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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - SAFC 2 Install Pictures, Diagrams & Settings V6 99 Sol
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SAFC 2 Install Pictures, Diagrams & Settings V6 99 Sol

SAFC 2 Install Pictures, Diagrams & Settings V6 99 Sol

Postby Robert » Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:34 pm

Hi everyone, i know i'm new here, but it's never to soon to do a write up, I searched the site and couldn't find a truly Complete write up. So i took it upon myself to gather information from everyone here & information on our cars to make a complete all in one Install for the Gen 1, 1MZ-FE SAFC2 Install ! I hope this helps in some way shape or form. Also if you notice anything inaccurate or incomplete PLEASE don't hesitate to add.

Alright lets start from the beginning, Here are the tools you may need;
Image
1. multiple colors of extra wire ( Just in case, not necessary )
2. Cordless/Corded Power drill With Phillips bits
3. Zip Ties
4. Heat shrinky tubing
5. But crimp connectors
6. T-Taps ( These seem to be easier but some users are more comfortable with splitting, soldering & taping the connections & that method is totally reliable unless you connected something incorrectly, then it's a pain)
7. Electrical tape
8. Torch & Butane ( For heat shrink tubing )
9. Wire strippers, I recomend the self adjusting wire strippers, very nice & worth the $19

Alright, you might not need ALL of these items, but it's always good to be prepared for anything.

FIRST FIRST STEP: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL!!!
OK, First step is obviously going to be removing the Glove box,
Refer to the diagram below
Image
You will of course have to start by removing the rocker panel (door step guard)
Followed by the small strip of trim just to the right of the glove box (continued up from the end of the door sil)
After that, remove the kick panel ( has one finger nut )
followed by the A/C bezel
Then lastly unscrew the remaining screws from the glove box itself as the diagram above displays.

(the glovebox unit itself has a set of wires that are attached to a panel that snaps into the top of the glove box, All you have to do once you get the glove box out, is un snap it from the top, twist it sideways & down into the glove box then pull it up and out of the glove box)

You should end up looking like this:
Image

OKIDOKE, once you've gotten this far you're almost ready to start working
For those of you that have the optional JBL Sound system, you'll have to remove the harness plugs from the pre amp as it's wiring harness tends to be in your way. you can find this if you look up to the right of the ECU itself. ( your ECU will have 5 sets of harness's plugged into it & the pre-amp only has two )

Alright now we're ready to start Tapping that ECU
FIRST OFF, There should be two sets of wire bundles with your SAFC2
One will be the harness hardwired to the SAFC Itself, & then a Seperated bundle with a plug at one end & exposed wires at the other, You will be splicing using the second harness mentioned.

Follow this diagram below for making your taps, the box to the left is your ECU Diagram, The wires you need to worry about are colored in with the color of the wire that comes out of the ECU at that juncture. The wire color for the SAFC is labeled to the right with a line pointing to which point you tap into:

Image

Note that the brown & black wires from the SAFC should be spaced apart, with the brown closest to the ECU, Spacing should be a bout 1" apart ( this is critical, do not tap them together, no matter how lazy you are )

Secondly, the Airflow wire gets bridged through the SAFC as shown, You will cut this wire, twist or solder the end closest to the ecu to your yellow wire from the SAFC & the other end gets attached to the white wire from your SAFC. once these connections are made, get your heat shrink tubing & seal those exposed ends, then take your crimp caps & apply it to both of those peices for extra protection. it is important that you don't screw this one up as it is the one that sends the new map signal out to the engine, it's critical that you don't get these reversed, FOLLOW THE DIAGRAM READ EVERYTHING!!!

OK, now that you have all of your wires connected, you should have three wires remaining, Orange, Blue & Pink, These get nothing attached to them so shrink wrap them & cap them to keep them protected

ALRIGHT, now time to re-assemble everything & route your wiring as you see fit, but double & tripple check all of your connections, I ran my wiring up top of my glove box to mount it in front of my clock, ( i don't care what time it is :P )
Image

OK now i know you're excited & all, but DON'T start your engine yet
We need to set up your SAFC for your car. Just re-attach the battery for now.

