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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Wideband O2 Sensor tuning & Knock probs.
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Wideband O2 Sensor tuning & Knock probs.

Wideband O2 Sensor tuning & Knock probs.

Postby 808Camry » Tue Jan 06, 2004 1:19 am

Ever since I had my SC installed with the stock pulley, I've always run lean with an Injen Intake, I get the CEL code bank 1 and bank 2 too lean. I never had knock sensor releated probs and I ripped the SC for the past few months. I recently tried reseting my ECU, by taking off my negative on the battery for 30 minutes and reconnected it with some minor SAFC II adjustments already made. I was hoping that the ECU would relearn the new fuel map with the corrections. No luck, I was still running lean with the CEL codes popping up. I then tried to jack up most of the settings to 17-19% correction, except for the higher RPMs where it was 3-0%. I don't get the CEL code with bank 1 & too lean. But I then got a knock sensor trip twice when I punched the car to redline. My bank 2 sensor is not blown but tripped only those two times. If I keep it below 4K and drive like a sane adult I get no probs. Car still pulls fine.

Okay now to my question, there's a guy here locally who can tune my cars SAFC II with a wideband O2 sensor. All my settings are just a guess using my A/F gauge which doesn't bounce it just stays in once place at certain RPMs and if I punch it it jumps to rich. If I let off the gas it goes to ULTRA lean. Then if I apply some throttle to cruise it goes to Stoich. Weird yes... Any thoughts on what I can do and if the Wideband tuning would be good and help solve my probs? This is not at a shop just a guy whose done tuning with AFCs for guys with turbos and such. Plus I know dyno tuning is very hard on engines would tuning with a FJO wideband be as hard and would it trip my knock sensors?


The sickest thing is I'm still on the stock pulley...
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Postby JoeB » Tue Jan 06, 2004 6:56 am

Ron, I can't explain it but copy your post into an email and send it to Gadget. I'm sure he can explain it to you and tell you what you need. My car is running SO much better now with the fuel system upgrades that he did, night and day difference. One thing I'd be worried about is, from reading other people's posts, it sounds like once you've tripped the knock sensors the first time, they weaken and trip very easy after that. I'm not saying they are bad, I hope not $$. Also, in the s/c install, there is an existing bolt that needs to be cut off near the belt. If not cut off, this bolt can hit metal and trick the knock sensor.

As for the wide-band tuning, I think it is a MUST. It's pretty well known that most people don't run into problems running the stock 4psi pulley but when you think about it, you've changed the engine's mixture. You are now giving it much more air than it was designed to get. Of course the ECU can see the additional air signalled from the MAF but my guess is it can't quite bring the fuel adjustment to optimum. When you go to a smaller pulley (understanding you didn't) it exagerates the problem and now is outside the engine's acceptable range. The S-AFC is a good device for simply adjusting the fuel mixture beyond what the ECU can handle but the Split Second FTC1 is really needed for the big picture as it is able to pull timing also. -JoeB
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Postby 808Camry » Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:52 am

Which bolt is it that needs to be cut. Thanks for the advice, I'm just waiting on Gadgets kit package price to come out.

So the wideband O2 tuning should not trip the knock sensors again or blow them? Should I wait for the Gadget upgrades first or just tune it first, the tuning is cheap since it's just some guy and not a shop.
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Postby Yanks0114 » Tue Jan 06, 2004 1:19 pm

One part of the problem is that during normal driving your car relies on the signals from the o2 sensor and can correct for the addition air flow from the SC. Under WOT (80% throttle or above) the car must rely on the predefined fuel map because it can not correct fast enough. This is where the S-AFC comes in and why proper settings are crucial.

Good Luck
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Postby PureNocence » Tue Jan 06, 2004 1:27 pm

Ron, let me know when Gadget gets back to you on pricing. I wanna get my SAFC tuned too.

Thanks
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Postby cdssolara » Tue Jan 06, 2004 3:39 pm

Keep in mind what JoeB said above. Gadget's kit is dependent on the Split Second unit to control fuel and timing. It will end up replacing your S-AFC. I don't know what he will charge for the Solara /Camry kit, but for reference, I think his 4Runner kit was between $800 and $900. This includes the SS unit.
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Postby krook » Tue Jan 06, 2004 5:07 pm

PureNocence wrote:Ron, let me know when Gadget gets back to you on pricing. I wanna get my SAFC tuned too.

Thanks

when'd you get a S-AFC??? Ron, sorry to hear about that man. lemme know how that goes. i STILL didn't tune my S-AFCII and now, if you haven't heard the latest news, i don't have it wired inline with my air flow meter wire anymore since it would shut my car off as soon as i start it.
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Postby JoeB » Wed Jan 07, 2004 7:32 am

808Camry wrote:Which bolt is it that needs to be cut. Thanks for the advice, I'm just waiting on Gadgets kit package price to come out.

So the wideband O2 tuning should not trip the knock sensors again or blow them? Should I wait for the Gadget upgrades first or just tune it first, the tuning is cheap since it's just some guy and not a shop.

Ron, I can't say how every tuner would work but the guy that did the dyno tuning on my car did it on the dyno at WOT. Wide-band tuning should be done accross the entire range not only at WOT. It is possible if he doesn't have it close before he is getting a read on the high end it will trip the sensor again. Especially if my suspision is correct that these sensors weaken after the first trip.

The good news is, Gadget did all that experimental stuff on my car and has a good map already. Of course, yes, that means a SS FTC1 rather than S-AFC. You should contact Gadget. Although he might not have a price listed on his web site, I'm sure he could hook you up.

As for the bolt that should be cut, it is in the Supplement SC-AVA-002-D, SC-CAM-002-D, SC-SOL-002-D dated 09/05/01 on page 4 of 7. It gives these instructions along with a picture.
To provide clearance for the drive plates, you will need to remove the end of the water pump-housing stud. Leave the nut in place and remove approximately 1/4" of the stud (see picture at right).

The bolt (or stud) hits the plates that go around the belt with vibration and movement. It confuses the knock sensors. The picture shows using a hack-saw to trim the bolt off flush with the end of the nut it goes through. If you don't have this supplement and need the picture, I can email it to you. Hopefully that is why your sensor is tripping. Let me know if I can help. -JoeB
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Postby 808Camry » Wed Jan 07, 2004 11:25 am

I emailed him so I'm just waiting for a reply now. Thanks for all of your help Joe!
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Postby PureNocence » Wed Jan 07, 2004 11:57 am

krooked Solara wrote:when'd you get a S-AFC???


ahhhh duh...I see how much you love me, don't even pay attention damn you :cry: lol I got it a while back, not a II though, just a regular SAFC.
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Postby krook » Wed Jan 07, 2004 2:45 pm

PureNocence wrote:
krooked Solara wrote:when'd you get a S-AFC???


ahhhh duh...I see how much you love me, don't even pay attention damn you :cry: lol I got it a while back, not a II though, just a regular SAFC.

oh. . . OH! yeah. um. i 'member. that's right. that S-AFC. :wink: :lol:
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