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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - CRISPICS of musical aspiration... (Vol. I~?)
Talk about audio, video and navi stuffs.

CRISPICS of musical aspiration... (Vol. I~?)

Postby Aotoyota » Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:52 pm

Crisp.. thanks for the compliment, sure looks like I know what Im talking about!

SMAN... 80-100hz is really going to be tough.
1. Even at 100Hz with a 12db slope you will get low notes coming out
of your sub. with those sounds coming from the trunk the image
will be pulled back.

2. typical 6.5 should get to about 60-71hz region without a problem.

as for the baffle/enclosure, it is my opinion that freeair into the door is the best sounding. my buddy and I disagree about it , but if you consider sealing the door completely; the entire door becomes a giant baffle and not restricted like a baffle.

water damage is not something to consider but unless it floods there, water gets soaked by the felt or slides off the glass without a problem. Plus there are holes along the bottom for drainage ( should you need it)

In relation, the speaker is on the inside of the door and the magnet is floating in the door, water can only get in there if water came in from the inside panel. so there will be condensation but otherwise, there isnt much to worry about other than flooding.

hope this helps.
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Postby crispone » Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:00 pm

Aotoyota wrote:Crisp.. thanks for the compliment, sure looks like I know what Im talking about!

SMAN... 80-100hz is really going to be tough.
1. Even at 100Hz with a 12db slope you will get low notes coming out
of your sub. with those sounds coming from the trunk the image
will be pulled back.

2. typical 6.5 should get to about 60-71hz region without a problem.

as for the baffle/enclosure, it is my opinion that freeair into the door is the best sounding. my buddy and I disagree about it , but if you consider sealing the door completely; the entire door becomes a giant baffle and not restricted like a baffle.

water damage is not something to consider but unless it floods there, water gets soaked by the felt or slides off the glass without a problem. Plus there are holes along the bottom for drainage ( should you need it)

In relation, the speaker is on the inside of the door and the magnet is floating in the door, water can only get in there if water came in from the inside panel. so there will be condensation but otherwise, there isnt much to worry about other than flooding.

hope this helps.


Hey, I appreciate ALL that info! It "walks" on all counts, and I'm inclined to now adopt it! (Everything we know, we heard or read from someone else...) THANKS!


Next time I have a chance, I'll just trim the baffle, then when ready... do the hushmat in doors.


...of course... if paying for a SUPRA part to get it going this SPRING is the issue... I may not be buying hushmat for awhile! 8)



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Postby [SMAN] » Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:57 pm

yeah i dunno how sealed i can get the door. You can see the current state of deadening if you look at my thread in the tutorials section. I haven't added a layer of closed cell foam yet but i do plan on it. I'll probably end up cutting out the back of these and just use it as a splash guard, but thanks for the opinions. Most of the equipment should be here by the end of the week and i'll start part 2 of my fiberglassing thread showing off some of the tricks i've learned to make box building easier.
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Postby Solara08861 » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:12 pm

Hey Crisp,
How is the second battery doing for power?

I need to upgrade my second battery to a bigger battery. The one I have is the same size as yours but is not enough.
I'm around 2500 - 2700 total RMS watts and even with a yellow top, 220 amp alt and the second battery and the big 3 I'm still dimming.
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Postby crispone » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:51 pm

Solara08861 wrote:Hey Crisp,
How is the second battery doing for power?

I need to upgrade my second battery to a bigger battery. The one I have is the same size as yours but is not enough.
I'm around 2500 - 2700 total RMS watts and even with a yellow top, 220 amp alt and the second battery and the big 3 I'm still dimming.



WOW! :o


I can't imagine how you guys DIM from your hits with all that! I guess I don't look for it as hard, or know the difference to push further still! I find my 2 battery 1 farad set on stock alt. is working well, with NO perceptible dimming in dash while jamming at night with lights on. I can hit as hard as it's set up for, and keep a steady current. I guess ONE twelve with a modest 600rms or so to it is not too big a drain.

I'd like to hear how balance you guys can get it with that much HIT! :o


g/l with more batt. power... how about what QUICK did? (TRIPLE yellow-tops!)


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Postby Aotoyota » Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:10 am

Solara08861 wrote:Hey Crisp,
How is the second battery doing for power?

