Gauging Intrest: Hard Radiator Pipe Kit***V6 Solara***UPFD

[Astro]

whats wrong w\ astro's car?

I sprung a crank shaft leak after the install of the lightweight crank pulley. UPFD thinks it was the pulley and Gadget thinks it was from the install (which was installed at Impex Motorsports). Now the problem is removing the idle plate, because stupid Keyes Toyota put loctite on the alternator pivot bolt (which was suppose to be hand tight ), so their having trouble removing the bolt. They haven't tried heating it yet, they're mainly concerned about damaging the bolt and I highly doubt I can replace it. Damn Keyes did the install over 3 years ago, so they won't do anything about it...

UPFD already got my ACT clutch and Assco flywheel installed. After they fix the leak, I can get it tuned and dynoed. What sucks is that they've had my car for almost a month now, man do I miss it.

[Too Bzy]

I'd like to see finished product but I would be interested.

[SleeperSolara]

I'd like to see finished product but I would be interested.

Yeap.

[SC V6]

whats wrong w\ astro's car?

I sprung a crank shaft leak after the install of the lightweight crank pulley. UPFD thinks it was the pulley and Gadget thinks it was from the install (which was installed at Impex Motorsports). Now the problem is removing the idle plate, because stupid Keyes Toyota put loctite on the alternator pivot bolt (which was suppose to be hand tight ), so their having trouble removing the bolt. They haven't tried heating it yet, they're mainly concerned about damaging the bolt and I highly doubt I can replace it. Damn Keyes did the install over 3 years ago, so they won't do anything about it...

UPFD already got my ACT clutch and Assco flywheel installed. After they fix the leak, I can get it tuned and dynoed. What sucks is that they've had my car for almost a month now, man do I miss it.

I had one that was stripped out and actually had to use a sawza to cut the alternater out.. and had to re-order the bolt and an alternator... the alternator was bad, which is why I replaced it... TRD should have them

[Astro]

TRD should have them

Would you happen to have their number and maybe someone I could ask? Looking at the s/c instruction manual, there's no part # for the bolt, would you happen to know it? This is the number my friend gave me from N. Hollywood Toyota, (800) 688-5912 - is this correct? I called yesterday and nobody answered.

[RJ@UPFD]

Like I said this is just nthe first one...lthe final will be polished and the welds will be cleaned up. It will also come with Red Couplers and 4 Hose Clamps.

Thanks
RJ

[StockSolara]

Could there be a possibility to make a radiator hard pipe for for the bottom side too and put a bung or something to insert a temperature probe for a water temperature gauge?

[JoeB]

I am interested in this. I talked to Danny and Matt at UPFD about this a long time ago. I completely agree with Phreak though and shared those same concerns when we discussed this a long time ago. It's like deja-vous, I got the same replies. You can't compare this to a RWD. I have watched my engine many times on a dyno. The automatic at least with the stock setup has HUGE engine roll. It is much tighter now with the torque rod, urethane motor mounts and urethane dogbone bushings. However, there is still movement. Like Phreak said, twisting side to side can be absorbed by the rubber couplers pretty easy. This will be a pulling effect and will wear on the weakest point in that line. What about couplers with flanges? Is that possible or available? I like the sound of a polished pipe there with red couplers, sounds nice! -JoeB

[Paladin06Greg]

That's it. I just spoke with them on Thursday.

TRD should have them

Would you happen to have their number and maybe someone I could ask? Looking at the s/c instruction manual, there's no part # for the bolt, would you happen to know it? This is the number my friend gave me from N. Hollywood Toyota, (800) 688-5912 - is this correct? I called yesterday and nobody answered.

[dominoSLEV6]

Sounds like it's workable, but difficult. I'd say all in all it's not a bad idea. I'm not so sure of the benifits of it aside from looking pretty. It may have small helping effects on the cooling system. On any note, it'd be better than some worn ass hoses I know a lot of cars have running all over the place inder their hoods.

-chris

[RJ@UPFD]

I don't know.
Maybe we will find out from "Astro" when he gets his car up and runnin' again, to see what it is like.
Yeah UPFD is the best shop i know that has lots of knowledge on this stuff.
"I mean they can fab a turbo on your mower if you wanted to."
The is straight from wither RJ or someone off a move that they inverviewed UPFD.

