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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - low hp on dyno?
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

low hp on dyno?

low hp on dyno?

Postby chef solara » Wed Apr 16, 2003 6:03 am

To anyone that can help (flipside). I have a 01 SLE with a SC and 6psi pulley, S-AFC, Greddy and injen. Also A upgrade fuel pump from EL proto.
Yesterday i dyno and programed my car and it only dynoed at 212.5hp and 208.4 Tor.
The first run however i cam in at 204.2hp and 185.6 tor. So there was a large increase in torque. but everyone else that has what i have, are at like 240hp.
I know that manuel makes a big difference but can some one help me.
Oh also the car was running really rich for like 3 months before i could program it. could that be the problem, the spark plugs are foulded up.
and my Check engine lite came on right after i left the dynoshop.
So i talked my buddy at the local toyota dealer and he thinks that is my O2 sencer i burnt out. and i have to find a higher buring O2 sencer.
ANY ONE PLEASE WRITE BACK WITH IDEAS THAT WILL HELP ME.
THANKS.
OH ya I also unpluged the ECT ( i think that's what it's called) To cut boost. But i don't that has anything to do with my check engine light.
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Postby Yanks0114 » Wed Apr 16, 2003 8:50 am

If you were dynotuning, chances are you did foul out your plugs. I would first get denso iridium plugs. They are at www.groupbuycenter.com for $63 shipped for 6. Also upgrade your wires to magnecor KV-85 or the NGK wires.

Have them do an OBDII scan on your car and figure out why the check engine light is on. Most guys haven't had to upgrade their O2 sensors. What was the temperature out when you tried to do this and what altitude? Your first run probally came in low because you were driving to the shop and the engine was real hot.
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Re: low hp on dyno?

Postby Flipside909 » Wed Apr 16, 2003 11:13 am

chef solara wrote:The first run however i cam in at 204.2hp and 185.6 tor. So there was a large increase in torque. but everyone else that has what i have, are at like 240hp.


Everyone in the 240 range are Manual vehicles. The Autos are NO WHERE close to that number. The highest i've seen was like 210hp to the wheels...nothing more. It would be smart to run Iridium IK22 plugs. You don't really need to buy the Magnecors because it's mainly for asthetics. The OEM plug wires work fine. As for your O2 sensor, stick with the OEM one. You shouldn't be burning that out. You have more of a engine tuning problem than anything else.
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Postby krazeee1707 » Wed Apr 16, 2003 5:01 pm

would a torque converter for the auto trans give me some what close numbers to that of a manual??
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Postby Flipside909 » Wed Apr 16, 2003 6:20 pm

krazeee1707 wrote:would a torque converter for the auto trans give me some what close numbers to that of a manual??


Nope.
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Postby Yanks0114 » Wed Apr 16, 2003 7:00 pm

I've seen the numbers where manual beats auto on the dyno, but why by such a wide margin? Is it because of the high power loss through the drivetrain. Any way to correct this, or atleast lower it, or is it just the poor design of the auto tranny. Well not poor design but inefficient design in the power aspect
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Postby chef solara » Wed Apr 16, 2003 7:09 pm

Well Thanks for all your guys info. I will buy the plugs.
My other idea that came up was could my fuel injectors be clogged. I did run for like three months really rich.

And my question to flip about the (Having a tuning problem) What do you mean, like I should get the plugs and then re-dynotune?

To yanks, I live in South FL, So I am sea level. and always 80-90 degrees with usually 100% humidity.
And i had to drive like 45 min on the highway just to get to the dyno shop.

Also, what about the ECT ( I still can't remember the name of the clip that cuts off boost)
Good or Bad? to leave unpluged
Please write back with more helpfull info. much appreciated.
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Postby Yanks0114 » Wed Apr 16, 2003 7:12 pm

chef solara wrote:To yanks, I live in South FL, So I am sea level. and always 80-90 degrees with usually 100% humidity.
And i had to drive like 45 min on the highway just to get to the dyno shop.

Also, what about the ECT ( I still can't remember the name of the clip that cuts off boost)
Good or Bad? to leave unpluged
Please write back with more helpfull info. much appreciated.


Before you dyno let your car cool off for a while. You will see a HUGE difference.