I need to upgrade my second battery to a bigger battery. The one I have is the same size as yours but is not enough.
I'm around 2500 - 2700 total RMS watts and even with a yellow top, 220 amp alt and the second battery and the big 3 I'm still dimming.


you know what that means.. new amps! or more efficient ones.
might try to reground your amps, sometimes that helps.

im rolling with about 2200W rms and no dimming, with just a battery!
stock alternator.
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Postby QuickSEV6 » Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:24 am

crispone wrote:
g/l with more batt. power... how about what QUICK did? (TRIPLE yellow-tops!)

Image
ha ha.

I can't take credit for that. That was the work of my stereo guy. Even I am impressed with it.


By the way Crisp, I just noticed in this pic from page 1:
crispone wrote:Image

In the bottom left corner, I see a professional ping pong raquet.
Are you any good? Back in my Air Force days, many hours wasted on that game. I became pretty good. How about yourself?
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Postby [SMAN] » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:11 am

Solara08861 wrote:Hey Crisp,
How is the second battery doing for power?

I need to upgrade my second battery to a bigger battery. The one I have is the same size as yours but is not enough.
I'm around 2500 - 2700 total RMS watts and even with a yellow top, 220 amp alt and the second battery and the big 3 I'm still dimming.


Yeah that seems a bit odd that you'd be dimming that much with 2 yellow tops. In my old car, I was pulling ~1900 RMS with a 2600 max and All I had was a single yellow top and one of those 20 farad caps and I didn't have any dimming. Then again i was rocking HIDs and LEDs for most of my lighting sources.
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Postby crispone » Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:10 pm

QuickSEV6 wrote:
crispone wrote:
g/l with more batt. power... how about what QUICK did? (TRIPLE yellow-tops!)

Image
ha ha.

I can't take credit for that. That was the work of my stereo guy. Even I am impressed with it.


By the way Crisp, I just noticed in this pic from page 1:
crispone wrote:Image

In the bottom left corner, I see a professional ping pong raquet.
Are you any good? Back in my Air Force days, many hours wasted on that game. I became pretty good. How about yourself?



HA! Love it when the details begin to talk...

That's a Stiga case with two rackets... one a really soft and grippy Stiga, and the other a denser foam-backed "Kamikaze" brand that was oversized and a little on the THICK side. GREAT, ripping spin in any direction. Heck, with EITHER racket used right, I can "blip" a higher-bounced volley over in a "knuckle-ball" wobble several feet high, then bounce just over the net and COME BACK... or usually at least "bounce dead" or zig left or right off-side. EXTREMELY difficult to return... if not IMPOSSIBLE when done right!


I play pretty ham-fisted ping-pong... but I love the game, and would take a match anytime for fun!

(Heck, I grew up in Japan, lived with an uncle who taught me all his tricks on their basement table one semester Freshmen high-school year... then won the school championship that fall. Not to mention several summers working voluntary service at a summer camp... where staff and campers always played like their next MEAL depended on the outcome!)


Ready to "PING"?


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Postby crispone » Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:04 am

Image


...so when I last left off, THIS ^^^ Boston Acoustics tuned box was sporting the 8500 Thunder series driver loading the BIG Memphis monoblock. I had robbed BOTH and placed them in the Avalanche during the winter, but now with the 'lara up and being driven again, I was missing the tunes.

Decided to leave the stuff in the 'lanche alone, and see what I could cobble together.


Image
Image

That's the BIG monoblock in the upper shot mounted in the 'lanche, and the SMALL monoblock I had out of the Toyota P/U... so I figured I'd just drop the sub from the 4x4 in there as well!


Here it is in it's CAMO-COVER made out of a "Whirlpool" mini-refrigerator box... as seen through the window in the xtra-cab. (Never had anyone take a second look in the truck, I'm sure! I never worried to park this ANYWHERE with the face plate removed.)




Image
Image


VIOLA! It was actually a pretty well crafter disguise!



Image
Image
Image
Image



^^^ 12" Square Ported Memphis in tuned box (so so) with small Memphis Monoblock (pretty impressive for size) as mounted and then power-tied back into front of board, which runs the front and decks...)

I ended up having to really pull back my GAIN on the Orion (fronts) and similarly on the Pioneer (rear) to enable the smaller Monoblock to "balance up" with the signal from the deck. Came together NICELY, and I further noted that the lowered gain on the Orion CLEARLY reduced my alternator noise that was such an annoyance before! WIN!


Final outcome is "acceptable" overall sound, on account of the BA components (I'd forgotten how ACCURATE and CLEAN they are... albeit TOO BRIGHT!!!) which are very nice speakers, but really need a stronger sub and still risk overpowering the higher range in my opinion... especially after having the ZR's well powered in the Avalanche. Very different signature components, I believe.


