Mods or replacements for 3MZ intake systems?

[panic]

Continued from "Parts listing" as a new thread:
I'm looking for a cold air kit for my G2 3.3, but all the leads I track down described as "cold air" are simply aftermarket open sided filters at the end of a curved extension.

Is there a product out there?

Some of what is claimed and posted about intakes is complete rubbish. In general, there are a few things that may help:
1. new tube has larger radii and/or diameter than original plumbing - improves air volume
2. the tube (and the entire tract) must have a smooth interior wall - the flexible, conformable flex tubes are completely worth - the spiral or corrugated inner wall drastically reduces air-flow
3. new filter area is larger than the OEM - but not always an accurate comparo since not all filters flow the same per square inch of area.
4. a filter re-located to anywhere inside the engine compartment gets only pre-heated air from the engine. Under WOT the heat throw-off from the exhaust and hot air pulled through the radiator by the fan is huge.
5. pointing an external intake scoop forward does not produce enough "free supercharging" to make much difference, the wind pressure is only about 1.2% at 100 mph
6. even a K&N has to be big enough to work; example: a 3.3 peaking at 6,000 RPM needs about 47 square inches of filter to work (6" × 8" panel, etc.).
Formula: engine size in liters * RPM ÷ 418
3.3 × 6,000 = 19,800, ÷ 418 = 47.4 square inches
7. when you remove the original stuff, you get a bit more intake roar (sounds nice, though!), but I'm not sure if it cancels any Helmholtz benefits? Is the stock air box a resonator?
8. the biggest power boost you can get from changing the intake duct is cold air - the difference between 70° ambient from the exterior vs. 150° or more inside the bay is large. The duct from the entry need not be continuous diameter - it can end in a big box containing the filter, then another tube back to the TB.

What I'm looking for is an intake that has a remote tube ending outside the engine bay in front of the bodywork (grill, under bumper, etc.). The better ones will have a water trap to prevent rain and road dirt from reaching the filter.

Thanks for any leads or links.

[Sebas007]

Continued from "Parts listing" as a new thread:
I'm looking for a cold air kit for my G2 3.3, but all the leads I track down described as "cold air" are simply aftermarket open sided filters at the end of a curved extension.

Is there a product out there?

Some of what is claimed and posted about intakes is complete rubbish. In general, there are a few things that may help:
1. new tube has larger radii and/or diameter than original plumbing - improves air volume
2. the tube (and the entire tract) must have a smooth interior wall - the flexible, conformable flex tubes are completely worth - the spiral or corrugated inner wall drastically reduces air-flow
3. new filter area is larger than the OEM - but not always an accurate comparo since not all filters flow the same per square inch of area.
4. a filter re-located to anywhere inside the engine compartment gets only pre-heated air from the engine. Under WOT the heat throw-off from the exhaust and hot air pulled through the radiator by the fan is huge.
5. pointing an external intake scoop forward does not produce enough "free supercharging" to make much difference, the wind pressure is only about 1.2% at 100 mph
6. even a K&N has to be big enough to work; example: a 3.3 peaking at 6,000 RPM needs about 47 square inches of filter to work (6" × 8" panel, etc.).
Formula: engine size in liters * RPM ÷ 418
3.3 × 6,000 = 19,800, ÷ 418 = 47.4 square inches
7. when you remove the original stuff, you get a bit more intake roar (sounds nice, though!), but I'm not sure if it cancels any Helmholtz benefits? Is the stock air box a resonator?
8. the biggest power boost you can get from changing the intake duct is cold air - the difference between 70° ambient from the exterior vs. 150° or more inside the bay is large. The duct from the entry need not be continuous diameter - it can end in a big box containing the filter, then another tube back to the TB.

What I'm looking for is an intake that has a remote tube ending outside the engine bay in front of the bodywork (grill, under bumper, etc.). The better ones will have a water trap to prevent rain and road dirt from reaching the filter.

Thanks for any leads or links.

1. By increasing intake diameter, you'll have to cheat the MAF signal so the ECU don't see nothing wrong or just get worst performance or MPG. The thing is air speed is less with an bigger pipe...the ECU calculate an amount of fuel to be injected in the mix with the speed of the air in the intake. Example : 3.5" diameter compare to 2.75" diameter for a same air speed the 3.5" get more air but the fuel delivered will be the same total amount as the 2.75" because of the air speed, bottom line you will run lean. That's why CP-e owners cannot run the pipe without the black box module.


8. There is the link to my own exprience and work.
http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?t=34577&start=54

If you want to make it 100% cold air intake you will have to go with Injen + 3" extension behind the fog light. Some just relocated the fuse box to make them space to pass with their 3" pipe.

[PXLpainter]

Basically - as already stated in the other thread on this topic, there is NO CAI available for the Gen 2 off the shelf. $, hard work and trial & error are going to be your only options. No way around it.

You can start with an SRI and put an extension on it, but if you go any larger dia than 2.75 as Sebas stated, then you will need a Maf tune box. Just by adding the headers to my system increase airflow to ta point that the CP-e box wasn't enough and I had to have a custom box made by Split Second.

When I have the $ & time, I will probably venture into a custom CAI setup as well - but not in any hurry at the moment.

Good luck with your own custom project!