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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Rear Drum to Disk Conversion
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Rear Drum to Disk Conversion

Rear Drum to Disk Conversion

Postby Kocho » Tue Aug 19, 2003 11:20 am

Check-out this link for instructions on converting drum to disk on a '00 Camry i4. Should be very similar (if not exactly the same) for a Solara.
Kocho
 

And here is the link ...

Postby Kocho » Tue Aug 19, 2003 11:22 am

Kocho
 

Postby Turbosolara » Tue Aug 26, 2003 4:42 pm

I had done the conversion and i think the proportion valve is not necessary. Make sure you get the hand brake line and also the vacum line UNCUT. If the pad and the disc is alright, you can just reuse it.

Also I think it is easier if you keep your own axial carrier and just swap the brake unit. Because the axial carrier bolts are really tie and once you remove it you will need to do alightment.

At regular driving it feels a little bit better, but with sudden stoping it just stop nicely
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Postby Guest » Sat Sep 13, 2003 11:49 am

if i do the disk conversion, will eric's rear disk fit?
Guest
 

Postby i20solara02i » Sat Sep 13, 2003 12:38 pm

i also did the rear disc conversion. best bang for you bucks if you want to improve stopping.


richard
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Best ask Eric...

Postby Kocho » Mon Sep 15, 2003 11:04 am

Anonymous wrote:if i do the disk conversion, will eric's rear disk fit?


Eric's rear disk is stock sized - so yes, a stock-sized rear disk for a v6 will fit since this is what you are converting to. The fronts might work too, depending on which model i4 you got - not sure about this though (some i4 with 15" stock wheels have the same size rotors as the v6, but the 14" wheels cars have smaller front rotors - 255 vs. 275 mm).

The big brake kit would be good if you do a lot of heavy braking or auto crossing. For daily drive I think it is an overkill - the v6 brakes are more than adequate (for me at least) - have not experienced brake fade yet and the ABS engages if I step on the brakes hard, so I do not need more power than what I got.

Btw, I did not swap the proportioning valve either - since I could not get definitive information of the front to rear rate in v6 vs. i4 and since the car stops jsut fine with the i4 stock one still in place...

Still love the results - very smooth (no noise or vibration) and stops better than before.
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Postby Guest » Tue Sep 30, 2003 3:00 pm

how much does it cost to do this? if it's under 500 i will go for it !

Steve :evilbat:
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Postby Turbosolara » Tue Sep 30, 2003 4:13 pm

depend on your luck to find the right parts for good price
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Postby Guest » Tue Sep 30, 2003 4:39 pm

UltraslowSolara wrote:depend on your luck to find the right parts for good price


uhmm would you be able to give me a range? how much would it be if i got all the parts for FREE? how much would it be if i got the parts for a decent price? how much would it be if i paid FULL PRICE for the parts?

sorry for all the Qs..


confused..

Steve :evilbat:
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Postby i20solara02i » Tue Sep 30, 2003 10:54 pm

Anonymous wrote:
UltraslowSolara wrote:depend on your luck to find the right parts for good price


uhmm would you be able to give me a range? how much would it be if i got all the parts for FREE? how much would it be if i got the parts for a decent price? how much would it be if i paid FULL PRICE for the parts?

sorry for all the Qs..


confused..

Steve :evilbat:


doin the conversion will cost about 500 dollars to do it. unless wut u could reuse the disc n pad then you'll save a lil. but everything should run about 500 bucks including labor at a local shop.

richard
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Postby Guest » Wed Oct 01, 2003 6:13 am

Anonymous wrote:
UltraslowSolara wrote:depend on your luck to find the right parts for good price


uhmm would you be able to give me a range? how much would it be if i got all the parts for FREE? how much would it be if i got the parts for a decent price? how much would it be if i paid FULL PRICE for the parts?

sorry for all the Qs..


confused..

Steve :evilbat:


It ran me about $250 for all parts from a junk yard form a '00 v6 with 14 on them. I used all original parts, including pads, shoes, rotors, cables...

I messed-up one of the caliper's rubber parts while cleaning it, so I had to buy a $30 caliper kit from Toyota to just replace this small piece of rubber. Plus you will need brake fluid, brake cleaner, caliper grease, some paint to cover the rust, and all the tools to do it.

If you choose to pay for installation, labor should be 2-5 hours I estimate at a good shop. If you replace the whole assembly (including axel carrier and hub) you'll pay a bit more in parts, you save an hour or two on labor, you will need an alignment, so it evens-out pretty much.

If you buy new parts from a dealer - could run you up to a $1000 bux...

If you get new pads and shoes for the parking brake - this is another $80 - $100. If you get new rotors - another $60 (for cheap aftermarket) to $xxx (for expensive fancy rotors)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed Oct 01, 2003 6:15 am

I meant 14 K miles on the junked parts - so they were in pretty good condition with minimal wear (except for the disks that had major rust and I needed to hand-remove that before the shop would take them to resurface them).
Guest
 

Postby Turbosolara » Thu Oct 02, 2003 9:49 pm

Anonymous wrote:
Anonymous wrote:
UltraslowSolara wrote:depend on your luck to find the right parts for good price


uhmm would you be able to give me a range? how much would it be if i got all the parts for FREE? how much would it be if i got the parts for a decent price? how much would it be if i paid FULL PRICE for the parts?

sorry for all the Qs..


confused..

Steve :evilbat:


It ran me about $250 for all parts from a junk yard form a '00 v6 with 14 on them. I used all original parts, including pads, shoes, rotors, cables...

I messed-up one of the caliper's rubber parts while cleaning it, so I had to buy a $30 caliper kit from Toyota to just replace this small piece of rubber. Plus you will need brake fluid, brake cleaner, caliper grease, some paint to cover the rust, and all the tools to do it.

If you choose to pay for installation, labor should be 2-5 hours I estimate at a good shop. If you replace the whole assembly (including axel carrier and hub) you'll pay a bit more in parts, you save an hour or two on labor, you will need an alignment, so it evens-out pretty much.

If you buy new parts from a dealer - could run you up to a $1000 bux...

If you get new pads and shoes for the parking brake - this is another $80 - $100. If you get new rotors - another $60 (for cheap aftermarket) to $xxx (for expensive fancy rotors)


Thats incorrect. I think not to swap the axle carrier is the fastest and cheapest way. you just need to take out the disc/drum and take out 4 small bolts, then the whole brake unit will come out. If you are going to swap the axle carrier, you are going to deal with 4 or 6 pain in the ass big bolts and bad alighment.
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Postby Solaradude » Tue Oct 07, 2003 9:13 pm

ok.......i got myself confused with this axel barrier etc etc....

so what do i need to get for the conversion?

1.Brak calipers
2. Discs

and what else??

Steve :evilbat:
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Postby Solaradude » Fri Oct 10, 2003 3:44 pm

Ok this junk yard next to my house offered me 250 for all of the parts that i need for this conversion.

The parts are coming off of 1997 Toyota Camry XLE (4 cyl, ABS) 70K

:)

Is this a good deal or what?

Steve :evilbat:
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