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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Torque Rod Installation
Page 3 of 3

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:48 pm
by Nyyankees3511
Yea i will but its pretty stiff, and it only happens going from R to D and hitting the gas and it wont do it anymore.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:32 pm
by Akfahad
BUMP...I know it's an old post, but I finally got my hands on one. Anyone got pictures of the install besides Astro's cardomain one. (seems like JoeB's tutorial pics are down)? If not, I guess I'll just call Jim for directions directly.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:23 pm
by CASTRO
i dunno bout you but i still see the pics on page 1 of this thread

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:13 pm
by s15lara
im not seeing them either. anyone still have them????

PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:55 am
by Akfahad
No images for me...Castro, can you save the pics and email them to me? I'll give you my email address over PM once you respond. Once I get them, I'll put them on my cardomain page.

Josh

PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:35 am
by Akfahad
Just wanted to add that the TQ rod went in easily, no real need for pics. Car does feel stiffer at launch, definitely glad I bought it.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 3:10 pm
by lilm
bump for mini group buy

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:06 pm
by Astro
s15lara wrote:im not seeing them either. anyone still have them????


This is the pic I posted on page 1....
Astro wrote:I took off the fan and it took about 10 minutes!
Image

Re: Torque Rod Installation

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 6:51 pm
by s15lara
JoeB wrote:PIC#1 is the torque rod available from Jim @ Foreign affairs. Jim sends the torque rod pre-assembled which I thought to be very helpful. PIC#2 is the transmission shock that we will be replacing. If you don't have this in your car, you might want to ask yourself why you are doing this. :wink: I used the following tools; 3/8 socket wrench, 6” 3/8 extension, 14mm socket, deep 14mm socket, 17mm socket, deep 17mm socket, 14mm ratcheting combination wrench, 17mm ratcheting combination wrench and a 17mm opened end wrench. I took about 30 minutes to do this and was really taking my time. Very easy job and even easier if you have small arms and hands :( . Let’s get started…

Image

Image


Removal:
Since I was the guinea pig and had no instructions, I figured I’d throw caution to the wind. I didn’t know it the transmission needed to be supported or not so I just removed the shock without supporting it to see. When I started removing the bottom bolt, I noticed there was no pressure on it at all so it didn’t need to be supported, too easy! Refer to PIC#2, in the first step, we’ll be working with point “C”. There are 2 nuts on top there together. To get the top nut off, you’ll need to put a 14mm opened end wrench (or ratcheting combination wrench) on the lower nut to hold it still, then take the top nut off using a 14mm socket wrench with a 6” extension. After you get the top nut off use the deep 14mm socket to remove the net beneath it still at point “C”. After those 2 nuts are removed, pull the hardware off the top including the rubber bushing. Next, we’ll remove the bolt that is holding the shock in. The nut at point “A” is welded on. Here’s where the small arms and hands come in. You need to get a 14mm wrench on the bolt at point “B” and take it off. All I had to do was brake it loose (which wasn’t difficult thankfully) then I took it out by hand. Keep that bolt, we’ll reuse it to hold the torque rod in place. With the bolt out, the shock will pull right out.

Assembly:
To start with, take the hardware off the torque rod at point “A” in PIC#1. Then spin the nuts down towards point “C” a little to get it out of the way. Now slip the torque rod with point “A” coming up through the top hole where you removed the shock leaving the rod end (heim joint) at the bottom. Get that bolt you removed and kept for this step and insert it in the same direction it was in with the shock, going through the hole in the rod end and tighten it down with a 14mm wrench. Next, push the urethane grommet up against the metal bracket and screw the top nut up firmly to the bottom of that grommet. Then spin the other nut up to it and tighten the 2 together. Those nuts are 17mm. Next, put the hardware from point “A” that you took off earlier back on the way it came off. If you forgot, refer to the pic. Tighten the bottom nut snuggly, no need to torque it. Then tighten the top nut down to the bottom nut. It should now look like PIC#3.

Image

I really don't think you'll have any trouble but if you do, post and I'll try to help. -JoeB

*EDIT* I originally said "ignition wrench", it's actually a ratcheting combination wrench I uesd, open on one side, closed on the other side and ratchets. It was perfect for that bottom bolt!



hey guys, i need a lil bit of help. i was starting to take out the old torque rod, and took off the first nut (no problems there). now im trying to take off the second nut (and just like joeb had said to use a DEEP 14mm socket i did just that) but the whole rod keeps turning not allowing me to take off that second nut. i've tried holding it w/ some pliers and a few other things but to no avail. it just keeps turning w/ the whole rod. what did you guys do? i have the fan out and everything, but cant seem to take that damn nut off! pls guys, i really need your help on this.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 3:56 pm
by Chinky420
anyone still have pics? just got mine and would appreciate anyone who still has pics of what JoeB is referred to

if you want to just email them, pm me and i'll send you my email address

thx

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:00 am
by nammby77
Chinky420 wrote:anyone still have pics? just got mine and would appreciate anyone who still has pics of what JoeB is referred to

if you want to just email them, pm me and i'll send you my email address

thx

Same here thanks.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 3:49 pm
by akora12
An added tip:

I used (5) 3/8" washers on each side of the heim joint (10 total). This made the lower end of the torque rod fit snugly and prevented any lateral movent.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 5:37 pm
by Midias
akora12 wrote:An added tip:

I used (5) 3/8" washers on each side of the heim joint (10 total). This made the lower end of the torque rod fit snugly and prevented any lateral movent.


I should do that as well

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:40 pm
by Mr_Krispy1183
I can't let this go unsaid.

Thanks again to Brett (YESCA) for the rod, Joe Bailer (wherever you are) for your detailed instrux, to PDX/Jim@FA for the R&D/design/fab, and another +1 kudos to akora12 and his washer tip. A pain in the ass to get in, but the space filling/snug fit are well worth it.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:28 pm
by SleeperSolara
Here's what mine looks like.

Image

I took out the full bracket that mounts the OEM torque damper to the frame.
The placed the washer while it was out of the car.
And then slide it back in the bracket to the the tranny mount.