S-AFC - OBD II Tuning

[Paladin06Greg]

Hey guys and gals,

I'm moving forward with my street tune now that I've installed the new MAF and LW pulley. I've got the EASE ODB II tool and a S-AFC along with the A/F gauge.

I've gathered a lot of data from the net and have read it all several times over. I'm hoping someone here has a DIY type document that might help me with my street tune before I get the dyno done in AZ.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PS - I'm new at this so details, details, details.

PS Again - Perhaps we need a tuning section. What do you Admin guys think?

Thanks

Greg A

[CASTRO]

I like the idea. It would help with us knowing what exact type of wideband a/f gauge is best, recommended etc.

I believe UFOz knows how to tune a SAFC w/o a dyno. I myself would wanna know how to tune it.

[JoeB]

Greg, did you read Gadget's tuning guide. It is very good. He posted a link to it here. I commented on it somewhere, I thought it was in this thread. You've got all the right stuff to tune it well. Then the dyno is simply used to move the A/F line to optimize power at a safe level and have a number for a brag sheet. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll send you a link. -JoeB

[Astro]

Greg, did you read Gadget's tuning guide. It is very good. He posted a link to it here. I commented on it somewhere, I thought it was in this thread. You've got all the right stuff to tune it well. Then the dyno is simply used to move the A/F line to optimize power at a safe level and have a number for a brag sheet. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll send you a link. -JoeB

Me too! Is there any differences any tuning manual or auto?

[Paladin06Greg]

Joe,

I found the link but I can not open it. Does it still work for you?

Greg, did you read Gadget's tuning guide. It is very good. He posted a link to it here. I commented on it somewhere, I thought it was in this thread. You've got all the right stuff to tune it well. Then the dyno is simply used to move the A/F line to optimize power at a safe level and have a number for a brag sheet. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll send you a link. -JoeB

[that1mexguy]

Oh man now i wanna know too!!!! I'm ready!!!

[Astro]

What OBDII scanner are you all using??? Are you all using this one listed here: http://www.autotap.com/autotap_for_windows.html

[JoeB]

Joe,

I found the link but I can not open it. Does it still work for you?

Greg, It still works for me. I can either left click on it and it just opens the Adobe Acrobat file or right-click and do a "save as" then open the document. It's the one in this thread http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php?t=13835&highlight=tuning. I'll send the doc to your email. If you can't read it, download and install Adobe Acrobat Reader (free). -JoeB

[Astro]

How's this OBDII scanner? This is the same one Gadget sells but at $96.00
http://www.obddiagnostics.com/order.html

[Paladin06Greg]

Joe,

Thanks for the help earlier today.

Greg A

[StockSolara]

Man I read it last night. . . it's like wow I understand it a lot more now. . . I wanted to just buy the SS-FTC and start tuning my car already

[JoeB]

Yeah, that's a great tuning guide that Gadget wrote. If you decide you want a SS FTC, let me know, I'll give you a good deal on a used one. I've got 1 in my garage. I am going to the Greddy e-manage ultimate.

Just for everyone's benefit, I want to explain the short and long term fuel trims a little more:

(with the V engine - 2 banks) First, monitor bank 1 and 2 long term trims. They should be very close. At this point it doesn't matter what they are, as long as they are close together. Far apart indicates trouble.

Next so the OBD2 reads quicker, just monitor the RPM with 1 bank's ST (short term) and LT (long term) fuel trims. You might want to monitor the Fuel System Status as well to make sure you are reading closed loop only.

Your goal here is to get the LT trims dialed in to 0 throughout the closed loop range. This can't be done in "park" or "neutral" in an automatic for higher RPMs, it will just go into OL (open loop). This is best with 2 people, 1 driving and the other monitoring and adjusting on the SAFC. Driver hits and holds an RPM while the person monitoring watches the scanner. The adjuster lets the driver know what RPM to revisit. To get to higher RPMs and not go fast, use a lower gear.

The way it works is this: The short term will ALWAYS go to 0. Don't think you have adjusted it because you see the short term at 0. The short term is feedback from the 2 banks O2 sensors constantly looking for 14.7:1. If the long term is reading -5% (meaning it is running 5% rich and the ECU is having to decrease the fuel by 5% to get to 14.7:1) and you INCREASE fuel by 5%, your ST trims will move from 0 to -5% and the LT trims will be at -5%. After a few minutes like this, the LT trims will move to -10% and the ST trims will be back at 0%. If it was at -5% and you DECREASE the fuel by 5%, the ST trims will go to +5% meaning that right now (short term) the car is running 5% lean. After a few minutes running like that, it will pull the LT trims up to 0% and the ST trims will go back to 0. To further clarify the point, if the LT trims were at -5% and you DECREASED the fuel by 10%, immeiately the ST trims would go to +10%. After a few minutes, the long term will adjust to +5% and the ST trims back to 0% meaning they are done correcting and the value in the long term map is good for 14.7:1 but it is still off by 5% in this case lean. The goal here is to get the LT trims to 0 meaning that there is no correction. In reality, you are shooting for +/-5 on LT trims while the ST trims are at 0. Make sense? Hope it helps. -JoeB

[StockSolara]

Yeah, that's a great tuning guide that Gadget wrote. If you decide you want a SS FTC, let me know, I'll give you a good deal on a used one. I've got 1 in my garage. I am going to the Greddy e-manage ultimate.

