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Okaay so sorry about the long write up

i recently bought a S/C off the for sale section and i've been trying to figure out what i should do first. but first a little background...
gen 1.5 V6 5speed
current engine mods:
-injen SRI
-custom 2.5" exhaust w/ stock pre muff delete
-TB spacer

so not much done but i do have 165K on the odometer i change oil every 3-4,000 miles with mobil-1 synthetic and a k&n filter. ever since the car ticked over 165K i've been experiencing some "tapping" from the valvetrain when i drive. now this only happens most noticably around 2K rpm as a slight tapping/ ticking noise. and when i go WOT at around 2-3K rpm it almost sounds like my injen intake is rattling around the throttle body, this sounds like marbles being shaken up in wooden box(weird i know). it goes away at WOT after i go above 3,500 rpm. i think its my buckets and maybe i just need a valve adjustment/ re-shim. i have read that the buckets can creat a dimple in the center but idk. i can do this myself (measure and replace if need be) but i am a full time student and work 5days a week so i haven't had time to take apart my valve covers. AND im a automotive student and can;t find the time lol.

BUT the thing i've noticed while driving is that i only hear the tapping when i drive lightly and when i stick my head under the hood i can't hear the tapping, it's most noticeable in the car or when i drive or next to a barrier that echos the sound outside the car. so maybe its the rear bank that has the problem but im not sure.
has anyone had this problem or am i nuts??? i run 5w-30, and this wasn't an issue over the summer. i don't beat on the car until its warmed up fully and since i started hearing it ive been driving like my grandmother. COULD IT BE THE COLD WEATHER??? i live in New England and thought it could be the drop in temps and cold metal on metal noises. but i've driven the car on long trips and i can still hear the tapping after running the car for 6+ hours. SHOULD I TRY A HEAVIER OIL?? sooner or later i will measure my clearance.


SO i may hold off on putting the S/C on for now. i really dont want to damage my engine right off the bat. Thoughts on this????

my S/C kit has 4psi pulley and comes with a EBC. im not sure if i should install the EBC or not. ive read that i don't need it but wonder if in my case i should install it. i also think i should replace all my engine and tranny mounts since they are original.

i do plan on getting a meth kit and moving onto 6psi but i will wait until i have all the proper upgrades. i also just bought a AEM AFR gauge. ive read i can go WITHOUT a piggy back for now since its only 1psi up from factory boost. i'll be buying a apexi neo asap.

SO TO SUM IT UP:
-i want to run 4psi with no piggy back for now
-debating on installing the EBC
-and have a possible valve tapping/ valve lash/ worn bucket problem

ANY ADVICE WOULD BE AWESOME!!!!! im just itching to go fast at this point

at a 165k its kinda iffy to boost your engine. especially if your getting a valve tap, check it out before you do anything. If your going to pull out the heads and get them done again. I'd recomend changing out piston rings a good hone job, mls gaskets, arp studs, but thats if you get in there.

At the mileage your at now its kinda hard to tell how long this engine will last boosted. I beleive 1gse boosted his engine at around the same mileage, but i dont think he had any issues with his block or heads, he also ran meth right off the bat i beleive but thats becuase he went with 5.5lbs.

Check the valves first and let us know your findings.

Yeah, mine went on at 168k. I suggest figuring out the problem first

1gSE wrote:Yeah, mine went on at 168k. I suggest figuring out the problem first

the engine went or the heads?

sliDingSolAra... wrote:

1gSE wrote:Yeah, mine went on at 168k. I suggest figuring out the problem first

the engine went or the heads?

He meant his supercharger went at 168k

I thought the EBC was kind of redundant on a 5spd because you won't be boosting while your on the clutch and off the gas. The problem is with automatics, the engine keeps revving and boosting while the tranny is shifting gears which tears everything up. The other thing the EBC does is cut boost in first gear which seems lame if you really want to drive hard. I have an auto and I just installed a S/C in without the EBC, but I did put a tranny cooler behind my front bumper and redline hightemp ATF. But I also have a 5spd I am waiting to put in this summer, so I'm not that worried about my auto tranny. Good Luck, you'll love the charger!