That was Matt not me...I would not know how to Turbo a Lawn Mower...And I think Matt was all Jammed up because that was GRIP Video Shooting in our shop...Thank god that footage never made it on the final DVD (Grip Video Vol 1) or we would have every "Red Neck" in the country wanting us to put a T04 on thier John Deer or Briggs and Straton...
"Dat der's ah mean o"LL grass cuttin machine!!!" hahahah.

Later
RJ

[i20solara02i]

LOL

[RJ@UPFD]

That's my ride

From what they tell me they've used that setup many times before. I believe quite a few on some Supras that never had any problems. Remember, these guys build race cars, I think they would know if this was bad. If you all have more knowledge than these guys, please let us know from your experience.

The Supra, being rear wheel drive wouldn't have a problem. Engine roll is right / left. (This would be a twisting effect on the rubber portions of the radiator hose. It could withstand it if the engine mounts are not really soft.) The Solara, being FWD has fore/aft engine roll. You can imagine the effect on the rubber sections. (Sheer motion stress) Depending on how tight the rubber sections are, it could fatigue the radiator inlet.

(My guess is that this is where the weakest point would be. Thinner materials at a 90° joint to the radiator body.)

This is all theory, but it really makes sense.

Theory is correct...we make these pipes for SR20's,RB's,2JZ'z and most Honda's and Acuras...Dan "The CAE Designer" had no problems with this pipe. We are using 3" Long Couplers we will determine the gap size on Monday. The first batdh will be ready to ship right after SEMA. Final Price will be posted on Monday. I will also post a pic of the finished product.

There was another question about the advantage of hard pipe over stock or Silicone Hose Kits....Answer is better water flow, and will not crush, will only burst at the coupler( a cheap fix) And it looks pretty.
this is like a Silicone Hose Kit Up-Grade but a little better and it looks more "Race" And if you see the cars we build you know we are more about the "GO"....

Later
RJ

[SleeperSolara]

That was Matt not me...I would not know how to Turbo a Lawn Mower...And I think Matt was all Jammed up because that was GRIP Video Shooting in our shop...Thank god that footage never made it on the final DVD (Grip Video Vol 1) or we would have every "Red Neck" in the country wanting us to put a T04 on thier John Deer or Briggs and Straton...
"Dat der's ah mean o"LL grass cuttin machine!!!" hahahah.
Later
RJ

When i saw the shot of your shop i was like:
Cause your shop looks good, and some many Supras.
Yeah keep us updated.

[StockSolara]

That's my ride

From what they tell me they've used that setup many times before. I believe quite a few on some Supras that never had any problems. Remember, these guys build race cars, I think they would know if this was bad. If you all have more knowledge than these guys, please let us know from your experience.

The Supra, being rear wheel drive wouldn't have a problem. Engine roll is right / left. (This would be a twisting effect on the rubber portions of the radiator hose. It could withstand it if the engine mounts are not really soft.) The Solara, being FWD has fore/aft engine roll. You can imagine the effect on the rubber sections. (Sheer motion stress) Depending on how tight the rubber sections are, it could fatigue the radiator inlet.

(My guess is that this is where the weakest point would be. Thinner materials at a 90° joint to the radiator body.)

This is all theory, but it really makes sense.

Theory is correct...we make these pipes for SR20's,RB's,2JZ'z and most Honda's and Acuras...Dan "The CAE Designer" had no problems with this pipe. We are using 3" Long Couplers we will determine the gap size on Monday. The first batdh will be ready to ship right after SEMA. Final Price will be posted on Monday. I will also post a pic of the finished product.

There was another question about the advantage of hard pipe over stock or Silicone Hose Kits....Answer is better water flow, and will not crush, will only burst at the coupler( a cheap fix) And it looks pretty.
this is like a Silicone Hose Kit Up-Grade but a little better and it looks more "Race" And if you see the cars we build you know we are more about the "GO"....

Later
RJ

Will there be a lower radiator pipe being made?