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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - ACIS power mod.
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ACIS power mod.

Postby mazen222 » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:31 pm

why dont they build it like this if its better? I mean what are the downsides?
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Postby w00zi » Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:15 am

i dont know if anyone answered this ..... but is this mod for v6's only or is it also for 4 bangers, and what do you by N/A only?

Thanks,w00zi
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Postby Got2XLR8 NYX » Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:23 am

Its for V6 only and for Not Supercharged Solaras.... IMO Don't do it...
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CAI Extention : TWM Short Shifter : Injen Intake : DIY Black Housing : Renova Grille : ACT 6 Puck : Jim's Fuel Mod : Walbro 190 : JIC FSTB
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Postby CASTRO » Fri Oct 03, 2008 12:27 pm

ah this is back from the dead.

Conclusion: do it if you want one linear powerband and loose lots of TQ downlow. The system is to make the engine feel like it has 2 sets of intake runners, long runners for velocity and TQ at low speeds and short runners for plenty of air ASAP.

If you look at diff engines, the charageristics of topend/bottom TQ shows from the design esp from the intake manifold. Honda motors that are made to do hauling for example have ultra long runners EX:currentl 4cyl accord. VS super short runners like the Civic Si. They both have the same design engine (K series) but act different.

I believe that having the flap in place aka stock is the best way to go. Just do a real power mod and get a CP-e or free flowing exhaust. Hell, even taking the spare out is the best bang for the buck
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Postby BChad200 » Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:49 pm

ok so i just did this... took about 7 minutes. car sounds a lil meaner and i didnt drive it far enough or on an open enough road to get into it but my first impression was that it works. only question...is there any long term negative effects of doing this? also, for those of you with aftermarket intakes how did it affect your results?
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Postby Ilovemylara » Sat Oct 04, 2008 9:02 pm

Look at the dyno chart again, It says "max power 156hp"... I know our 1mzs put out substantially more than that.. That can't be legit :evilbat:
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Postby Mr_Krispy1183 » Sat Oct 04, 2008 9:06 pm

^You'd be surprised/disappointed at the truth... However, do what you can to remedy the lapse in power w/proper bolt-ons.
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Postby Midias » Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:29 am

Ilovemylara wrote:Look at the dyno chart again, It says "max power 156hp"... I know our 1mzs put out substantially more than that.. That can't be legit :evilbat:



156 is about right for a stock 5 speed 1mz
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Postby Got2XLR8 NYX » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:33 pm

BChad200 wrote:ok so i just did this... took about 7 minutes. car sounds a lil meaner and i didnt drive it far enough or on an open enough road to get into it but my first impression was that it works. only question...is there any long term negative effects of doing this? also, for those of you with aftermarket intakes how did it affect your results?


Glad someone asked... I was running this a for a while in the Spring of 07 for like 3 months... I switched back b/c my engine started acting strange with an inconsistent rev. at Idle and while driving. When I had my mechanic check it out he said it was misfiring on Cylinders 1,3,& 6. After he checked out my car for a week he said the Vac lines may have had something to do with me needing a new ECU. Since then I didn't mess with this Mod again... Not saying that it doesn't work or that this mod led to me and my screwed up ECU but unless someone who has used this configuration "Long Term" and no negative side effects, then I wouldn't recommend doing it.
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TRD Lip Kit : TRD Exhaust : TRD RSB : TRD SC : TSW REVO 17x8
CAI Extention : TWM Short Shifter : Injen Intake : DIY Black Housing : Renova Grille : ACT 6 Puck : Jim's Fuel Mod : Walbro 190 : JIC FSTB
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Postby funboy102 » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:29 am

Midias wrote:
Ilovemylara wrote:Look at the dyno chart again, It says "max power 156hp"... I know our 1mzs put out substantially more than that.. That can't be legit :evilbat:



156 is about right for a stock 5 speed 1mz


what the heck??? So you mean, with a manual transmission and a front-wheel drive drive train, the power loss is 25%? That sounds too much. Out of the combination of manual VS automatic and front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive, and all wheel drive car, manual loses less power than auto, and front keeps the most power, followed by rear-wheel drive, than all wheel drive right?

If 25% is what we lose as a manual tranny, front wheel driven car, I can only imagine a automatic all-wheel drive to lose 35%-40% or so.
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Postby Midias » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:57 am

^^ Yup an auto puts down about 135 whp
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