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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Adding performance parts
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Adding performance parts

Adding performance parts

Postby syn48 » Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:06 am

I got a 99 solara sle a/t v6 I know I should have a manuel to be putting in performance parts but for the price of the car I couldnt pass it up anyone got any suggestions on what to put in Im not lookin to go crazy with a supercharger or anything cause it would just be a waste with automatic but I was looking more for ecu chips or would that be a waste of money and possibly screw my car up.
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Postby lilm » Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:14 am

you think the s/c would be a waste but want to get a "ecu chip"..........Just so you know one of the most powerful Solaras was a auto. And Tony the tigers camry is a auto
[quote="PhreakdOut"]Nice Jeff. I can't even get fat chicks to pose with my cars. [/quote]
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Postby Midias » Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:32 am

^^

You auto guys are so touchy follow the link below and start saving and dont buy ebay chips or intakes

http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?t=37723
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Postby lilm » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:10 pm

im no auto :drinking: :drinking: :drinking:
[quote="PhreakdOut"]Nice Jeff. I can't even get fat chicks to pose with my cars. [/quote]
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Postby Mr_Chunkz » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:16 pm

I am and i certainly dont think my supercharger is a waste :o


to each their own i suppose :lol:
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Postby Chinky420 » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:43 pm

follow the link in midias' post.

don't buy an ebay intake....buy the CP-e (or the injen if you want to save money)

the exhaust side of the engine is the weaker side (as opposed to the intake side)

for starters, since you just got your car, you should:
1) change the spark plugs/wires
2) change the oil (if it wasn't changed for the buyer)
3) check other fluids (i.e. transmission, brake, etc)
4) clean out your throttle body (with TB cleaner, check the tutorial section)
this will get you a little personal time with your car, and will give you an idea of how she is running.

cheap upgrades include:
groung wire kit (either homemade or off ebay, should cost less than $50)
intake (injen costs less than $200)
rear sway bar (PM reggie, username: NVD1S i think...he works for toyota in st. louis and get them for like, $150).

don't worry about an ECU upgrade/chip. the only time you're going to need to worry about that is when/if you go supercharged/turbo'd with a buttload of boost (in which case, jet will reprogram your ecu chip, but it's like >400 dollars, i think). a previous member had his chip reprogrammed, but only after he had dropped like, over $10,000 into his solara (silverlicious).

when it comes down to it, it's costly to modify a solara.....we don't drive your typical vanilla flavored civics (of which there's a SH!TLOAD of aftermarket support), so as a result, we have to pay extra for quality products. if you want to be able to drop 40 for an intake, and then 150 for an exhaust, and another 120 for headers...then buy a honda. otherwise, be prepared to invest some serious cash.

and don't knock the supercharger. it's the cheapest/safest way to add >40 whp at once. NO2 may be cheaper, but the odds of blowing up your engine go up exponentially. turbo kits are not around for the 1mz (v6), so if you wanted to boost that way, it's going to cost more than a s/c setup (plus you would probably have to build up the internals to run more than 6psi anyway...and 6psi on a turbo is almost a waste).


if you're really serious about spending money upgrading your solara to go fast (i.e. track aspirations), then you're gonna want to do a manual trans swap, get the jpp full exhaust system, a supercharger, an upgraded supercharger pulley, all suspension upgrades (struts, springs, sway bars), the CP-e intake, and also the support work for the supercharger (upgraded engine internals, upgrade 190lph walbro fuel pump, bigger fuel injectors).....sounds expensive? yeah, it is.
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Postby GreenSolara01 » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:31 am

lilm wrote:you think the s/c would be a waste but want to get a "ecu chip"..........Just so you know one of the most powerful Solaras was a auto. And Tony the tigers camry is a auto


WHAT??^^^

I'm auto. I have been looking for a S/C for my SLE. What made those Auto's so fast?
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Postby Ilovemylara » Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:17 am

Just get an injen SRI on ebay or amazon, a catback and some aftermarket headers. (they sell on here all the time. Upgrade your spark plugs (NGK Iridium), and get a sway bar (also sell on SG sell on SG every now and then) That should be great for a start.
oh and BTW, "ecu chips", especially then ones advertised on ebay are usually a resistor that you have to SOLDER onto your IAT sensor. (CHEEEAAAP CRAP!)
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Postby panic » Sun Aug 31, 2008 8:11 am

" it's the cheapest/safest way to add >40 whp at once. NO2 may be cheaper, but the odds of blowing up your engine go up exponentially"

I agree - a S/C is far cheaper than the traditional "cam+carb+compression" method (changing everything in the engine), and far easier to plan - there are no bad choices, only adjustments.
Unfortunately, a high compression engine can't take much boost without water/alcohol injection.

Nitrous has to be done with some form of automatic (i.e., ECM or piggy-back) fuel enrichment and spark retard, because the knock sensor cannot compensate for the kind of fatal knock nitrous causes.
Major problem: nitrous doesn't add the amount of horsepower stated in the kit. It adds a fairly fixed amount of torque the minute its engaged, and it continues to flow during the automatic shift.

What's that burning smell???
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Postby sydemoid » Sun Aug 31, 2008 8:16 am

i would suggest you browse SG for any true info. i have an auto, NON SC.... my suspension mods alone make a huge difference
Geeks get it done, while Nerds whimper and call for mommie.
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Postby panic » Sun Aug 31, 2008 8:25 am

The problem with this as a project is that you're dealing with, relatively speaking, a highly developed engine. Much easier to improve a 1975 GM V6.

This means that anything you do is second-guessing the factory:
1. what do you know that they don't (hint: it's not a throttle body spacer)?
2. what are you prepared to give up as a compromise to get more power (low-speed power, mileage, longevity)?

There's just not much left on the table except expensive stuff - like having the heads ported, but that's a huge expense for not all that much power (unless you change other things as well). Extrude-hone will do some good things to your manifold, but much bigger bad things to your wallet.
Any serious engine mod needs new ECM controls, more air needs bigger injectors, higher RPM needs expensive rods, valve springs.

In summary: Toyota didn't leave out any obvious really cool stuff.
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Postby panic » Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:55 am

JM2¢?

I place, perhaps, a higher value on ride quality than some of other members here, and there aren't many things that improve handling (i.e., actually tighten the control of the car, as opposed to just making it ride like a buckboard) that don't have a major impact on NVH, ground clearance, tire wear, etc.

Unless carefully chosen, wider rims (especially with the wrong offset - do your research), change the load pattern when camber changes.
Stiffer springs immediately cause harsh ride unless height is kept constant (allowing highly progressive springs to be used). When the car is lowered, the initial compression rate of the spring must be higher to prevent bottoming.
More sway bar (better mount, heavier bar, stiffer isolators) is helpful for corners, but it also makes 1-wheel bumps worse and may induce "darting".

The thing that always works is a good wheel size (even stock) but as light as possible. This is unsprung weight, and needs LESS spring to control (better ride with no control loss), very small improvement in acceleration (most due to dead weight but some from inertia - none from the fact that it's unsprung.

I just can't afford them...

More on unsprung weight: http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/sprung.htm
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