutches for $150, takes him 2-3 hours with no lift.
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby ftw » Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:46 am

Did the shop use a Toyota release bearing? I had that problem after installing a new clutch and a new Toyota release bearing fixed it, but not before the shop replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder and hydraulic line trying to fix the problem.
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby kenny6683 » Thu Sep 15, 2011 6:34 am

probably not bleeding properly
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