Adding a subwoofer/amp...... Crossover?

[Jack Soulfire]

I'm considering installing a 12" subwoofer/amplifier in my 2006 Solara. I have the premium 6 disc changer unit with the amplifier behind the glove box. Is there any way to crossover all of the factory speakers cutting out the low-end so they aren't trying to reproduce low frequencies and let my sub do that work to avoid muddiness?

A high-school friend/circuit city roadshop employee suggested turning down the bass on my head unit and compensating by turning up the gain on the sub, but I can't help but think that would compromise the sound quality than if I could somehow use a crossover. I don't mind spending a little extra in the process to make the sound as good as possible. I also want to avoid replacing the head unit... I like the way it looks.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[theprodigy79]

Unfortunately, without having a separate subwoofer output, the bass from the headunit will directly effect the bass output of the subwoofer (thus, turning down the bass on the unit will lower the subwoofer output as well)... Using the factory headunit, however, you are pretty much stuck using a line level converter through your rear speakers (which allows for very little flexibility in your setup)...

[Jack Soulfire]

Prodigy,

Excuse my lack of knowledge...

Does a line level converter allow me to adjust the eq from the head deck for my components/6x9's without affecting the sound to a subwoofer and amplifier in the trunk?

I know replacing the head unit would probably make this much easier but I really don't want to have to do that. I'm also trying to keep this a simple install... I'm really not wanting a high-end system, I just really want to add a subwoofer to my factory setup but don't want to blare the bass through my 6x9's.


I know this is kinda your thing... I appreciate the help/advice very much.

[Smoothro]

A line level converter allows you to hook up the sub through your existing system, because the factory deck does not have a line out. It basically splices into the signal that the 6x9's on your rear deck are receiving. Therefore when you dajust the bass for your system, you will also be adjusting the bass on the sub. I have this type of connection with the factory deck, and am fairly happy with it. Buying an amplifier with a remote is an option for you, as this would allow you to control the output of the sub seperately and directly.

[joebxr]

You can also add a choke or bass blocker to the front speakers to prevent lower freqs from being sent through the speakers....that will help with maintaining clean sound. I would also suggest that you use a crossover in-front of the rear speaker inputs to split the freqs going to the 6x9's and the sub (which I assume is going to be a powered sub).

Good luck and let us know how it all turns out. PICTURES ALWAYS WORK GOOD !

[theprodigy79]

Joebxr actually has a reasonable solution there with the crossover in-line before your rear speakers... there are small, simple crossovers available that would enable you to separate the frequencies which would be fairly effective. You can find them at places such as Radio Shack.

I would definitely not recommend bass blockers in your application... They are better for smaller speakers that aren't really intended to handle bass (they make larger speakers sound a bit washy)... Bass blockers basically work as a resister that knocks around 6db off the frequency range below a designated point (around 150Hz, which is way too high to cut off anything larger than a 4" speaker).

[joebxr]

I would definitely not recommend bass blockers in your application... They are better for smaller speakers that aren't really intended to handle bass (they make larger speakers sound a bit washy)... Bass blockers basically work as a resister that knocks around 6db off the frequency range below a designated point (around 150Hz, which is way too high to cut off anything larger than a 4" speaker).

I would agree in principle, but you can buy chokes of different ratings. 150Hz is definately not a good point for 6x9's. I would look fo rone that cuts off freqs below 50-60Hz. And again, just to clarify, I am suggesting them for the front speakers only, not as a solution for the rear/sub setup.

Look for a crossover for the rear that has line level inputs/outputs

[cam2Xrunner]

First thing I would do is get this

http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-85V

The N-85V from www.davidnavone.com

Connect that to the rear speaker outputs, then wire up the sub amp. Set the gain so there is no clipping(distortion) to the sub.

The Best Buy guy probably has no clue about gain setting and thinks that it is a volume knob. There should only be one setting for the gain and that's it, you can't overcompensate with gain to fix any problem.

Depending on your amp you will set the gain that the LOC has to the max that the amp you are using can accept. The LOC is adjustable to 0-9.5 Volts. if your amp accepts up to 8 Volts, then you can bring the gain on the LOC to almost max, (around where 8Volts would be) then keep the gains on the amp near minimum.

Which amp and sub are you using? If you haven't picked out anything yet, I can guarentee you that you can do better for them oney than anything offered at best buy.

If after you install the amp/sub/loc, you notice that you are running into a problem where the front speakers are getting distorted due too them playing freqeuencies the sub is playing, then you can look into simple bass blockers filtered around 80hz. If you are also going to be using these on the rear speakers, you will want to add the bass blockers, AFTER the part of the speaker wire that you tapped into for the LOC.