At the moment, I'm quite pleased with this temporary setup! The Solara is definitely the better acoustic chamber... and now I have two "playgrounds" in the 'lanche and 'lara to compare and experiment with sound and components! :D



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Postby rockguitar86 » Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:31 am

crisp, i've looked at almost all of the different pages, but i can't seem to find what speakers you put up front by the windshield (maybe i missed it... i mean there are only 13 whole pages to look through :P).

i'm definitely impressed by your work, and the fact that you favor musicality over loudness. a rarity these days.
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Postby crispone » Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:40 pm

rockguitar86 wrote:crisp, i've looked at almost all of the different pages, but i can't seem to find what speakers you put up front by the windshield (maybe i missed it... i mean there are only 13 whole pages to look through :P).

i'm definitely impressed by your work, and the fact that you favor musicality over loudness. a rarity these days.


Thank you for the kind words! No need to apologize... I've kept it all in a single thread for "ease of reference"... but with the length, it IS difficult to narrow down specific info!

In my setup, there is NO speaker applied in the front dash/windshield location. The component set in the front doors retain the tweeter VERY CLOSE to the woofer, as this is RECOMMENDED by audiophiles and stereo installers for such installs. Your imaging can be damaged, rather than helped by separating the two, as they are designed for this close proximity and I retain it in all my installs.

My setup is plenty bright to stage well (high) up front, even with the speakers down in the doors.



Questions always welcome! Hope that answers yours. :wink:



EDIT: A few pages back, I found the following pics of my Boston Acoustics in the door...


Image
Image
Image
Image


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Postby rockguitar86 » Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:35 pm

well, i guess that would explain why i coudln't find what speakers you were using up there :D i don't think i would mind having a full-range setup in the doors, but i do like having the mid-highs by the windshield, just because it reflects offo f the glass and comes right at you. or maybe because every car my family and i have ever owned had speakers of some kind up there :P

also given your experience with trying to use the stock jbl head unit, i was wondering if you could take a look at and maybe offer your 2 cents on my topic (http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?t=48904). i'm not looking to necessarily go as far as you did, but i'm trying to figure out some options and and kind of a n00b when it comes to car audio, but i love it and am trying to learn more about it. (i'm gonna be doing a custom install on my moms 1972 Buick Skylark convertible in a month or so. that will be fun!)

also, do you have to take the entire door panel off to get ot the door speaker compartments?

Thanks for the help!

it's awesome that a board like this exists. i'm even comtemplating some suspension/stability upgrades after reading these forums and reading about other people's experiences/gripes.
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Postby crispone » Thu Apr 08, 2010 4:01 am

rockguitar86 wrote:well, i guess that would explain why i coudln't find what speakers you were using up there :D i don't think i would mind having a full-range setup in the doors, but i do like having the mid-highs by the windshield, just because it reflects offo f the glass and comes right at you. or maybe because every car my family and i have ever owned had speakers of some kind up there :P

also given your experience with trying to use the stock jbl head unit, i was wondering if you could take a look at and maybe offer your 2 cents on my topic (http://www.solaraguy.com/viewtopic.php?t=48904). i'm not looking to necessarily go as far as you did, but i'm trying to figure out some options and and kind of a n00b when it comes to car audio, but i love it and am trying to learn more about it. (i'm gonna be doing a custom install on my moms 1972 Buick Skylark convertible in a month or so. that will be fun!)

also, do you have to take the entire door panel off to get ot the door speaker compartments?

Thanks for the help!

it's awesome that a board like this exists. i'm even comtemplating some suspension/stability upgrades after reading these forums and reading about other people's experiences/gripes.



- Still suggest NOT separating the tweeter from the woofer. I was "schooled" on this principle over learning it on my own... but have come to accept and subscribe to it as "technically sound" in most cases based on multiple inputs from other audiophiles who know more than I do, and my own experience is VERY GOOD stage and presence when set up this way. (Note: I HAVE placed tweets - Emit series Infinity ribbon - in the dash and staged off the glass, but REALLY bright, and causes some undesirable separation from the rest of the frequency range.)

- No sweat! I'll check out your thread...

- 1972 SKYLARK!!!??? We HAD one of those when I was a kid! "Mint green" no less! G/L w/that project, too!


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Postby GzNutz » Thu Apr 08, 2010 4:47 am

Props on the mini fridge camo! Hilarious and yet so effective.
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