SolaraGuy.com

any 'aftermarket' electrical wiring may void a lump of your warranty... not all warranties are voided by mods... only related components... ie... you lower your car but your engine has a problem. it SHOULD still be covered because you didn't mod the engine... you're ass'ed out for alignments/tire problems/other suspension

subs may creep into voiding your whole drivetrain warranty (electricity makes the car go, indirectly, that is). Overdrain of the battery results in overworking the alternator... and, as we all know, no one likes to be overworked... so your alternator will quit.

lazy dealers will void your warranty... more skillfull ones (like ours) will only void chunks of your warranty as seen appropriate.

Hi. I'm planning on changing my speakers with no amp for now.
I was looking at JL audio's VR690.
I don't have the JBL system on my Gen2, and was wondering if the stock unit can handle it.

80W Continuous Power Handling
Rec. Amp Power: 25 - 150 Watts
89.0 dB Efficiency @ 1W/1m
FR: 53 Hz - 22 KHz ± 3 dB

that's what the speaker says.
Where can I find out about Solara stock unit information?
thanks.

Hi. I'm planning on changing my speakers with no amp for now.
I was looking at JL audio's VR690.
I don't have the JBL system on my Gen2, and was wondering if the stock unit can handle it.

80W Continuous Power Handling
Rec. Amp Power: 25 - 150 Watts
89.0 dB Efficiency @ 1W/1m
FR: 53 Hz - 22 KHz ± 3 dB

that's what the speaker says.
Where can I find out about Solara stock unit information?
thanks.

Trying PMing "michaels artic frost" or "DocJohn". These guys know the Gen 2s inside and out

I'll take a shot at this -

The stock headunit is likely 3 to 5 watts per channel RMS - Even the JBL unit that is rated at 270 watts (315 watts for the raggtop) is grossly overstated . The speakers you reference need decent power to sound good. Even an aftermarket receiver with 15 to 20 watts per channel RMS would likely sound a bit thin with these speakers. I noticed that JL audio makes a somewhat cheaper 6x9 speaker that requires only a minimum of 10 watts to drive it. That would come closer, but would still not be a great idea. Speakers are more likley to be damaged by underpowering that overpowering - It's a common misconception that speakers are "blown" by pumping too much power to them. It's a lot easier to blow a speaker by sending a clipped and distorted signal to it - and that's what you will end up doing trying to drive a high end speaker with the stock headunit. It would be a race to see which went first - the speakers or the headunit overheating trying to drive these speakers.

Hope this helps.

Thank you very much for the help.
Since I want to stick with the stock head unit, I think I will end up getting 4ch amps for the rear's and the fronts.
The rear I'll go with the Kappa's or the JL Audio's VR's.
The front, I still gotta figure what will fit.
I wonder if the Infinity's 6002Shallow(1-7/8") will fit on the doors......

damn, it'll be a hassle trying to move the front speaker wires to the amp in the trunk...oh well