Read the Manual Found here:
(when the pdf viewer asks, download the japanese language thing, The manual is in english, but the PDF is a Japanese Codec)
http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/15.pdf
Or here:
http://n-a-d.net/solsafc/15.pdf

Turn the Key to the On Position, Do not start the motor

Ok, here are the settings you are going to have to enter for the 99 Solara V6 1MZ-FE (i'll add a step by step manual here tomorrow for how & where to enter these, unless you can find them yourself:

Sensor Type: Hotwire : Sens. No. 12 in, 12 out

Sens. Cal. 1 in, 1 out

Car Sel: 6 cyl, Thr↑

Graph Scale: PR 760 mmHg, Ne 7000

If you bought your SAFC2 Used, you'll have to Re-Initialize the unit to factory specs, you don't need to be running on a TwinTurbo Supra's Fuel Map for an N/A v6 solara lol & the manual show exactly how to do all of this.

Don't try to tune this yourself, with everything at factory settings, your car should still be running off of the factory fuel map. Take it to someone who tunes with a Dyno & has experience tuning with this unit

OK, That was alot of typing & i hope it helps everyone.

People to thank:
Dawgz
QuickSEV6
happy_aggies
SC V6
shidosha01
flybigjet
JoeB
and Me :)

I hope i didn't leave anyone out

GOOD LUCK to everyone!

Correct me if i'm wrong on ANY of this

Quote from Afkahad Regarding the AFC NEO
the actual install for the safc2 and the neo is the exact same, only difference is the neo has two 12v ignition wires, which will both be spliced into the same wire on the ecu.
Last edited by Robert on Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:41 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Postby Dawgz » Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:45 pm

U might not wanna keep it there, as the sunlight might damage that plastic.


other than that, sweet SAFCII unit with the white display!
--=Black on Black=-- (Sold)
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Postby Robert » Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:48 pm

Dawgz wrote:U might not wanna keep it there, as the sunlight might damage that plastic.


other than that, sweet SAFCII unit with the white display!


Yah, i was having one of my shop guys street tune with it, so its a temporary mount until i get my Autometer AFR installed :D

Oh and yea, my unit is the Special Edition Black SAFC2 :D It can also display in Red

Thanks to happy_aggies
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Postby shocar4 » Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:26 pm

awesome write up! i will be needing this here before too long! thanks man!!!
99DWP SC 4psi, TRD shortshifter, 305 RC's, Jim's fuel, iK22, 190lph walbro, ssfc, 170 thermo, greddy catback!(SOLD)
99DWP SC 4psi, Injen CAI, TRD exhaust, TRD shortshifter, Jim's Fuel, Magnecore wires, NGK Iridium IX!(SOLD)
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Postby CamryOnBronze » Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:51 pm

sweet write up, Ill use this when mine comes this week! mine is the special edition white one too :D
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Postby happy_aggies » Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:57 pm

Sweet!

Glad that everything works out....
'99 Autumn Red Solara SE Auto S/C 1MZ-FE w/ JIC Exhaust
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Postby Camry Racing » Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:00 pm

I think this should be a sticky or somenthing very important write up
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Postby Robert » Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:02 pm

happy_aggies wrote:Sweet!

Glad that everything works out....


Dude, as many times as i called you... It better have worked out lol

BTW, i called jotech & they wanted $175 to install it for me, i declined

Instead i bought $175 worth of tools & wires to do it myself LOL (course that's just cause i wanted a reason for new tools ) :D
Last edited by Robert on Mon Mar 24, 2008 10:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Dawgz » Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:50 am

This install should be no more than 35$ installed from a professional. Otherwise its a rip off.

You can do it urself, like rob did.
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Postby Robert » Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:55 pm

I'm going to pair this up with the Inovate LM-1 for true wideband tuning soon, i'll do a install for that as well
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Postby 1gSE » Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:52 pm

i didn't think it would be that simple. I had a harder time installing stereos lol. Nice write up
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Postby Akfahad » Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:22 pm

this should be moved to the tutorials...very nice write up by the way!
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Postby Robert » Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:04 am

1gSE wrote:i didn't think it would be that simple. I had a harder time installing stereos lol. Nice write up


yah, i was quite suprised myself, infact i've got a keyless entry kit that's going to be MUCH more difficult to install >.< i am going to have to pay someone to do it, i just don't think i'll get it right.
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Postby Robert » Tue Apr 01, 2008 9:04 pm

Just got my lm-1 Can't wait to install it !!!
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Postby TMMK Toy » Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:17 am

Nice write up man. Very thorough and detailed. Question though, will there be any installation issues if you're running the URD rear o2 sensor simulator? Currently have one installed since I'm running a jp y pipe with high flow cat
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