clutch going bad?

[pro956]

Hey guys, my clutch seems to be going bad. While in gear and during acceleration, rpms go flying and power doesn't get to the wheels. From what I've read it must be my clutch!

Money is tight right now, does anyone know the best place for me to get a cheap clutch? Can any locals with experience replace my clutch for me? Just let me know how much to pay you. I've never been to a mechanic as I've been able to fix most of my problems w/this forums help-- and I wouldn't know who to trust (or if I could afford them).

Thanks! If you can help, send me a PM or whatever and I will send you my e-mail address.

I'm in MD.

[pro956]

or does anyone know anybody that can help me out?

[chriscarter]

Yes, you need a clutch but you may be able to get it to drive to a shop rather than tow it. Go under the dash and find the pushrod between the clutch pedal and the back (interior) of the clutch master cylinder. The pushrod should thread into a fork that attaches it to the pedal assy. There should also be a 12mm jamnut that keeps the pushrod in position. Looosen the jamnut a bit and shorten (thread the pushrod into the pedal fork - clockwise if you were looking back at it from the firewall) the overall length of the pushrod. Before adjustment, it will probably be fully tight (no play whatsoever). Shorten that pushrod until you get maybe 1/8" play on the rod.

Again, you STILL need a clutch, but this may save you smoking the flywheel too. Either way, drive very slowly and try to prevent that engine from winding up without transmitting power to the gearbox.

As for a shop referral - talk to your friends and coworkers who drive import cars. See who they trust. You don't have to go to Toyota, but I strongly advise going to an import specialist.

[pro956]

Yes, you need a clutch but you may be able to get it to drive to a shop rather than tow it. Go under the dash and find the pushrod between the clutch pedal and the back (interior) of the clutch master cylinder. The pushrod should thread into a fork that attaches it to the pedal assy. There should also be a 12mm jamnut that keeps the pushrod in position. Looosen the jamnut a bit and shorten (thread the pushrod into the pedal fork - clockwise if you were looking back at it from the firewall) the overall length of the pushrod. Before adjustment, it will probably be fully tight (no play whatsoever). Shorten that pushrod until you get maybe 1/8" play on the rod.

Again, you STILL need a clutch, but this may save you smoking the flywheel too. Either way, drive very slowly and try to prevent that engine from winding up without transmitting power to the gearbox.

As for a shop referral - talk to your friends and coworkers who drive import cars. See who they trust. You don't have to go to Toyota, but I strongly advise going to an import specialist.

Thanks Chris. I will try that out once I figure out where to go.

[GzNutz]

For parts contact Gabe.

http://www.facebook.com/GLPMotorsports?sk=wall#!/GLPMotorsports?sk=info

[pro956]

thanks guys.
i think i'm going to have to take this to a mechanic.

should i have the mechanic do anything while he's replacing the clutch?

i figure i will save a few bucks on labor if he already has everything taken apart.
i'm at around 60k and due for some maintenance.
thanks!

[chriscarter]

Just be sure that the shop is an import specialist familiar with Toyotas. Three basic parts should be replaced: Clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing. Good idea to replace pilot bearing while you're in there. Inspect the flywheel for hot spots caused by slippage. They will cause premature clutch chatter. Sometimes a hot flywheel can be turned (resurfaced), sometimes they have to be replaced (expensive part, minimal labor once you're in there). Lube input shaft splines and release arm pivots with high temp (maybe lithium) grease. If you really want to upgrade, go to Wal-Mart (cheaper) or an auto parts store (usually more expensive) and get about 3 qts of synthetic 75W90 gear oil (NOT ATF) for the shop to refill your gearbox when reassembling. Synthetics dissapate heat better and relieve friction better than standard gear oil.

[ThurzNite]

Just be sure that the shop is an import specialist familiar with Toyotas. Three basic parts should be replaced: Clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing. Good idea to replace pilot bearing while you're in there. Inspect the flywheel for hot spots caused by slippage. They will cause premature clutch chatter. Sometimes a hot flywheel can be turned (resurfaced), sometimes they have to be replaced (expensive part, minimal labor once you're in there). Lube input shaft splines and release arm pivots with high temp (maybe lithium) grease. If you really want to upgrade, go to Wal-Mart (cheaper) or an auto parts store (usually more expensive) and get about 3 qts of synthetic 75W90 gear oil (NOT ATF) for the shop to refill your gearbox when reassembling. Synthetics dissapate heat better and relieve friction better than standard gear oil.

^ I would print this out and show it to the mechanic

Dr J