Upgrading my '02 SLE's audio (I'm a beginner)

[icefire3526]

Ok so I'm 16 and I bought this car for a really good deal, its my first car. I have never done any of this stuff before so please bare with my stupid questions.

The car is a 2002 Solara SLE with JBL audio system, I am not complaining about the cars current audio I just want a bit more kick. Ive almost funny decided to but this stereo because i would get a GPS anyways and this is much cheaper then getting both a new GPS and stereo and it looks nice.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020NX409/C ... NX409.html


So I like the JBL speakers and I'm told they are really good and there is no reason to replace them. But i want to add a sub and I was looking at this 12" x 2 enclosure.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070BP1204/Dual-BP1204.html


So I would put that in my trunk but what i dont really get is if the subs are in the trunk pointing away from me when im driving isnt it a waste?? probably not but I dont get it.

I AM LOST when it comes to what amp to chose and WTF it even does. If I instal an amp will it make all the speakers in the car sound better or just power the sub?
Also, when i instal the sub will the lower frequencies stop coming out of the JBLs that are already in the car and be diverted to the sub? I think that would be ideal because then I can turn up the JBLs without worrying about blowing the rear 6x9" speakers because of the bass.

It would be great if you guys could tell me like how much power I need and whatnot so I can choose an amp that would work well but fits my car's style.

And what about equalizers, crossovers, sound processors and line drivers..WTH are they for and do I need them??

And maybe even what all the other crap means, like ohms and dual channel and stuff...but i could prolly find that in another thread.


I know this is a lot to ask at once but please help a beginner who wants to get into the hobby.

Thanks SOO much.
- Ryan

[MisterTedster]

Wow, that's quite a mouthful. Umm, wow where do I start?

Going active means that you're separating the range of frequencies that reach each speaker, so that each speaker can work within its ideal frequency range. This is done using a crossover, either external or built-in to the head unit. By using an active crossover, you are separating the frequency ranges before it hits the amplifier. In contrast, a passive crossover separates the frequency after the amplifier. Passive has the disadvantage that it operates using a series of resistors that react differently to different frequencies. Hence the frequencies that are separated can 'wander' which makes for a sound stage that is not ideal. An example would be separating your frequencies so that only frequencies from 20Hz to 80Hz would reach your subwoofers. Then 80Hz to 2.5kHz would reach your 6.5" mids, and 2.5kHz and above would reach your tweeters.

Time alignment takes into account the difference in the distance you are from each of your speakers due to your seating position. It will basically delay the signal to each speaker as necessary so the exact same sound reaches your ears from all directions, making for a much 'fuller' sound stage.

These two may not seem like much, but they do WORLDS for your sound quality. Unfortunately, most DVD double DIN head units do not offer these capabilities, in which case you would need external devices to achieve optimal sound quality. However, with an increasing number of devices, you increase the complication of your install, as well as introduce new potential sources of noise.

Hence, the best option, if you're looking for the best sound quality is to get a head unit with these features built-in. Some headunits to note, that are reasonably priced, are the Alpine 9887 and the Pioneer deh-880prs.

There are a few other features that also help to improve sound quality also. High-voltage pre-outs are absolutely essential. I stay away from any head unit that has less than 4V for the preouts. Why? By using a higher voltage pre-out, the signal reaching the amplifier is cleaner since you will not have to turn it up as high. Many people do not realize that turning the volume up to high will result in distortion due to the head unit, not the amplifier. Also, it allows you to lower the gains on the amplifier, hence lowering the noise floor.

If you are planning to run a full set of speakers and subs, get a headunit that has 5 or 6 preouts, if you want to avoid having to use an external crossover. There are a couple units that have 8 preouts, but they can be VERY pricey.

There is also the issue of equalization. Generally you will get 7 points of equalization from a head unit. Even higher-end head units do not offer many more points of equalization. I personally use an external unit that has 30 points of equalization.

With all these devices, you definitely have to be willing to experiment with different frequencies and different crossover points. It can be a long process as each adjustment you make will take you about a week or so to assess whether or not you like it. But once you do achieve the sound you like, you will be overwhelmingly satisfied.

Again, it's all about how good you want your sound to be, and how much time and money you're willing to invest.

Installation is 90% of the equation. The other 10% is the quality of all your audio components.

[MisterTedster]

But wait there's more! So you will only be able to separate frequencies in one of a few ways: through your headunit, passive crossovers, active crossovers, or through your amplifier. Which now brings us to the amplifier and speaker discussion.

Firstly, anyone who said that the JBL speakers are good are obviously not that into car audio. While JBL does make a couple of decent aftermarket speakers, those were spared from our 'laras.

Now there are a couple of basics to consider with speakers. Firstly the size. They're 6.5" in the front and 6x9 in the rear. With that said, don't worry about switching out the rears if they're not blown, a true SQ car doesn't use the rear for anything more than filler, and more often than not, they shouldn't be used.

Secondly, do you want coaxials or components? Coaxials have the tweeters mounted right onto the speaker whereas components have a separate woofer and tweeter. Generally components are the way to go, especially since our lara's have a mounting spot for a separate tweeter anyway. Component speakers will come with passive crossovers to separate the frequencies for you.

