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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Jim's Fuel Kit upgrade
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Jim's Fuel Kit upgrade

Jim's Fuel Kit upgrade

Postby that1mexguy » Tue May 24, 2005 8:56 pm

DISCLAIMER: This tutorial is written based on my own experience. If you have suggestions to how something was done, feedback is always welcomed. If I messed something up (i.e. need to use a 14mm wrench instead of a 12mm) please let me know so I can make the appropriate changes. I tried to write this up as simple as possible so that other non-auto mechanic people like me can understand it. If you don't agree with anything on this tutorial because you have a different way of doing it, yet my method works, write your own tutorial and then share with the rest. If I mis-spelled something, too bad ... you'll live and please refer to my previous sentence. Thank you and good luck!

Tools used: locking pliers, a bunch of wrenches (from 10mm to 23mm) to remove the intake, strut bar, etc. A coke can cut in half (to catch any gas leaking), a few rags (to absorb some gas leaking) and a bike (this item is optional and can be substituted with any other type of transportation to the auto parts store for when you notice you are missing some tools and your car is alreay taken apart so you can't drive it).

1. First step is to release any pressure from the fuel lines to avoid any spillage when removing the lines. You’ll do that by removing the gas cap from the gas tank. (see pic 1).
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2. Pic 2 below shows fuel filter and fuel lines to be removed.
Letter “A” shows the fuel filter. Letter “B” shows the grey clips holding the fuel line to the fuel filter – to remove, squeeze the grey clips and separate the fuel line – watch out for any leaks (this is where the coke can came in handy). Letter “C” shows the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rails, it goes directly to back fuel rail – letter “E”. And letter “D” is the front fuel rail (yeah, I got the letters backward, sue me!)
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3. Letter “A” on pic 3 below shows the fuel line and the grey clips separated
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4. Next step is to remove the stock fuel filter. To remove the stock filter, use a 12mm wrench (I think – sorry, don’t remember) to remove the nut that is attached to the fuel line at the bottom of the filter. Remember, this nut turns clockwise to be removed. I used the locking pliers to hold the filter in place to make sure it wouldn’t turn. I had the pliers in my left hand holding the filter (bottom of filter has its own nut, that’s where I placed the pliers), and the wrench in my right hand loosing the 12mm nut from the fuel line. Once you get it loose, gas will leak. I used a coke can (cut in half) and some rags to absorb the gas. I then removed the stock fuel filter from its bracket (you will not need this bracket again so you can bend it open to remove the filter - or you can use it to hold the new one, it's really up to you). I then used a 10mm ratchet wrench to remove the bolts holding the filter’s bracket.

5. Pic 4 below shows the new upgraded filter. This filter has it’s own bracket but the holes didn’t line up, so I was only able to use 1 bolt to attach it back to the car (letter “B”). Letter “A” shows the fuel line that runs from the firewall to the bottom of the filter.
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6. We now move to the fuel rails. I first removed the bolt located at the front fuel rail (Pic 5, letter “A”). I used a 14mm I believe, again, watch out for gas leaks. (notice the rag I had there to absorb the gas?)
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7. Pic 6 is a close up to previous step after 14mm bolt is removed
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8. Moving on to the back fuel rail. Letter “A” in pic 7 shows the back rail to be removed. First remove the plastic cap, you can do this by hand – no tool needed
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9. Pic 8 below shows the 23mm wrench removing the bolt that connects the fuel line to the fuel filter. Again, gas will leak. This fuel line is attached to a metal bracket so now this bracket must be removed
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10. Pic 9 shows the bracket to be removed. First, unclip the plastic on top of the bracket (letter “A”), then remove the bolt holding the bracket in place (letter “B”)
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11. Pic 10 below shows how I used a 12mm ratchet wrench to remove the bolt holding the bracket (letter “A”). After this bracket is removed, you will need to remove the fuel rails (letter “B”) to make room for the new kit
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12. Letter “A” on pic 11 shows the new thingies (hehe, forgot what they are called) on each of the fuel rails. Each was installed with the copper rings in between. After starting the car, my front fuel rail connection was leaking a lot because I didn’t tighten it up hard enough. Make sure to tighten them up but do not over do it because that will cause it to leak too
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13. I then attached the small hose from the kit (see pic 12 below)
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14. Pic 13 shows the “T” connector attaching the small hose to the front rail
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15. Now the big hose attaches to the “T” connector to the top of the new fuel filter
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16. Last step is to put together as much as you can to get the car started. After putting some of the intake back together, I started the car for 5 seconds and turned it off. I then ran to the front of the car to check for any leaks. I continued to do so until I was able to stop all leaks. Once I verified there were no more leaks, I sprayed the area with some water to make sure there was no gas left.
Do NOT drive around with any fuel leaks.

