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So today is sunday, friday I finished building my custom sub box for 2 12" Kenwood 1200 watt subs. I was pushing them with an 1800 watt Kenwood amp with a Base Excursion test (its a sound track with all the highs and lows) and amp cut off. The amp has 2 fuses that are ok and the inline fuse to the battery looks ok. Any suggestions to look into or did I fry my amp.

Is the "protect" light on (on the amp)?

Change the fuse under the hood....often times the fuse will look good, but it burns at the ends that you cant see.

Make sure that the amp turns on when the system is on....you'll know if its on because its fans will kick in.

The protect light doesnt come on but I took a power tester and the power wire from the engine didn't have power coming to it. T
he remote turn on wire had power but that was expected. No power was really going to the amp, fans werent on or any lights so I will look into the fuse in the engine bay.

Ok sounds good man....I suppose that you should check your ground on the amplifier as well...if its not SOLID, then you'll stress the amp out, and you'll be blowing fuses.

Pogs wrote:So today is sunday, friday I finished building my custom sub box for 2 12" Kenwood 1200 watt subs. I was pushing them with an 1800 watt Kenwood amp with a Base Excursion test (its a sound track with all the highs and lows) and amp cut off. The amp has 2 fuses that are ok and the inline fuse to the battery looks ok. Any suggestions to look into or did I fry my amp.

find the last known source of power. If it's not at the amp, check between there and the battery....which really only leaves you with 3 things. The inline fuse, the connection at the battery or the cable itself is bad.

maybe you need a power cycle batter to produce enough power for that many wattage or the remote power wire that runs from headunit to the amp might be loose...that would be my best guess

I had a Kenwood 1800 amp and I do know when it starts flowing too much power it will shut it self off. If that helps at all. As far as no power getting there, make SURE your turn on lead is SOLID as well as your ground point and 12V lead for the amp. Then run a test light thru your fuses and see what comes up.

-Jake

TLMNICK wrote:Is the "protect" light on (on the amp)?

Change the fuse under the hood....often times the fuse will look good, but it burns at the ends that you cant see.

Make sure that the amp turns on when the system is on....you'll know if its on because its fans will kick in.

Thanks for everyone that answered. I got around to looking into this more seriously and the problem was the in line fuse under the hood. The fuse looked perfectly fine but when I changed it out all my problems were solved. TLMNICK you hit it right on the button