I think you mean EBC (not ECT) That really shouldn't affect dyno results, but I would connect it. Its there for a reason. It cuts boost at redline and between shifts.
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Postby chef solara » Wed Apr 16, 2003 7:18 pm

Thanks yanks, But about flipside saying that its a tuning problem, what does he mean.
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Postby Flipside909 » Wed Apr 16, 2003 9:23 pm

chef solara wrote:And my question to flip about the (Having a tuning problem) What do you mean, like I should get the plugs and then re-dynotune?

To yanks, I live in South FL, So I am sea level. and always 80-90 degrees with usually 100% humidity.
And i had to drive like 45 min on the highway just to get to the dyno shop.

Also, what about the ECT ( I still can't remember the name of the clip that cuts off boost)
Good or Bad? to leave unpluged
Please write back with more helpfull info. much appreciated.


Yeah, how many miles do you have and when was the last time you got the car tuned up? When you do dynotune though...your recalibrated S-AFC settings should compensate and give you the best A/F mixture for your setup.

As for EBC (not ECT), keep it plugged in.
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Postby chef solara » Thu Apr 17, 2003 6:09 am

Well Flipside the car just hit 22,000 miles. I have not had a tune-up yet.
just oil changes and one trany flush.
But my question is I guess, My car will never get over 220hp on the dyno.
What about the headers and y-pipe from jp prototypes, what kinda mods will i need for my trany to handel that much more power. OH and does thoese headers and y-pipe really give 30 more hp, I know that was a manual but how about auto? Alot of people say that's not real, the most being 15hp. What do you think?
Please write back with info, Thank you very much.
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Postby Flipside909 » Thu Apr 17, 2003 11:26 am

chef solara wrote:Well Flipside the car just hit 22,000 miles. I have not had a tune-up yet.
just oil changes and one trany flush.
But my question is I guess, My car will never get over 220hp on the dyno.
What about the headers and y-pipe from jp prototypes, what kinda mods will i need for my trany to handel that much more power. OH and does thoese headers and y-pipe really give 30 more hp, I know that was a manual but how about auto? Alot of people say that's not real, the most being 15hp. What do you think?
Please write back with info, Thank you very much.


The JP headers would definitely free up horsepower. If you were to beef up everything else, beef up your torque converter and add a tranny fluid line cooler. As for HP, you really need to dyno it to get the real numbers...making assumptions about HP figures from manual tranny cars wont really satisfy.
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Postby Pat S » Thu Apr 17, 2003 6:04 pm

I think something is wrong.
I'm in Denver (5400ft altitude) and was able to hit 212hp in an auto with similar mods. You should be higher than that.
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Another person over on SC3 had a similar problem and several said to loose the hot air intake and make sure your timing isn't being offset by the ECU due to knocking.

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Postby Chef solara » Thu Apr 17, 2003 7:59 pm

Hey Flip , what do you think about my fuel injectors being clogged, I just bought the spark plugs so in a couple of day they'll be here. Should i still hook up to the OBII, and see If anything is wrong,
My friend at toyota told me to unplug the EFI fuse and wait 30 sec. so i did and the check engine light went off. and has stayed off so far.
What do I make of this?
And should i re-dyno after the plugs are put in?
And what stall speed should a torqe converter be at for best results.

OH, Quick question, Do you think that the headers are worth the money that JP are asking for?
Please write back, Thank you very much.
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Postby Flipside909 » Thu Apr 17, 2003 9:31 pm

Chef solara wrote:Hey Flip , what do you think about my fuel injectors being clogged, I just bought the spark plugs so in a couple of day they'll be here. Should i still hook up to the OBII, and see If anything is wrong,
My friend at toyota told me to unplug the EFI fuse and wait 30 sec. so i did and the check engine light went off. and has stayed off so far.
What do I make of this?
And should i re-dyno after the plugs are put in?
And what stall speed should a torqe converter be at for best results.

OH, Quick question, Do you think that the headers are worth the money that JP are asking for?
Please write back, Thank you very much.


If your injectors are clogged, you would have alot of hesitation...and considering the miles you have...I doubt they're clogged. Just to be safe, run one bottle of FI cleaner to a full tank. If your CEL is coming on, you're probably having 02 sensor problems, EGR problems (unlikely) or possibly knock sensors that have blown. Make sure you get the CEL off and codes read before you get it dynoed or anything.

As for the headers...they're a worthy investment if you aren't on a budget.
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