Now we are discussing amplifiers. The basic set-up for amplifiers is a 4-channel amplifier for the speakers and a monoblock (1 channel) for subwoofers. Now if you're running active, which I explained above, a 4-channel amplifier will only be able to power your front components. However, if you decide to run passive, meaning that you're using the passive crossover that is included with a component set, you can run all your speakers with the 4-channel amp.

You will hear some talk about classes of amplifiers. Class A/B are the most common, and you will run into Class D for your monoblock amplifier. There are also other less common ones such as Class T and G, but don't worry about those. Class D are more efficient than A/B, hence they are better for high-power applications, especially since our solaras have a wimpy 80 amp alternator. What brands to go for? Well that depends on your budget. If you tell me your budget, I can make a few recommendations.

[MisterTedster]

Nowwww we move on to subwoofers. Rear firing subwoofers will allow the subs to move the air that's in your trunk. If you remember high school physics, sound is nothing more than vibrations in the air perceived by our ears via the vibration of the tympanic membrane. So, by rear-firing the subs, there will be no loss in volume, and in most cases, will increase volume, which is why you see most people rear-firing their subs. A good place to start would be 12" subwoofers. They provide the best balance of loudness and control. I can make recommendation, but again, that depends on your budget.

A few things to consider about subs:
1. Their impedance. The amplifier powering them must be able to handle the impedance load. For example, if you have two 4-ohm subwoofers, then you will wire them in parallel to achieve 2 ohms, which your amplifier must be able to handle (most can).

2. How much power are you looking for? I can tell you right now that for daily listening, you don't need more than 200-400 watts. In most cases, a single subwoofer is more than sufficient.

3. Enclosures. You would ideally choose an enclosure that has an internal volume that suits your chosen subwoofer. For example, 12" Alpine Type-R's like 1 cu. ft. enclosure. Manufacturers will give you a range of enclosure sizes that is ideal for a particular sub.

[MisterTedster]

Finally we come to the discussion of installation on miscellaneous necessities.

Firstly, do a big 3 upgrade. This means that you run a large gauge wire, like 1/0 gauge, from the positive of your alternator to the positive on the battery terminal. The negative of the battery terminal will be wired to the chassis, and the engine block to the same spot on the chassis.

You will also need wire for your amplifiers. Ideally, you would run 1/0 gauge wire from your battery terminal positive to a distribution block that will likely output into two 4 gauge wires, where they then connect to your amplifiers. The negative on the amplifiers will be connected to a nearby spot on the body of the car itself. Keep in mind, you need to fuse the positive wire with something like 150A fuse.

You will need a remote wire also. This is basically a small wire (18 gauge maybe) that runs from your headunit to each of your amplifiers. It just runs a small current telling your amplifiers to turn on.

Installation of all your speakers is the key to great sound. Firstly, put sound deadening on your doors, seal the service hole and weigh down the edges of your 6.5" woofers with an mdf baffle and possibly even non-hardening modelling clay. Installation is not difficult, and any one of us who knows car audio can walk you through it.

That's all I have to say, someone make this a sticky or something.

[icefire3526]

Thank you very very much for that well thought out and informative answer! This will definately help me!!!!

[stringbean]

Wow, Tedster,i agree that should be a stick in car audio, name it car audio 101 upgrade lol

i also have some things to say,

so in short bass is none directional and can be placed anywhere so it being in the trunk is fine (shortened version) lol

also the clarion deck is ok, ive used it in store and is ok, what they dont tell you is that you have to buy a like 120$ GPS module to plug into the deck, id go with a higher end clarion or JVC, alpine or something like that.

also the dual subs are the greatest, dual is like a wal-mart brand now, they use t be decent, but i personally would recommend them. Also one key thing it says is foam surrounds on the subs, foam is ok but wont last you as long as rubber, most subs are hight grade rubber surrounds.

Tedster and i could recommend probably an entire system to you for possibly any price range, the more expensive the better sounding, longevity and quality you'll get. though the systems would be totally different because we both possibly like different music, and have different listening taste.

anyways shoot us a pm, or at least me if you have any other questions, i can recommend some great stuff. but its all personal preference right!

enjoy!

[99BlackSandv6]

Holy Crap! I'm gonna have to wait for m day off to read this thread. Ted...wow.

[gasolara2002]

O wow. This is alot to read but the best system don't have to be expensive. The JBL speakers are quite good for factory speakers. I just say you need a good quality headunit, a reliable amp, a subwoofer crossover to bring out the bass, bass removers for the door speakers so no bass goes to the door speakers to preserve them, a capacitor so your lights won't dim too bad, and your will need dynomat lining to lessen the rattles. You will be set with all of those core accessories. I think people have their own preferences on sound type i like to hear the words and the bass clearly at high volumes. I don't too much do tweeters because all i hear is tick tick tick. Good luck on your audio project. Nice unit to start off with too.

[gasolara2002]

O yea when you can fit 2 15's in the trunk or 3'12's with the right box and still have some actual usable truck space and still have very good sound.