I would also recommend buying a piggy back that will let you tune your closed loop. While it might not be that important now, you'll need it as soon as you want to go bigger. You'll want to go bigger

#1: Are you 100% sure it;s the valves and not a crack/leak int he exhaust? A leak in the exhaust, espetially close to the engine can sometimes sound liek that. And only being around 2k RPM's makes me think it;s that or a heat shield loose.

#2: I had my car boosted from about 110k-160k miles. I drove the everliving crap out of it. 20k miles was at 6PSI untuned. I swapped the engine not becuase it died, but it was starting to burn a little oil even though it ran fine. So honestly, as long as the engine has been perfectly maintained, you shouldn't have a problem at 4PSI at all (assuming your noise is NOT valve tab.

I would recomend putting in a Walbro 190 or equivalent and the Jim's Fuel Mod along with the SC. Thats basically all.

ASG14 wrote:#1: Are you 100% sure it;s the valves and not a crack/leak int he exhaust? A leak in the exhaust, espetially close to the engine can sometimes sound liek that. And only being around 2k RPM's makes me think it;s that or a heat shield loose.

I would recomend putting in a Walbro 190 or equivalent and the Jim's Fuel Mod along with the SC. That's basically all.

discovered a small pin hole leak on my headers, probably from when i crack one. i need to unburying my welder to seal it up. hopefully this is the cause of the "tapping"

so i installed the s/c and its operating with no problems. i put in an AEM boost gauge, happy to find that i am in fact running 4psi and at times boost peaks at 5-6psi.... i even saw 7psi on my first test drive!

now to be honest i was expecting a little more getty up after installing. when i romp on it i sometimes experience some lag for a second but then i feel the car jerk into boost. i think it may be the bypass valve sticking but im not sure or possibly the belt.

ALSO my gas mileage took a big ole' crap. i'm assuming i'm running very lean in top end because the car barely pulls after certain point, it almost feels NA at higher rpm. i don't even get power until 3500rpm before that i get 3psi then @ 3500k 4psi. seems like a fuel problem since i threw trouble codes for both banks running lean. im buying a APEXI neo and not far after that a walboro 190 BUT at idle and low speeds the exhaust is super rich smelling

get a wideband ASAP and stop stomping on it before you throw a rod

Sounds like you're on your way to blowing up that engine.

Eye8Pussies wrote:get a wideband ASAP and stop stomping on it before you throw a rod

i have a afr gauge but need to weld in bunge for it.

i've stopped mashing the throttle and pretty much stopped driving it. if i neeed to take it out i don't go above 3k rpm. from my research ive done i think i should be relatively safe since theres no boost and the bypass is open at those speeds. i might take off the s/c until i get a piggyback to tune it.

seems like if i keep driving like this i will blow up if i keep boosting with no tune. let me know if im on the right track, piggyback is in the mail and i need to find a fuel mod

your safest bet right now if you want to drive your car is to unhook the vacuum hose from the actuator and just zip tie it open so that it is always bypassed. Then, your car should drive as though it doesn't have a supercharger on it at all

Eye8Pussies wrote:your safest bet right now if you want to drive your car is to unhook the vacuum hose from the actuator and just zip tie it open so that it is always bypassed. Then, your car should drive as though it doesn't have a supercharger on it at all

thank you Eye8, i'll do this for now and drive conservatively. i ended up taking the back roads home last night rather than jumping on the highway. i may end up taking out the s/c until i get all the parts i need to fix my lean problem

so i got my apexi neo and was reading the instructions/ searching the forum on how to install it. i found a good write for a safc II and the thread said it applies for the Neo as well.

now i've been searching all day and can't find the answer. the wire harness that you patch into the ECU has TWO green wires (one is a lighter green than the other). i'm not sure which wire i connect to the green ecu wire for the RPM signal.

here's the thread: http://solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=39195&hilit=safc+install