17. I then unplugged the battery so the computer can reset and let the water dry up for almost an hour (weather was at over 80 degrees so that was more than enough for it to dry up)
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18. Lastly, put it all back together and started up the car. Prior to taking off, I checked for leaks one more time. After triple checking there were no leaks, I took the car out for a spin. WOW! You are now done my friend…. Enjoy!!!!!
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Postby RichD978 » Wed May 25, 2005 5:00 am

Nice tut!
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Postby Paladin06Greg » Wed May 25, 2005 7:02 am

Very well done.
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Postby Astro » Wed May 25, 2005 9:29 am

Excellent! Great write-up and pics. :D
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Postby s15lara » Wed May 25, 2005 10:46 am

great work...cant wait till i get mine.
almost there...what do you think?
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Postby SpeedSTARs » Wed May 25, 2005 11:35 am

Very nicley done. I drink to that :drinking: :wink: :D
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Postby SleeperSolara » Wed May 25, 2005 12:06 pm

Nice write up.
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Postby 1st Gen Sol » Wed May 25, 2005 8:19 pm

Pictures definately help out your tutorial.........good job
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Postby Arpsito » Wed May 25, 2005 8:58 pm

wow. look at all those crazy pictures. I wish i could do that stuff. Nevertheless, i wish i could do that stuff.
Man. I wish i could do some of the stuff i see here. Heh.....
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Postby JAYDEE23 » Thu May 26, 2005 1:57 pm

what does this accomplish. that would be helpful?

great tut btw. just dont know what it does
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Postby jazzlara » Thu May 26, 2005 2:09 pm

nice job dude. i will use it once im charged.
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Postby that1mexguy » Thu May 26, 2005 2:33 pm

JAYDEE23 wrote:what does this accomplish. that would be helpful?

great tut btw. just dont know what it does


it's ok my friend... if you search around in the after market area for the Gen 1-1.5 you will see, and thanks guys, I hope it does help at least one of you out there.
:drinking: :drinking: :drinking:
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Postby Yanks0114 » Mon May 30, 2005 5:12 pm

JAYDEE23 wrote:
great tut btw. just dont know what it does


I agree its a great tutorial

Jim's fuel mod was designed to give equal amounts of fuel to the both the front and rear bank of cylinders. Jim noticed that his rear(?) bank was getting much less fuel than the front. The T-fitting was apparently too small and was starving the rear.

I may have switched up front and rear, i'm not sure which one was getting starved
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Postby ~Spadwaller~ » Thu Aug 04, 2005 10:28 am

Does this fuel upgrade use up more gasoline?
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Postby arch.HI » Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:50 am

~Spadwaller~ wrote:Does this fuel upgrade use up more gasoline?


Any fuel upgrade will use more gasoline. We don't mod our cars for the MPG right?

Good write up! A tip shared by Jim to help remove a stubborn fuel line was to hold the bottom of the filter with a 17mm(?) wrench and use a 14mm(?) flare nut wrench on the fuel line fitting, then pry the wrenches apart with a screwdriver.
Last edited by arch.HI on Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:59 am, edited 2 times in total.
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