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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - CRISPICS of musical aspiration... (Vol. I~?)
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CRISPICS of musical aspiration... (Vol. I~?)

Postby BadAngel » Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:40 am

Yeah same here... im in the middle of class soo i don't have too much time to post, but yeah ill take some pics and post them up when i get home. Also, i found the "manual" on the A/D/S/ PQ10 online, so ill post the specs on that too.... Yeah i don't mind conitnuing in your thread, but i think it would be more benificial to start my own thread, where we could just openly discuss our ideas there. Eather way its cool i don't mind

Found this real quick on google... i have more info on it at home:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/cla ... -pq10.html
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Postby crispone » Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:19 am

BadAngel wrote:Yeah same here... im in the middle of class soo i don't have too much time to post, but yeah ill take some pics and post them up when i get home. Also, i found the "manual" on the A/D/S/ PQ10 online, so ill post the specs on that too.... Yeah i don't mind conitnuing in your thread, but i think it would be more benificial to start my own thread, where we could just openly discuss our ideas there. Eather way its cool i don't mind

Found this real quick on google... i have more info on it at home:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/cla ... -pq10.html


Good idea! (Starting your own project thread...)

Post pics. as you go along, if you can. I think the pics really help stimulate ideas and contribute to the project. It is also really nice to have the "running record" of your activity, and even serves as documentation for insurance! (My Allstate agency was really impressed that I could pull up the thread and pics RIGHT in their office on my Blackberry!)


PS: That little amp is a great addition to most systems! I'd be right at my "limit" wherein I try to keep at least 100W clean RMS power per channel as a rule of thumb. (I'd be running it 90x2, but 35w clean power will drive most speakers pretty well if you aren't a power junkie!)

You know, if you wanted to run that one for JUST the front staging, it would REALLY light up your door speakers (assuming decent speakers with x-over net or capped active choke...) and then find another "reasonable" cost amp for the rear deck fill. You'd have MUCH better control of your front/rear fade that way...

I've got a few amps laying around... including a PPI/Precision Power 50x2 (MODEST rating... it's a "cheater" amp, really) that is also WHITE with a splash of graphics... I don't think I need it anymore, as it's under powered for what I usually use. Also have an old GM2000 Pioneer that is 50 or 75x2 and bridgeable... don't need that one either.... if you need something else that was "modest" but economical...

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Postby crispone » Tue Jan 06, 2009 12:25 pm

Image


^^^ Dug up a photo of the Precision Power "Designer Series" or whatever amp from an earlier post in this thread. I THINK it's just sitting around in my basement, P/U truck storage compartment, or garage somewhere...


Nothing fancy, but pretty clean little amp that likes to be "loaded up" a little bit. I'd recommend either a pair of staging speakers off it, or better yet, doubling up parallel in the 2-channel mode for nearly 100W per side!


...just a thought...


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Postby BadAngel » Tue Jan 06, 2009 2:21 pm

well i have two A/D/S/ PQ10's
along with some other random crap i have from when i redid the stereo in my Porsche... ANYWAY ill make my own thread with my current setup and ideas and parts that i have and stuff, better hat i don't crowd yours up too much
Last edited by BadAngel on Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby crispone » Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:46 pm

BadAngel wrote:well i have two A/D/S/ PQ10's


Hey, you're all SET! Use one for front, one for rear... and a MONGO amp for your sub!


...btw, I have a MEMPHIS Monoblock that put's out several hundred watts into 2 ohms just laying around as well... 8)



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Postby BadAngel » Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:52 pm

yeahh i have an ALPINE MRD-M605 powering my sub
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Postby crispone » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:55 pm

BadAngel wrote:yeahh i have an ALPINE MRD-M605 powering my sub


Rockin'! You're SET!


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Postby crispone » Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:32 am

Well, I had to pull some equipment out of the 'lara when my wife backed into it over Christmas break... and I JUST got around to putting it all back in! I am still working with the Boston Acoustic components in the front... (that MIGHT change soon... stay tuned!) and while everything was out, I REARRANGED the entire AMP BOARD and added the dry cell battery to the setup!

Here are some mediocre shots of the latest...

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INSTALL IN THE COLD, DARK, NIGHT... AGAIN! DOH! :-?


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^^^ I HIGHLY encourage that you LOWER THE WINDOW GLASS up and down a few times, and MAKE SURE you have clearance for any x-over nets, speaker basket, and foam baffles that you use!


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^^^ There's the FRONT of the AMP board... as seen with SEATS DOWN.

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^^^ There is the view from IN THE TRUNK with the COVER BOARD REMOVED.


Well, WITH the new DRY CELL, there is NO DIMMING during operation at the levels I listen to my system. I DO crank it, but I have things equalized for BALANCE over PURE BASS POUND... so others may find (as noted in other threads...) that a large cap and/or extra battery don't necessarily prevent power "drain" under heavy levels. As for ME? I'm pretty happy with this setup... with the exception of a NAGGING noise from my ANCIENT PIONEER GM-H200 amp! (Seems to be related to the constant FAN in it... which I "noise filtered" the power lead to... with no benefit. :-? )


My next task is BETTER separation of POWER LEAD and RCA leads. (I have ALL running the SAME SIDE of vehicle... even though I TRIED to keep them apart, it's still not enough, perhaps?)

I'm thinking RCA's down MIDDLE or DRIVER side, and leave power on passenger side... we'll see.


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Postby Aotoyota » Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:06 am

to run rca under the driver side is no fun. thats what I did.

