Need help...by-pass actuator problem?

[Astro]

My mechanic over at UPFD is having problems with the by-pass. He says at 80+% throttle the by-pass stays open and there is signifcant power loss. The Kazuma shows it being capped off, while the supplement shows it with a 3mm hose running to the vacuum switching valve (vsv).
Can someone tell me what should be done? Or could there be another problem?

This is the only thing left, the oil leak is fixed. I've got my ss brakelines and I'll get my new rotors and pads on Thursday. Man, I hope I can finally drive my baby by this weekend!

[Vampire]

A week late but... Anyway, the Kazuma install manual always had some vacuum lines blocked off and you were supposed to test the vehicle. Then the EBC installation supplement had you connect the bypass valve to the VSV assembly that was originally used for the ACIS to control boost modulation. If you run the EBC, the bypass valve vacuum hose needs to go to the VSV valve. I don't run the EBC so I have a vacuum hose going directly from the barb under the SC neck to the bypass valve. Therefore, boost becomes load dependent and is more useable.

[CASTRO]

vampire, could you explain a bit more on exactly how you wired up your hoses? I have mine wired up as it said to in the supplement guide and would like to try it out your style. What changes would I have to make to the; EBC wiring hose connections etc?

And would I still be safe with a boost cutoff @ redline/between shifts?

[bunthy]

yeah, could explain a bit more, cause I have have the same problem as Astro. When I gun it to get on the freeway, it sounds as if the engine stops, then a click is heard -> then the car starts to go....its so weird....

Could you get some pix of the vacuum line from the by-pass to the VSV and the ports where you capped offed? I'm running it in a 96 avalon, so the lines a bit off. Any pixs would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

[Vampire]

I tried to look at your profile but I can only guess that you have an automatic. Right? Anyway, I don't want to host pics but I'll shoot a pic to you. It' s not clear because the throttle body stuff is in the way but there is a sizeable barb at the bottom of the SC neck right after the throttle body. It provides vacuum to the small tank located under the battery, which in turn provides a vacuum reservoir for the VSV to use for the actual modulation of the bypass valve. I took the EBC and VSV operation out of the equation by just taking some 8 or 10 mm vacuum hose and connected the barb right to the bypass valve actuator. What that does is allow the actuator to function in response to manifold vacuum/pressure. When you press the gas pedal enough or put a load on the engine, the vacuum decreases and the actuator closes so you are boosting. This, of course means that you get boost on demand when you need it (under load) versus when the EBC says you can have it.

I have a 5 spd and when I am lazy and need to pass someone but don't want to downshift, I have gotten boost as low as 1800 rpms when I gas it. I did the same thing to my wifes automatic for 2 1/2 years with no problems at all but you need to realize that she was always at stock boost. I also never put a tranny cooler on there either. I DO NOT recommend this if you go higher than stock boost unless you get your auto tranny worked on (valve body mod...) or if your tranny has not been maintained well, has a lot of miles etc.

I have tested my 5 spd to rev limit and as soon as the rev limit was reached the fuel was cut, the pressure turned to vacuum and the actuator opened. No problems. I have actually hit rev limit about a half dozen times with no problems. I do feel that the EBC is probably a litlle safer because fuel cut and bypass opening occur simultaneously versus just fuel cut and then a split second later the bypass opens due to vacuum. If it makes you feel better, Jim at Foreign Affairs has been running full time boost forever with no problems.

Ultimately it's your call. Do what makes you feel comfortable. I do suggest you at least try it and see how you like it. If you don't shift manually, you will probably never hit rev limit in an auto when you test it out.

[CASTRO]

OMG... I just rerouted the hoses as said above and in the original s/c manual and the difference is intense! I get varied boost all day long depending on how I step on the throttle vs. hoping to see boost using the supplement install. Thanks Vampire

[Paladin06Greg]

Yes you will get a noticeable difference but you better have a tranny cooler or you are headed for trouble in short time and you may be with one. Also make sure you read and understand why TRD spent thousands of dollars on engineering the EBC. It wasn't just to get your money.

Good luck.

OMG... I just rerouted the hoses as said above and in the original s/c manual and the difference is intense! I get varied boost all day long depending on how I step on the throttle vs. hoping to see boost using the supplement install. Thanks Vampire

[Vampire]

Glad to hear you like it. It seems that's the way the SC was meant to work. I see from your sig you have a tranny cooler. Just do your regular tranny flushes and stay at stock boost.

