Pivot Bolt replacement..DONE!

[RON]

Well, I found a shop in Sana Ana Ca that specializes in stripped/broken bolt removal. I've had the Alternator pivot bolt stripped out for around 7 years now and it's *time* for a new one. Should the alternator go out I'm in trouble. Belt replacement has been a big hastle and it can't be adjusted.

If anyone here knows how to move the alternator (for belt installation and adjustment) with the pivot bolt frozen...let me know. As far as I can tell, in addition to the pivot bolt, you have the ADJUSTOR LOCKING BOLT and the ADJUSTING BOLT. The locking bolt is attatched to the alternator and lets it side up and down the bracket, locking it in position. The adjusting bolt is attatched to the bracket and determines the position (belt tension) of the alternator itself. I guess there's no way to MOVE the alernator at all with the PIVOT BOLT stripped?

Anyway, here is a pic of the ADJUSTMENT LOCKING BOLT (below in the metal block), the slotted bracket itself, and the ADJUSTING BOLT on top.

[jetbtkng]

heat it up, tap it with a hammer a few times spray it with some anti sieze, repeat process a couple times, it may come loose, same as when trying to break loose an old pipe when doing a plumbing job..................

[RON]

Going to try this first:

Found a shop to do some WELDING

I'm going to try and weld one of the following to the head of the stripped Pivot bolt:



I like the HEX bit welded in best. BTW, try and find one of these in the store ..it's 6mm and most places only start at 7mm. You can get them in kits, however.

Here is NEW set up

[RON]

Titanium bolt from alltrac92 is in! Fit perfectly.

We welded on bolt with the threaded portion welded on the head of the pivot bolt, leaving the head for turning. Worked like a charm. Just a heads up for anyone who does this.....COVER the pulleys with a RAG first! I found some slag dust in the pulleys and had to scrape/blow it off them. Another *glitch* was the that the DOG BONE bolt was stripped and we had to scurry around the shop for a replacement. I put on a new belt..decided on the new Dayco *W* design (over the *PIX* belt I posted about in another thread). I recommend getting a Krikit 1 tension gage (not the 2, since it has a 100-300 range) to check. It's only $11 at Rock Auto. See the thread on the *rattling belt* for a pic. The manual calls for 120LBs on the NEW belt and 70-90Lbs after break in (which is the first 15 Min of running the belt).

[jetbtkng]

when you have the new dayco on for a while let us know how its working ron...................

[RON]

when you have the new dayco on for a while let us know how its working ron...................

Roger. So far it's SMOOTH a silk. I think Dayco stopped making the *Cogged* multirib belt a while back (looked like Gatorback knock off). I don't know why. I actually had that belt which was sent to me as a spare around 6-7 years ago. I had to ditch it, since it was WAY too big for me (88.5"). I think it was designed for a car with the tensioner set up, which I don't have. Anyway, in it's place they came out with this *W* version. It's designed for cars with higher milage on the pulleys and the ribs *flex* with the slight imperfections that the pullys develop over time.

[alltrac92]

Did the Torx feel like it fit tighter in the head versus an Allen?

[RON]

Did the Torx feel like it fit tighter in the head versus an Allen?

No...about the same. The 6 mm Allen really fits snug and I think it sinks tad deeper than the torx. Thing is, the spec on torqing that bolt really isn't that great...maybe 30lbs? You really don't have to tighten the crap out of it. I just made it very *snug* and didn't measure it. The alternator is pretty much held in place by the Adjusting Locking Bolt itself. When I pulled the old bolt..the alternator didn't budge until I loosened the adjusting bolt.

They key here is the *strip* factor, ie, how likely is that head to strip vs the hex head?
Also, I think the hex heads were stripping due to 1) Over tightening and 2) Using a NON METRIC allen like 7/32" (.219") vs 6mm (.236"). I'm pretty sure a lot of techs used the 7/32 to tighten it....thus stripping .

With the Torx, they can't do that (for those not doing DIY). I love the bolt you found..a *work of art*, but I think if it was the same material as original with the Torx head, the basic *problem* would have been solved for the reasons stated. Anyway..Thanks again!