1. disconnect battery! ( very important)
2. remove seat and unplug all the airbag plugs etc. and rear seat
3. rip the side kickpanel, door sill and the quarterpanel ( which means take the plastic stuff out from behind the rear seat.
4. pull carpet up.
5. a whole lot of cursing during the process!

that carpet is thick and i was using my head most of the time to prop it up. and im in 70F weather! i couldnt imagine that in 40ish weather. but if you are down there and have some sound deadening, lay some down to reduce more road noise.

my suggestion is to run along the driver side, when you pull the kickpanel, you can pull the carpet from that corner then run it under that to cross to the door sill? ( does that make sense) then along the sides, under the rear seat.

Actually it would be easier/better to run power down the driver side and rcas the passenger since there is less harnesses and stuff under the dash on the passenger size to induce noise.

but good luck with that!
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Postby crispone » Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:09 pm

Aotoyota wrote:to run rca under the driver side is no fun. thats what I did.

1. disconnect battery! ( very important)
2. remove seat and unplug all the airbag plugs etc. and rear seat
3. rip the side kickpanel, door sill and the quarterpanel ( which means take the plastic stuff out from behind the rear seat.
4. pull carpet up.
5. a whole lot of cursing during the process!

that carpet is thick and i was using my head most of the time to prop it up. and im in 70F weather! i couldnt imagine that in 40ish weather. but if you are down there and have some sound deadening, lay some down to reduce more road noise.

my suggestion is to run along the driver side, when you pull the kickpanel, you can pull the carpet from that corner then run it under that to cross to the door sill? ( does that make sense) then along the sides, under the rear seat.

Actually it would be easier/better to run power down the driver side and rcas the passenger since there is less harnesses and stuff under the dash on the passenger size to induce noise.

but good luck with that!



Yup! Still thinking about what "angle" I'll take... I know I spent a GOOD amount of time running everything down the PASSENGER side very nicely... even getting RCA's "into" the loom with the other wiring... but now I'm wondering if that was a "bad" idea! (It could just be the OLD amp has a "noise" issue, because when THAT AMP is disconnected, it ALL goes away! DOH!)

On another note... I've seen some REALLY NICE wiring/braided line (fuel/NOS/etc...) run UNDER/against the frame rail on some cars... that can REALLY create a clean route from front to rear... but it is pretty involved and not always practical without a lift and the right materials... I believe my Supra had one for the NOS and such. I'll have to check again sometime.

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Postby [SMAN] » Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:33 pm

The one thing i would recomend, from a saftey aspect, is adding a fuse between you amps and your cap. There really should be a fuse within 12" of all power sources, and while this might not be a very powerfull cap, it's just a saftey thing. Other than that, it's looking good.
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Postby crispone » Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:03 pm

[SMAN] wrote:The one thing i would recomend, from a saftey aspect, is adding a fuse between you amps and your cap. There really should be a fuse within 12" of all power sources, and while this might not be a very powerfull cap, it's just a saftey thing. Other than that, it's looking good.



WOW! Good point! I realized that I have AMP SPECIFIC fuses between the POWER BLOCK that is in series AFTER the cap, and before the block... but I really should have run the large fuse BETWEEN the cap/battery supply side and the power block!

DAMN! Now I gotta go back and reconsider this thing! DOH!

Glad to have some of you guys really LOOKING at the details, and making these keen observations! :wink:


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Postby [SMAN] » Thu Feb 19, 2009 4:50 pm

crispone wrote:
[SMAN] wrote:The one thing i would recomend, from a saftey aspect, is adding a fuse between you amps and your cap. There really should be a fuse within 12" of all power sources, and while this might not be a very powerfull cap, it's just a saftey thing. Other than that, it's looking good.



WOW! Good point! I realized that I have AMP SPECIFIC fuses between the POWER BLOCK that is in series AFTER the cap, and before the block... but I really should have run the large fuse BETWEEN the cap/battery supply side and the power block!

DAMN! Now I gotta go back and reconsider this thing! DOH!

Glad to have some of you guys really LOOKING at the details, and making these keen observations! :wink:


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Yeah I had a setup like that too a while back, and it was one of the first things the judges commented on at the SQL Competition. Of course i was running an optima in the stock location, had a 150 amp Circuit Breaker there, but the 20 Farad Cap was in the trunk with no fuses comming out of it. So you shouldn't just move it, cause then you'll have your battery unfused. Just put 2 fuses in and you'll have yourself covered no matter what. I think the extra $5 is worth it to protect against a potential trunk fire.
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Postby Aotoyota » Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:18 pm

(It could just be the OLD amp has a "noise" issue, because when THAT AMP is disconnected, it ALL goes away! DOH!)


you might consider to ground that amp alone to the chassis and on a rare occasion the amp is getting noise from the chassis touching metal!

lastly try to see if there is noise when the rca is unplugged? if it goes away maybe a bad rca? to test touch a wire from the rca collar to a ground point, if it goes away then rca shopping!

keep us updated. this reminds me of the huge headaches i had with my system way back when. lol
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Postby crispone » Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:03 pm

Aotoyota wrote:
keep us updated. this reminds me of the huge headaches i had with my system way back when. lol



^^^ Yeah... COME LEARN WITH ME! :wink:


These issues with illustration SHOULD provide SOMEONE with some learning in here, anyway! DOH!


Let me be a lesson for YOU!


...just call me CRISPGUINEAPIG!!!Image






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