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why dont they build it like this if its better? I mean what are the downsides?

Its for V6 only and for Not Supercharged Solaras.... IMO Don't do it...

ah this is back from the dead.

Conclusion: do it if you want one linear powerband and loose lots of TQ downlow. The system is to make the engine feel like it has 2 sets of intake runners, long runners for velocity and TQ at low speeds and short runners for plenty of air ASAP.

If you look at diff engines, the charageristics of topend/bottom TQ shows from the design esp from the intake manifold. Honda motors that are made to do hauling for example have ultra long runners EX:currentl 4cyl accord. VS super short runners like the Civic Si. They both have the same design engine (K series) but act different.

I believe that having the flap in place aka stock is the best way to go. Just do a real power mod and get a CP-e or free flowing exhaust. Hell, even taking the spare out is the best bang for the buck

ok so i just did this... took about 7 minutes. car sounds a lil meaner and i didnt drive it far enough or on an open enough road to get into it but my first impression was that it works. only question...is there any long term negative effects of doing this? also, for those of you with aftermarket intakes how did it affect your results?

Look at the dyno chart again, It says "max power 156hp"... I know our 1mzs put out substantially more than that.. That can't be legit

^You'd be surprised/disappointed at the truth... However, do what you can to remedy the lapse in power w/proper bolt-ons.

Ilovemylara wrote:Look at the dyno chart again, It says "max power 156hp"... I know our 1mzs put out substantially more than that.. That can't be legit

156 is about right for a stock 5 speed 1mz

BChad200 wrote:ok so i just did this... took about 7 minutes. car sounds a lil meaner and i didnt drive it far enough or on an open enough road to get into it but my first impression was that it works. only question...is there any long term negative effects of doing this? also, for those of you with aftermarket intakes how did it affect your results?

Glad someone asked... I was running this a for a while in the Spring of 07 for like 3 months... I switched back b/c my engine started acting strange with an inconsistent rev. at Idle and while driving. When I had my mechanic check it out he said it was misfiring on Cylinders 1,3,& 6. After he checked out my car for a week he said the Vac lines may have had something to do with me needing a new ECU. Since then I didn't mess with this Mod again... Not saying that it doesn't work or that this mod led to me and my screwed up ECU but unless someone who has used this configuration "Long Term" and no negative side effects, then I wouldn't recommend doing it.

Midias wrote:

Ilovemylara wrote:Look at the dyno chart again, It says "max power 156hp"... I know our 1mzs put out substantially more than that.. That can't be legit

156 is about right for a stock 5 speed 1mz

what the heck??? So you mean, with a manual transmission and a front-wheel drive drive train, the power loss is 25%? That sounds too much. Out of the combination of manual VS automatic and front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive, and all wheel drive car, manual loses less power than auto, and front keeps the most power, followed by rear-wheel drive, than all wheel drive right?

If 25% is what we lose as a manual tranny, front wheel driven car, I can only imagine a automatic all-wheel drive to lose 35%-40% or so.

^^ Yup an auto puts down about 135 whp