Just for everyone's benefit, I want to explain the short and long term fuel trims a little more:

(with the V engine - 2 banks) First, monitor bank 1 and 2 long term trims. They should be very close. At this point it doesn't matter what they are, as long as they are close together. Far apart indicates trouble.

Next so the OBD2 reads quicker, just monitor the RPM with 1 bank's ST (short term) and LT (long term) fuel trims. You might want to monitor the Fuel System Status as well to make sure you are reading closed loop only.

Your goal here is to get the LT trims dialed in to 0 throughout the closed loop range. This can't be done in "park" or "neutral" in an automatic for higher RPMs, it will just go into OL (open loop). This is best with 2 people, 1 driving and the other monitoring and adjusting on the SAFC. Driver hits and holds an RPM while the person monitoring watches the scanner. The adjuster lets the driver know what RPM to revisit. To get to higher RPMs and not go fast, use a lower gear.

The way it works is this: The short term will ALWAYS go to 0. Don't think you have adjusted it because you see the short term at 0. The short term is feedback from the 2 banks O2 sensors constantly looking for 14.7:1. If the long term is reading -5% (meaning it is running 5% rich and the ECU is having to decrease the fuel by 5% to get to 14.7:1) and you INCREASE fuel by 5%, your ST trims will move from 0 to -5% and the LT trims will be at -5%. After a few minutes like this, the LT trims will move to -10% and the ST trims will be back at 0%. If it was at -5% and you DECREASE the fuel by 5%, the ST trims will go to +5% meaning that right now (short term) the car is running 5% lean. After a few minutes running like that, it will pull the LT trims up to 0% and the ST trims will go back to 0. To further clarify the point, if the LT trims were at -5% and you DECREASED the fuel by 10%, immeiately the ST trims would go to +10%. After a few minutes, the long term will adjust to +5% and the ST trims back to 0% meaning they are done correcting and the value in the long term map is good for 14.7:1 but it is still off by 5% in this case lean. The goal here is to get the LT trims to 0 meaning that there is no correction. In reality, you are shooting for +/-5 on LT trims while the ST trims are at 0. Make sense? Hope it helps. -JoeB

wow. . .

[Fletch]

I admire JoeB and others knowledge of OBDII tuning, I read the Gadget tuning guide and it is well written, however, I'm not embarrassed to say that it isn't for me. I don't think it is beyond my ability, but the tools and time required to do all of it properly is more than I care to take on.

I am reconsidering installing the injectors and pump, don't even have an A/F piggy back yet. It's unfortunate we can't just spend a few hundred bucks on a chip and be done with it.

For those of you who pursue it, good luck, can't wait to see some huge #'s from the dyno too.

[DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy]

[quote="StockSolara"][quote="JoeB"]Yeah, that's a great tuning guide that Gadget wrote. If you decide you want a SS FTC, let me know, I'll give you a good deal on a used one. I've got 1 in my garage. I am going to the Greddy e-manage ultimate.

Just for everyone's benefit, I want to explain the short and long term fuel trims a little more:

(with the V engine - 2 banks) First, monitor bank 1 and 2 long term trims. They should be very close. At this point it doesn't matter what they are, as long as they are close together. Far apart indicates trouble.

Next so the OBD2 reads quicker, just monitor the RPM with 1 bank's ST (short term) and LT (long term) fuel trims. You might want to monitor the Fuel System Status as well to make sure you are reading closed loop only.

Your goal here is to get the LT trims dialed in to 0 throughout the closed loop range. This can't be done in "park" or "neutral" in an automatic for higher RPMs, it will just go into OL (open loop). This is best with 2 people, 1 driving and the other monitoring and adjusting on the SAFC. Driver hits and holds an RPM while the person monitoring watches the scanner. The adjuster lets the driver know what RPM to revisit. To get to higher RPMs and not go fast, use a lower gear.

The way it works is this: The short term will ALWAYS go to 0. Don't think you have adjusted it because you see the short term at 0. The short term is feedback from the 2 banks O2 sensors constantly looking for 14.7:1. If the long term is reading -5% (meaning it is running 5% rich and the ECU is having to decrease the fuel by 5% to get to 14.7:1) and you INCREASE fuel by 5%, your ST trims will move from 0 to -5% and the LT trims will be at -5%. After a few minutes like this, the LT trims will move to -10% and the ST trims will be back at 0%. If it was at -5% and you DECREASE the fuel by 5%, the ST trims will go to +5% meaning that right now (short term) the car is running 5% lean. After a few minutes running like that, it will pull the LT trims up to 0% and the ST trims will go back to 0. To further clarify the point, if the LT trims were at -5% and you DECREASED the fuel by 10%, immeiately the ST trims would go to +10%. After a few minutes, the long term will adjust to +5% and the ST trims back to 0% meaning they are done correcting and the value in the long term map is good for 14.7:1 but it is still off by 5% in this case lean. The goal here is to get the LT trims to 0 meaning that there is no correction. In reality, you are shooting for +/-5 on LT trims while the ST trims are at 0. Make sense? Hope it helps. -JoeB[/quote]
wow. . . [/quote]

Yup....wow....