OMG... I just rerouted the hoses as said above and in the original s/c manual and the difference is intense! I get varied boost all day long depending on how I step on the throttle vs. hoping to see boost using the supplement install. Thanks Vampire

[CASTRO]

Hey Vampire, do you have the EBC hooked up to your car at all? I dont know if I should take it out or leave it in after rerouting the hoses. Only change I made was to skip all the vacuume canisters/extra hoses and go from the barb to the actuator. My understanding was that the EBC was put into place to "reprogram" the functionality of what once was used for the AICS (sp?) valve flap. BTW, Ever since I did the hoses like this, my CEL lights have disappeared. *crosses fingers*

[Vampire]

I never had the EBC on the Solara ever but it's a 5 spd. It was on my wife's auto Camry for like 2 years but not the last 2-3 years. You can leave the EBC installed if you like. It just doesn't do anything. I actually used plugs on the ACIS VSV and removed the vacuum tank and the associated hoses.

Now about your CEL. I don't know why that would happen. What Cel were you getting?

Hey Vampire, do you have the EBC hooked up to your car at all? I dont know if I should take it out or leave it in after rerouting the hoses. Only change I made was to skip all the vacuume canisters/extra hoses and go from the barb to the actuator. My understanding was that the EBC was put into place to "reprogram" the functionality of what once was used for the AICS (sp?) valve flap. BTW, Ever since I did the hoses like this, my CEL lights have disappeared. *crosses fingers*

[Paladin06Greg]

Guys, the EBC is for the auto/tranny not the 5 speed.

[CASTRO]

Vampire-Actually, with the supplement hosing setup, I would constantly get a p0171 (lean) code when im NOT on the throttle, but instead idling. Sometimes it happens right before I come to a stop and I am not on the accelerator. Weird because I never get it while on the gas or boosting. My only thought is that the injen+cai ext. is sending a false signal as my friend Simon (who had the s/c before me) experienced the same situation. I have allready ordered the jims fuel upgrade and expect it within a couple of days. Until then, I went ahead and redid the hoses a couple of days ago. Since then I haven't experienced a single CEL.

Greg-hmmm interesting, but on a 5sp solara that I recently checked out at the last meet, he had it dealer installed with the EBC+supplement hosing. I know that the EBC is wired differently for auto/manual where I believe the purple wire is grounded for manual which auto it goes to the ECU somewhere.

[Paladin06Greg]

The new TRD Superchargers with EBC (electronic boost control) are designed to boost engine performance of the Toyota 1MZFE engines in the Camry (97-00), Solara (99-00) and Sienna (98-00). The basic supercharger system is street and emissions legal and includes a pulley designed to provide a maximum boost of 4 psi, max horsepower of 276 hp and max torque of 271 lb.ft (all figures at flywheel). The basic kit boasts horsepower gains of 70 hp and 62 ft-lb of torque: translating to a 40% increase in power. Utilizing Toyota/TRD Champ Car technology, the supercharger’s EBC modulates boost at two critical points- between shifts and when the ECU goes into rev limiter mode. This reduces automatic transmission wear and provides additional engine detonation protection.

[Vampire]

Straight out of the manual. Both the auto and 5 spd trannys are supposed to have the EBC installed. It's not just for the auto.

This mod must be done with caution as I stated above. Don't go above stock boost and make sure you have consistently maintained your tranny. I called TRD a long time ago and asked why the EBC. They said that under consistent hard driving, the clutches showed a little more wear than normal. That was under long term extreme conditions with no oil changes.

I have done this for years on a 5 spd and auto with no problems but I also maintain my vehicle. Jim at Foreign Affairs has run full time boost on an auto with only a tranny cooler for years on 7 psi. It is a choice you make like any mod to your car.

If you really want to be safe, you run a cooler and do the valve body mod like Joe a few others have done.

[Vampire]

I know of a few people who put intakes on and ran lean too. My guess is the intake also. It would be great if you had an OBDII data logger to monitor your fuel trims. I bet you are on the lean side at the idle area. My wife's car had great fuel trims but at idle the ECU was adding 15% to the fuel mixture. All the cars run great stock but there seem to be few that are prone to lean conditions. Besides Jim's fuel mod, I would suggest the regulator mod too.