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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - A real Camber question to solve the dispute
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

A real Camber question to solve the dispute

Postby 20SoLaRa02 » Mon Nov 22, 2004 3:52 pm

i undertand the "specs" are a given range but i was under the impression some people were out of this range. i know many people have lowered and are still within the range and that is fine, but i thought some people were out of this range.;

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Postby 2002greenhornet » Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:25 pm

Yeah, if you get your car dropped and don't get an alignment, it's most likely going to be out. We were debating whether a camber kit is needed to get it into acceptable range or not. My position is that it's not.
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Postby DatSRBoi » Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:48 pm

:o Oh dang been following this forum for awhile now and its beginning to sound like I'm trying to read a laungauge I dont know hahaha sorry guys. So ok I got my tokico struts and Tein S springs coming in. I also have facotry 16 inch rims. I dont know much about it but what is the safe drop distance? like dangerous tire and side wearings. I dont mind slowing down and all. Also how much are these camber kits and all and to instal and correct to? Sorry guys. Love this forum just hard to understand.
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Postby Jetfixer » Mon Nov 22, 2004 6:00 pm

Here's what the book says about camber adjustment and the specs for it. I couldn't include the bolt chart, but if someone wants it, email me.


Camber
Right–left error
–0°31’ ± 45’ (–0.52° ± 0.75°)
45’ (0.75°) or less

ADJUST CAMBER
NOTICE:
After the camber has been adjusted, inspect the toe–in.
(a) Remove the front wheel and ABS speed sensor clamp.
(b) Remove the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber.
(c) Coat the threads of the nuts with engine oil.
(d) Temporarily install the 2 nuts.
(e) Adjust the camber by pushing or pulling the lower side of
the shock absorber in the direction in which the camber
adjustment is required.
(f) Tighten the nuts.
Torque: 220 N·m (2,250 kgf·cm, 162 ft·lbf)
(g) Install the ABS speed sensor clamp and front wheel.
Torque: 103 N·m (1,050 kgf·cm, 76 ft·lbf)
(h) Check the camber.
HINT:
 Try to adjust the camber to the center of the specified value.
 Adjusting value for the set bolts is 6’ – 30’ (0.1° – 0.5°).
If the camber is not within the specified value, using the following
table, estimate how much additional camber adjustment will
be required, and select the camber adjusting bolt.
(i) Do the steps mentioned above again. Between step (b)
and (c), replace 1 or 2 selected bolts.
HINT:
When replacing the 2 bolts, replace 1 bolt for each time.
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Postby 2002greenhornet » Mon Nov 22, 2004 6:44 pm

Jetfixer wrote:Camber
Right–left error
–0°31’ ± 45’ (–0.52° ± 0.75°)
45’ (0.75°) or less
Thanks, Jetfixer. That's helpful, for sure. It confirms the Specified Range readout from my alignment of -1.3 to +0.2 (–0.52° ± 0.75°) and also confirms that there IS an "ideal" number within the range. Since they say to "Try to adjust the camber to the center of the specified value" (the ideal, which is the -0.52) then mine is still off that number by -0.40 or so, but well within the range. That would seem to confirm that the camber kit IS necessary to get to that ideal number. Whether reaching that ideal makes a real difference and how much is still the question for me. They do say "try," not "must" and like I said about my repaired Diamante, it was definitely not at the ideal and there were no problems with uneven wear.

And I'm still curious about actual numbers achieved with the use of the camber kit. Bassthrive, if you're still reading this, you never did say whether you had your print-out and what the Actual numbers were after alignment. Do you have that?

For those that are sick of this thread, sorry, but I'm finding it really interesting. I like these kind of "investigations".
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Postby DatSRBoi » Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:32 pm

2002greenhornet wrote:For those that are sick of this thread, sorry, but I'm finding it really interesting. I like these kind of "investigations".


Not sick at all. Surely an interesting forum. The only thing I think is the expensive installation price and tuning that Ima be sick about haha :x
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Postby bassthrive » Mon Nov 22, 2004 10:23 pm

2002greenhornet wrote:Bassthrive, if you're still reading this, you never did say whether you had your print-out and what the Actual numbers were after alignment. Do you have that?

For those that are sick of this thread, sorry, but I'm finding it really interesting. I like these kind of "investigations".


Workin on that! Going back to the shop tuesday since my steering needs some fine tuning. Ill have em hook it back up the machine and see if i can get a printout.

Those that are sick of this thread can fornicate themselves with a rusty coathanger. :crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: :crazyeyes:
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Postby B_Master_Flash » Tue Nov 23, 2004 7:07 pm

didn't read all the replies, sorry if this has already been said.

When i got eibach/tokico installed, the mech said the camber was a little bit out (enough to notice slightly better handling) but it was still within specs. He showed me on his computer that he could special order bolts (from toyota I think) that were tapered a certain way that would put the camber back at stock, but they were only optional. I didn't get them, and my tire wear has been even.
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Postby 2002greenhornet » Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:07 am

B_Master_Flash wrote:I didn't get them, and my tire wear has been even.
How many miles have you put on it since the installation?
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