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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Since there's all this turbo talk...
For those looking for more speed through force. Forced Induction; Supercharger,Turbocharger or Nitrous discussion and maintenance.

Since there's all this turbo talk...

Postby 1gSE » Sat Aug 22, 2009 6:48 pm

its a stock crappy bosch diverter valve. I think it came on Saabs, older Porsche's and VW 1.8t's. It opens when it supposed to (as soon and the TB close and the engine goes into vacuum) but at certain points (low vacuum IIRC) it's actually open a small amount....bringing in unfiltered air through the same place it discharges. In normal operations on the cars it came on, it wouldn't matter since it's plumbed into the intake. In my case since it's going to be vented to the atmosphere, it would need a filter for those times when it's not completely closed. I've seen guys run this same DV unfiltered with no problems, but I feel better with a filter on it. If it fails, i'll up grade to a Forge BOV, ofr a 1g DSM DV. I'd really like an HKS SSQV, but i don't feel like paying 200 for it when this is a budget set up.
Last edited by 1gSE on Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby JamesT » Sat Aug 22, 2009 7:50 pm

1gSE wrote:
:o holy sh*t!!! Great prices, thanks for the hook up :sweet:


Not a problem!

I got everything I needed for my relocation from there - everything is new and really good quality.
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Postby GreenSolara01 » Sun Aug 23, 2009 4:03 pm

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Postby 1gSE » Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:40 pm

moving along slowly....

So i decided to re-clock the turbo. With the way it comes off the cummins engine, if i were to mount it the way i planned, the oil wouldn't drain properly. Backed up oil = f*cked turbo. I only needed to turn it about an inch. The problem was all those years the CHRA and cast iron turbine housing spent in the same position. So for 2 days i soaked that mofo in wd40 and hammered on it. Nothing budged. Last night i bought some PB blaster, drowned it before i went to sleep, and before i went to work today. My apartment f*ckin reeks of that stuff. I beat it for a lil bit (the turbo you sick bastards lol) and i started to see "cleaner" cast iron on the CHRA. Eventually i beat it off.... :lol: the turbine housing.

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The turbine wheel is in great shape, but dirty as f*ck. Oh btw, this is the good turbo, not the one that needs a rebuild.

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But there's a problem...one bad swing and i hit the compressor back plate :o

OUCH!

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It also cracked

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So the moral of this story is.....use a dead blow and not a hammer. Or better yet, just take the dam back plate off. I would have done that, but Holset decided to put their turbos together with the bolts in the dumbest places imaginable, and some retard decided to bend the tabs over on the bolts, making it impossible to get a wrench on them. I could have bent them back but i don't have all the tools i need here.

Good thing i have 2 of these bad boys

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In other news...my wastegate will be here monday. Now i'm gonna say something that most people probably won't agree with here, but just hear me out (puts on flame suit anyway) After tons of research and seeing what others have done on other forums, i decided to go this route because 1...i don't care about name brand as long as it holds up and 2....its cheaper. I'm all about doing stuff on the cheap, but properly. So here's the deal. I bought my wastegate on ebay...cheap, no name brand (emusa), for 60 bux shipped. Dam near all external wastegates are made on the same design (depending on size) and it's not like mine a knock off claiming to be a tial or turbonetics etc etc. The problem with ebay wastegates is the spring, the diaphragm and the valve stem. The springs sometimes aren't what psi they claim to be and the diaphragms are made with a cheaper material and the valve sometimes sticks closed causing and overboost/lean condition and then the engine goes boom. IMHO, if the driver can't tell his car is pulling harder or notice the boost gauge reading a lot more than normal....then it's his own dam fault for not catching it. So the fix for all this is very simple. Replace the spring with a Tial spring (about $30) replace the diaphragm with a tial piece(about $50), and take a minute or two to sand the valve stem, put it back together and slap it on. So now I have a brand new wastegate for about $140 vs $220+ for the big name piece. I've also seen some guys run the ebay piece as-is for thousands of miles with no problems
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Postby GzNutz » Fri Sep 18, 2009 3:07 pm

Glad to see you're getting closer! Thats pretty cool to know you can just upgrade the internals of the ebay bov.
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Postby 1gSE » Mon Sep 21, 2009 3:52 pm

wastegate came in today :D

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