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OMFG, Thats where they did the flippin body ground? $425?!?!?!?!?! Really?!?!?!?

ASG14 wrote:OMFG, Thats where they did the flippin body ground? $425?!?!?!?!?! Really?!?!?!?

Yeah, but they doubled the ground. It's grounded in the trunk, and they also ran the ground all the way back to the engine bay where it was originally grounded.

I got three quotes from shops, they were the cheapest! One shop quoted me $600, and another almost $800!!!!

wow! that teaser looks insane dude! looking forward to seeing this done. Mine is slowly coming along as well. Ive been thinking of just running an m90 intercooled, with a 75 shot.

SirThomas88 wrote:

ASG14 wrote:OMFG, Thats where they did the flippin body ground? $425?!?!?!?!?! Really?!?!?!?

Yeah, but they doubled the ground. It's grounded in the trunk, and they also ran the ground all the way back to the engine bay where it was originally grounded.

I got three quotes from shops, they were the cheapest! One shop quoted me $600, and another almost $800!!!!

Hate to dwell on this subject but as a very experienced 12v tech i HAVE to ask...

1. Is there a fuse or circuit breaker in the trunk? (please tell me its hiding behind the battery!)
2. What exactly is the isolator isolating? The ground is connected to 1 side and nothing on the other...
3. Why is the ground cable 4ga but the power is 1/0ga?
4. Same question as ASG - Why is the main ground not going to the frame?

Running the ground to the front is hardly necessary, and a waste of wire. Your local shops are taking you for a ride, theres no way they can justify $425 (much less $800) in materials and labor and have it look like that....

Very excited about the rest of your build man - cant wait to see how it turns out!

Really good .

SolaraPete wrote:
Hate to dwell on this subject but as a very experienced 12v tech i HAVE to ask...

1. Is there a fuse or circuit breaker in the trunk? (please tell me its hiding behind the battery!)
2. What exactly is the isolator isolating? The ground is connected to 1 side and nothing on the other...
3. Why is the ground cable 4ga but the power is 1/0ga?
4. Same question as ASG - Why is the main ground not going to the frame?

Running the ground to the front is hardly necessary, and a waste of wire. Your local shops are taking you for a ride, theres no way they can justify $425 (much less $800) in materials and labor and have it look like that....

Very excited about the rest of your build man - cant wait to see how it turns out!

It's cool I appreciate your questions! Especially from someone with experience in this (because I dont).

1. They located a circuit breaker in the engine bay.
2. The isolator currently isn't isolating anything. They left it that way so I could isolate the battery only if I was having draining issues.
3. I don't know why, except that maybe because they grounded it in the front as well.
4. Because they are idiots? I dunno. Is that a bad spot? I mean the trunk well is welded to the frame afterall, isn't it? Should have the same effect. I dont know, you tell me!

The circuit breaker in the engine bay is great but you NEED one in the back (within 12in of the battery). If something causes that wire to short between the front and back of the car, there is nothing to stop the current flow from the battery. This usually results in lots of sparks and/or a fire.

I still dont understand why they put in the battery isolator. Unless you plan to add a 2nd battery at some point, it doesnt serve a purpose. As far as battery drain issues go, you shouldnt have any if its all wired properly

The 'front-to-back' 4ga ground wire is redunant. You should have any ground wires that were connected at the front neg post connected to the oem grounding point for the front battery. Then, the rear battery should have a ground wire (the same gauge as the power wire) connected to the main chassis. The spare tire well is thin metal, not really a good grounding spot for an amp much less your battery. You also want your battery ground as short as possible - long lengths of wire make poor grounds.


Feel free to pm me if you need some help man - i really hope $425 included the battery cuz i just dont see that amount of parts and labor here...

Great advice where were you when I was posting and doing research about my battery relocation before I started? :p

I'll put it on my to do list to move the circuit breaker from the engine bay to the trunk and also to relocate the ground wire in the trunk, and to confirm they grounded the original battery ground in the engine bay properly and all that.

In fact, I think I'll just tell them to fix their crap!!

Too bad you're not closer or i'd just fix it for you myself!

And to be clear - keep the breaker up front, just add one in the back to protect the battery.

Pete, do you still have my number? I have some electrical gremlins you might help with lol.

Btw, cars making awesome progress! Haven't read too thoroughly but it looks like everything is going smoothly.

Suscribed as well, can't wait to see you twincharged. -__- I definitately gotta go to Maine and see Gabe for my Camry.

Car is now being disassembled and all parts have been purchased, except for the gauges I'll need. Prolly going to go with an expensive PLX Devices gauge package including their DM-100 digital multi-gauge and a bunch of their sensor modules for intake temp, fluid temp, and others.

SirThomas88 wrote:Car is now being disassembled and all parts have been purchased, except for the gauges I'll need. Prolly going to go with an expensive PLX Devices gauge package including their DM-100 digital multi-gauge and a bunch of their sensor modules for intake temp, fluid temp, and others.

Saw your car in person at gabes a month ago. Very nice set up you have, also saw your new engine on its stand. It's gonna be epic!!!

SirThomas88 wrote:Car is now being disassembled and all parts have been purchased, except for the gauges I'll need. Prolly going to go with an expensive PLX Devices gauge package including their DM-100 digital multi-gauge and a bunch of their sensor modules for intake temp, fluid temp, and others.

Awesome man! Looking forward to seeing your build come along!

ToyoSolV6 wrote:

SirThomas88 wrote:Car is now being disassembled and all parts have been purchased, except for the gauges I'll need. Prolly going to go with an expensive PLX Devices gauge package including their DM-100 digital multi-gauge and a bunch of their sensor modules for intake temp, fluid temp, and others.

Awesome man! Looking forward to seeing your build come along!

Thanks dude!

I miss my car!!! I want to cry...