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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Changing Spark Plugs on the 5s-fe
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Changing Spark Plugs on the 5s-fe

Changing Spark Plugs on the 5s-fe

Postby Yanks0114 » Wed Jun 25, 2003 3:33 pm

This was posted by a guest:

5SFE is very easy, you can complete it in 10 minutes. Just remove the top strut bar first, then pull out one of the spark plug wire (one by one, dont pull all of them out at same time). Use a socket that is for spark plug only, which has a piece of rubber in the socket. (i think its 14mm, just use your new plug to find the right size) The put it into the hole and gentlely rotate and push it. you will feel the socket fit onto the spark plug, then turn it counterclock wise. After you loose plug , just pull out out the tool and you will see the plug is nicely stay in the socket.

When you put in the new plug, go buy some lubricant for spark plug. apply some lubricant on the spark plug thread, then put the spark plug into the socket with rubber. Then put it in and thighten. I am not sure how many lb of pressure you should tighten it. Notice do NOT over tighten it, if you strip the thread inside the cylinder, then you are screwed, big time. then just put back the spark plug wire, make sure you push in tightly.

After you finish up, put your hand on top of the spark plug wire and feel if there is any unnormal unusual vibration. If so, then there is a spark plug loose

Edit: Credit Goes to UltraslowSolara for this post
Last edited by Yanks0114 on Wed Jun 25, 2003 9:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Luc » Wed Jun 25, 2003 3:49 pm

The compound used to apply on the spark plug threads is called anti-seize. I found using a used toothbrush really makes the coating even, since you don't want contact with skin. Lastly, the torque setting is 13 ft-lbs.
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Postby krook » Wed Jun 25, 2003 6:04 pm

QUESTION: if you don't use the anti-seize compound, does that affect anything? besides the fact that, removal may be a bit harder when i do have to change my spark plugs?
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Postby Turbosolara » Wed Jun 25, 2003 7:00 pm

Sorry it was my post, i did it in school.

In my first spark plug change i didnt use the anti-seize compound, nothing happen after 3000 miles. but i believe it just a insurance that you wont damage the thread.

It just my way to do my spark plug change, and thanks for Luc to help me filling those information that i missed.

I think it is important to have more to people to check the process (not only my post, but also the whole DIY section) to make it more credibly.

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Postby Yanks0114 » Wed Jun 25, 2003 9:00 pm

UltraslowSolara wrote:
I think it is important to have more to people to check the process (not only my post, but also the whole DIY section) to make it more credibly.



I agree to that too. This is mainly why its kept as an open discussion other than a website because everyone has their own means to complete the project, some being easier and safer than others
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Postby WTF?? » Thu Jun 26, 2003 12:43 pm

hahah tyte Ross caught on to my suggestion!! :D :D :D
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Postby hari-bhari » Tue Jul 01, 2003 6:22 am

socket that is for spark plug only, which has a piece of rubber in the socket


will this kind of socket say specifically on it that it is made for spark plugs? how much does it cost typically?
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Postby Yanks0114 » Tue Jul 01, 2003 12:52 pm

hari_trivedi wrote:
socket that is for spark plug only, which has a piece of rubber in the socket


will this kind of socket say specifically on it that it is made for spark plugs? how much does it cost typically?


It has a little rubber section inside of it to prevent the spark plug from breaking and yes it is specifically for spark plugs
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Postby hari-bhari » Fri Aug 01, 2003 7:34 pm

ok i went over to my friends house, his whole family is filled with mechanics, and he said he spoke to his uncle who said that i shouldnt install it myself since i dont have the proper tools. i said well i can buy that torque wrench, but he says for best results you need a caliper/caliber (sp?) that puts the electrode at the perfect distance in the socket. so he recommended i take it to a real shop where they would have this tool, otherwise my ride will be rougher and the plugs will burn out faster. any ideas?
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Postby Yanks0114 » Sat Aug 02, 2003 7:19 am

just buy pregapped spark plugs and you wont need to regap them. They should just drop in.
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Postby hari-bhari » Sat Aug 02, 2003 2:59 pm

Yanks0114 wrote:just buy pregapped spark plugs and you wont need to regap them. They should just drop in.


i bought brand new denso iridium IK20s. anyone know if these are 'pregapped'?
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Postby Yanks0114 » Sun Aug 03, 2003 10:49 am

yes they are
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Postby hari-bhari » Mon Aug 04, 2003 8:21 pm

just wanted to update you guys. i put in the new plugs, and everything went without a hitch. the rough idle problem i was having earlier is greatly reduced, and i noticed that when im stopped at a traffic light, i actually checked the rpms a few times to make sure the engine was on. the stock plugs are denso pk20s (p for platinum I assume), and the ones i put in were Denso Iridium IK20s. I think iridiums were supposed to be the best. I didnt notice a difference in performance really, but the engine sounds throatier for some reason. Anyways, drives great, and i would recommend these plugs to anyone who is due for replacement. thanks for the help guys.
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