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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Clutchmasters
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Clutchmasters

Postby GReddySetGO » Sat Jul 15, 2006 1:19 pm

Yes, I call it overkill. You can call it piece of mind. Its your car, your parts, as long as you're happy with it, that's all that matters.

Some would just have a harder time street driving a Stage 4 than you would a Stage 3. Oh, and FYI, the Stage 4 holds the SAME amount of power as a Stage 3, no more, no less. They both hold 485tq @ the crank, if you have a V6.
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Postby GReddySetGO » Sat Jul 15, 2006 1:20 pm

Oh, and yes, my prices are cheaper than HPFreaks. As their pricing on the website there does not include shipping.
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Postby GReddySetGO » Sat Jul 15, 2006 1:27 pm

Oh, and another nice thing about Spec. They offer a lightweight option for $79 extra. It reduces the weight of the entire clutch assembley by ~25%
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Postby Wang2k » Sat Jul 15, 2006 1:54 pm

i know they rated my clutch as the same strength as a stage 3, but the 3 has torsional springs, which are much more prone to failure, and the solid hub feels alot more direct. The same pressure plate is used as the 3 i think.

I wish you could drive my car, its not bad at all. Its manly thats for sure, but very tolerable in my book. I like the feel
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Postby Wang2k » Sat Jul 15, 2006 1:55 pm

also my bad i didnt really notice you had quoted him a price and everything i just wanted to post the link for info reasons.
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Postby GReddySetGO » Sat Jul 15, 2006 2:25 pm

All good. Not many people know about Spec clutches, but they are good, up and coming company.
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Postby Wang2k » Sat Jul 15, 2006 2:58 pm

I know ill never make over 400 ft/lb of torque, but i also know I want to put some slicks on my car and rape some faster cars in the 1/4. Thats pretty much why i got my clutch. Wheel spacers, fender trimming, and high offset wheels are gonna let me fit some wide rubber. Would you say the clutch torque ratings are for a car with street tires? I did so thats why i went overkill.
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Postby GReddySetGO » Sat Jul 15, 2006 5:23 pm

The kind of rims/tires you have on do not have an effect on HP/TQ created at the crank.
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Postby Wang2k » Sat Jul 15, 2006 5:38 pm

WHAT!! you know a 275/35/18 Drag Slick with increase the load on the clutch just like increasing the HP. right???
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Postby GReddySetGO » Sun Jul 16, 2006 1:40 pm

We are talking about power generated at the CRANK, not power loss through the drivetrain.

To have racing slicks on, your driveshafts will be taking most of the burden. A common part people always overlook to upgrade or strengthen. Ever broke a driveshaft at the track? You'll need AAA to get home...
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Postby Wang2k » Sun Jul 16, 2006 2:00 pm

HAHAHAHAHAHA ive broken an axle ON THE INTERSTATE and replaced it IN 20 MINUTES and drove my ass home...i have 2 spare passenger(long side) axles and an extra short one(that has never failed) just in case. In all I would venture to say i have swapped out that axle 10 times. I KEEP THEM IN MY TRUNK anyway back to the clutch- The torque rating on the clutch cannot be 100%accurate. The better the cars ability to put the power to the ground- the higher the load on the clutch. I am only talking about an off the line and first gear situation(i agree once your rolling torque is torque), my car if floored anywhere in first gear leaves a smokeshow when im wearing my crappy 225/40-18's. Alot of power is lost there, so the load on the clutch and entire driveline is decreased.

on 275 width soft compound tire...im gonna rev my car to 4500 or more and drop it. SO the driveline(which DOES include the clutch) is taking an f ing beating like no other solara has im sure...if you dont think so call AAA and ask them
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Postby hskrsolara » Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:16 pm

My reccomendation is in my sig...has been working great for me so far.
The biggest adjustment was pairing the 2+ with the lightweight flywheel, need to rev a lil more for the starts, but the 2+ engages damn quick so it takes a little getting used to.
99 DWP SEV6 5spd 6.5psi+Meth, Tein+Tokico, EricSol+Brembos+EBC, OBX Headers+OBX 3" Exhaust, Supra MAF & 330cc, Spec 2+, Fidanza, TRD lip kit, Injen+Ext, Optima Red, Infinity 60.5+693.7i, 2 Kappa Perfect 12 VQ's+iPod+JVC DVD...etc
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Postby that1mexguy » Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:10 pm

Hey man, if you are still looking for a clutch check out SouthBend too. I got their OFE series stage 4 for $300 plus shipping. I've had it for a few months now and I love it! It's a bit hard to get used to it at 1st but once you get used to it, it's almost a stock feeling. It's very soft and feels like it sticks at the bottom but when shifting, you dont even have to press too much to switch gears. I really recommend it. http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html
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Postby Wang2k » Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:16 pm

i like the feel..to me pedal effort is about what you would expect stock, i feel the stock clutch falls to the floor with very little effort. there is a hard spot right as you get to the floor, and when you are starting from a stop, as soon as it springs past that little hard place its like fully engaged. is that how yours is? I have no experience with southbend, and frankly im glad you got it so i can see how it compares to the spec. Do you drive hard at all? if so isnt it so much easier with the HD clutch?
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