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dose that sub have its own amp in the box too? and did you have a sub control on your factory HU?

The sub amp is outside the box but next to it. And the factory HU had very basic sub controls (just a bass setting.) My aftermarket HU has more control over the sub.

I should add, the reason the drop tops have the sub is to cover up the road noise. It's a very weak one, only 14 watts.

Thanks Gangis for the nice write-up and the pictures. I really appreciate it.

My pleasure. Let me know how it works for you.

Gangis wrote:The sub amp is outside the box but next to it. And the factory HU had very basic sub controls (just a bass setting.) My aftermarket HU has more control over the sub.

I should add, the reason the drop tops have the sub is to cover up the road noise. It's a very weak one, only 14 watts.

Not to mention the hardtops usually have 6X9 speakers to make up for low-end that I won't really call bass, whereas convertibles have 5 1/2" speakers all around and therefore arising the need for a sub in OEM standards.

Thanks for that info. Ultimately I'd like to improve the audio system in my car but I have no idea where to begin. I don't need a powerful system, just something that has plenty of bass yet allow all hearing passengers to be able to enjoy the music. Would anyone be willing to help me? Thanks!

Sorry for the bump, but is anyone willing to help?

Can't help just yet but wanted to say thanks. My mom has a drop top and just moved here from Cali. Told me two days ago that her stero is making a funny noise and now I might have an idea what it is! Thanks again. I'll let you know if I do anything to hers.

Well, since it was my mom's car and not a true audiofile's I got a tube of silicone and redid the seal around the sub and reattached the ring with a small bead of silicone and turned it upside down and put a case of drinks on it to press it down and it turned out very nice. Not too bad for a $5 fix.

Thanks for the information on how to get at it.

That's a good idea! I'll buy a tube of black silicone tomorrow. Thanks!

I finally got around to attacking the sub-woofer today. The rear seat turned out to be a bigger issue because of 3 screws that weren't mentioned. These 3 screws are phillips head and pass thru the top plastic trim that runs just above and behind the seatback (the seat belts pass thru it on each end). The screws are almost impossible to see or feel, but after literally pulling one of them thru the plastic, I figured out what I needed to do. In the pictures posted by Gangis, you can see the 3 holes in the top trim where the screws go. I didn't bother to reinstall those particular screws when I put it back together. I expect I'll be back in there soon. All I did today was remove the sub - I left the enclosure in there for now. My speaker rattled like crazy, but it appears to be intact and in good shape.

For those of you that just want to stop the rattling, but not necessarily remove or replace the subwoofer, I think you can just use a platic "rivet remover" tool to get the boot fabric open. At about the same level as the 2 lower nuts securing the seat back, should be a white plastic connector that can be disconnected from the sub-woofer. There is another "black box" down there also that is mounted horizontally on the driver's side. Don't disconnect anything from that box. This is simply a 2 conductor wiring harness that is held in place to the metal structure by a "snap-in" rivet affair.

Because I was taking the seat out, and I'm kind of large (260lbs), I elected to do this with the top down. At some point you will have to put the top back up to be able to work in the "boot" area.