S-afc install...

[krook]

joe:

i think in the S-AFC I MANUAL our car is listed in there as "soarer". i looked it up on the apexi website. also, my gf's mom (who speaks fluent Japanese) translated some of the manual for me and she found the "sorara" in there. not sure what page though....but it's in there!

what i want to know is: should i set up the CAR SELECT, and SENSOR TYPE up now? my throttle monitor is not reading any numbers. is it because i haven't set it up CAR SELECT or SENSOR TYPE yet??

[happy_aggies]

No... Soarer is Lexus SC300/400.
The SC 300 uses 3.0 inline not V6 different from Solara.

[krook]

whoops! my bad. . .well, i looked at the column for engine code and i found the 1MZ-FE but it doesn't really match the next column: year. it might just be the listing for Camry cuz it goes back to 1988. should i use this to determine my setting?

i.e. Hot Wire, Flap, Pressure, Karman

[JoeB]

I just called APEXi and they said that they have not tested the S-AFC I or II with the Toyota Camry or Solara. Therefore, they have no configuration information. So I'm back to begging and pleading. Someone figured out this application. Many people have them installed. Can someone please, please, please document the settings for us and post them. If you had it installed by a shop that might have the information would you share their contact information. If you have one installed, you can just go through the menus and write down what the settings are under settings and ETC. Anyone, please? I'm dying to get my 6psi pulley installed but don't want to do it until I get the S-AFC-II installed.

[happy_aggies]

I got mine installed but I have not play w/ any settings yet.
So far I can see the rpm, throtle %, etc.

Trust me, leave it to the pro, messing w/ Air / Fuel w/o knowing what you are doing can/will harm the engine.

I am waiting for the xerd header, once installed I'll do dyno tune.

[flybigjet]

These are the settings I used on my '99 Solara 1MZ-FE 5-speed. I *believe* they're the same as what Area 51 and ELP came up with, but it's been a long time, so no promises. WARNING: Fuel percentages will vary due to modifications (so use a dyno- you've been warned) as well as elevation (my car lives at 5300').

All other settings should be the same.

Sensor Type: Hotwire

Sens. No. 12 in, 12 out

Sens. Cal. 1 in, 1 out

Car Sel: 6 cyl, Thr↑

Graph Scale: PR 760 mmHg, Ne 7000

High Throttle: 21%

Low Throttle: 0%

Throttle Pt: Lo: 10%, Hi: 40%

Hope it helps. R.

PS. The wiring diagram that's floating around is from when I emailed it into the boards a few years ago- it still has the check marks that I made by each connection as I went along. Thought it was pretty funny to see it again. R.

[JoeB]

Rod, thanks for the info. I was too impatient and used the info that I was able to find and made the best of it. I did the install then took it to have the final touches put on it during a dyno tune by a pro. Thanks to all who helped. -JoeB

[kondo]

Here are my settings I posted them a long time ago in a thread and no one ever responded
http://www.zer0.info/solaraguy/viewtopi ... highlight=

Here are the setting off of my SAFC I am not sure how well they will work with someone elses car. I have SC with 5.5 psi pulley greddy evo and injen intake on a 99 SLE. I currently am running the stock pulley but I dont think it matters since both my knock sensors are blown.

Setting Hi-Thrtl
1000rpm +0%
3000rpm +2%
4000rpm +2%
4500rpm -3%
5000rpm +2%
5500rpm -10%
6000rpm +3%
6500rpm +2%

The Lo-Thrl is flat
Option 3 Th-Poinit is at Lo 10% Hi 50%

Good luck but be carefull again I don't know how well this will work for anyone, these are just the settings on my S-AFC.

Nick

[JoeB]

Thanks Nick. I wasn't really looking for the fuel map. I understand that is going to be different for every car. I had mine adjusted on the dyno by a pro with a WB-O2 sensor. I was looking for all of the other settings. I'm comfortable I have it mostly set now.

Sorry to hear about your knock sensors. You still need your fuel map set correctly with your knock sensors blown. With the CEL, the computer puts the car in safe mode, retards the timing a little and whatever else to protect the engine. The problem is, if you run too rich, you will get carbon build-up. Too lean and you risk detonation or pre-ignition.

Just out of curiosity, did you do the "Knock Signal Correction" on page 38 of the manual? I'd love to figure out why some people have trouble with their knock sensors. I know some people think the person that dyno tunes your car will completely setup your AFC. Not true in all cases. What they are focused on is adjusting is the High Map air-fuel mixture. There are a number of other adjustments that should be done when it is installed and adjustments may be needed as you change your engine setup. -JoeB

[kondo]

I had my knock sensors replaced a few months ago that was a really old post. I have had my car re-dynoed for the normal pully so now all my fuel numbers are different. Ever since my last dyno my car has run great and I have not had any issues with the CEL. I am affraid to change anything else on my car now though (headers,CAI) because I am still not sure how my knock sensors blew in the first place. I think it happened the first time that I installed a 6psi pulley but it could have been the 5.5 one and the lack of a SAFC. Either way my knock sensors were blown before I had the SAFC tuned

[all_red]

I know this is some kinda stupid question, but what are knock sensors?

[JoeB]

I know this is some kinda stupid question, but what are knock sensors?

I'll take a stab at this. I know it's bad form to use the word in the definition but, oh well. There are 2 sensors that detect knock in the system. Knock = pre-ignition or detonation, gasses in the chamber being ignited before the piston is in the optimum travel position. If the piston is still on it's way up and the gasses ignite, it can crack the piston (oposing force), brake a rod and more. The sensor picks up the knock and sends a level signal to the ECU. The ECU will send a signal to retard the timing to protect the engine. You also lose power. If the sensor blows, that signal is sent to the ECU also telling it to operate in safe mode because it can't determine the level any more. -JoeB

[all_red]

Thank you JoeB. So you might need to replace them when you have forced induction, right?

[JoeB]

Not necessarily replace them, only if they get damaged. They are just damaged much more easily with more boost. 4psi seems very safe, especially with decent gas. 5.5psi and above is high risk and should have air/fuel controlled by a computer. -JoeB

[krook]

what wire did you guys tap for the throttle wire? mines doesn't seem to be reading anything...