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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - RSB Install for noobs.
Non-tutorials will be deleted.

RSB Install for noobs.

RSB Install for noobs.

Postby Down2TheC » Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:08 am

Thinner/younger guys can do this without jacking the car up. I think jackin makes it easy and I wanted to get some decent pics. There is no trouble fitting the new stuff in as long as you have equal load on both sides. The RSB tries to keep the wheels at the same level and twists when one is higher than the other. Jacked up both will be be at max extension.

Here's what you need...

Image
1. Grease - Synthetic is best for cold weather
2. 12 box end wrench
3. 14mm socket wrench
4. 5mm Allen wrench (hex)
5. Torque wrench if you have one (Mine's a classic)
opt - wire brush for cleaning up fittings.
opt - lubricant for cleaning up fittings, penetrating oil if you have bound bolts.

Step 1
Disconnect the ball joint (Image 1) from both ends of the RSB. Use a 5mm Allen (hex) wrench and a 12mm box-end wrench. The hex wrench is to keep the ball joint from rotating. (See Image 2)

Image
Image
Image

Step 2
Using a 14mm socket (extension helps) remove three bolts from each RSB mount. (Image 3)
Image
Image
Image

Joe Ragtop wrote:Convertible only: Remove a rear brace. One bolt in the rear, two on the side. The front brace is fastened on by the same forward bolt on the side. As pictured, I removed the right side brace and ended up having to work around the exhaust pipe. You might want to try the left brace so you have a better angle when you have to get over that. If it works better, please post so I can edit this. {swindler note: three more bolts and you can just take off both braces making it a cake walk to get it out.}
Image
Image


Step 3
Twist the "legs" of the RSB toward the front and you can sneak it through the side. It should be easier to go to the right side, but I was locked in by the Convertible bracing. Either way you have to get one side over the exhaust. Be careful of the brake lines. Don't kink them.
Image
Image
Image

Step 4
Slide the new RSB into place BEFORE bringing out the grease. (Don't ask how I know...) Do the opposite of getting the old one out.

Step 5
Grease up each end of the straight section where the spindles will go on. Lay it on thick and slap the rubber spindles on.

Step 6
Rough in the three bolts on the mounts but don't torque them down until you have them all in place and the RSB is settled in place. (You might want to clean up those nasty threads and lubricate first) Then torque the bolts to 29 ft/lbs. (no torque wrench? that's about as hard as you can get them with a standard 8" socket wrench)

Step 7
Reconnect the ball joints. The hole on the end is closer to stock while the inside hole will give you stiffer/less roll/more performance. Most choose middle.

Image

You're done... here's the old and the new.
Image[/quote]

[edit]pointed to new host for pics... sorry for the x's.[/edit]
[edit2]and again... they got case sensitive all of a sudden.[/edit2]
Last edited by Down2TheC on Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:41 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Postby MikeATL » Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:24 am

Great DIY Guide.

1 question, do you have to take the wheels off?
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Postby RichD978 » Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:28 am

^^ I didn't I drove my car onto ramps since they're easier, more room, and safer than just jack stands. I used jack stands and wheel chocks while it was on the ramps for added security.
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Postby Down2TheC » Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:33 am

^^^ I wanted to get some pics and I like sitting over back crawling when possible.
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Postby swindler » Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:35 am

Convertible only: Remove a rear brace. One bolt in the rear, two on the side. The front brace is fastened on by the same forward bolt on the side. As pictured, I removed the right side brace and ended up having to work around the exhaust pipe. You might want to try the left brace so you have a better angle when you have to get over that. If it works better, please post so I can edit this.


...or give yourself some extra work and just remove both the left and right brace - which is what I did. I can't say how hard it would have been to remove just one, but I do know this. With both braces on, it was impossible. With both braces off, it was easy.

Great tutorial!
Last edited by swindler on Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby RichD978 » Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:37 am

down2thec wrote:^^^ I wanted to get some pics and I like sitting over back crawling when possible.



Good point. I wanted to take pics for a tutorial when I did mines but it was during the winter and I don't have a garage. Thanks for the excellent write up i'm sure future RSB DIYers greatly appreciate this
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Postby Down2TheC » Tue Apr 18, 2006 11:40 am

Thanks... I'm campaigning for "Member of the Month" for May. :P
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Postby Biggi_e » Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:00 pm

nicely put DIY, great job
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Postby Somedude » Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:16 pm

good job on the tutorial. :D

I wish I had this kind of tutorial when I was installing the RSB on my car, the manual that came with the bar wasn't really crystal clear on some things.
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Postby mpvpapabear » Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:50 pm

Great tutorial! Just what I needed. Just a question. Looks like the old bar had teflon tape. Did you put tape on the new bar?

I remember seeing an older tutorial mentioning about it. Or is the grease all that's needed.

Picking up my RSB tonight at UPS if I get there on time or tomorrow.

Now I can save $50 on the install!
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Postby swindler » Tue Apr 18, 2006 3:18 pm

mpvpapabear wrote:Looks like the old bar had teflon tape. Did you put tape on the new bar?


What you're seeing on the old bar is a collar that keeps the bushing in the correct position. The TRD bar does not have this collar.

Teflon tape may be overkill, but most would recommend using it as extra insurance. I used it, and the Mobil One synthetic grease both around the tape, and in and around the bushing. I gooped it on pretty thick, too. So much that I was worried about little puddles of grease dripping down onto the driveway.

If you're paying ~$150 for the bar, spend a few more dollars and put it on right.
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Postby Down2TheC » Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:16 pm

Somedude wrote:... the manual that came with the bar ...

:o You got a manual? I got nothin'.

Looks like the old bar had teflon tape. Did you put tape on the new bar?


Yeah... optical illusion? There's not t-tape anywhere on either. Under my spindles were grease only, next to the spindles were the collars that swindler mentioned. You're not talking about the photochop line I put on the old one to make it more visible? Are ya?
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Postby SleeperSolara » Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:31 pm

Nice DIY man.
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Postby mpvpapabear » Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:42 pm

down2thec wrote:
Somedude wrote:... the manual that came with the bar ...

:o You got a manual? I got nothin'.

Looks like the old bar had teflon tape. Did you put tape on the new bar?


Yeah... optical illusion? There's not t-tape anywhere on either. Under my spindles were grease only, next to the spindles were the collars that swindler mentioned. You're not talking about the photochop line I put on the old one to make it more visible? Are ya?


It was the collars swindler mentioned. So what's your impression with the new rsb? You chose the middle setting?

Thanks again for the great tutorial!
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Postby Down2TheC » Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:12 pm

There's a major difference in the cornering. Before the install, give your car a little waggle back and forth while doing 50+. You'll notice that theres a tendancy for the roll to get bad enough that she digs in on the outside tires and wants to continue the turn. After the RSB, that's not the case. In the turn, you keep more even pressure on all tires and I've even gotten sqeals and squeaks from the inside wheels while pushing her through an on ramp. You know how if you swerve left, you feel like the back end is rolling out to the right... no more.

If feels more sturdy and confident. I may try the track setting next time I have the wheels off. Middle if nice but I'm curious what the inside hole feels like. (I'm a guy... gotta explore each one, right?)

And it really doesn't effect the straight/level feel. It only comes into play when the wheels try to do diferent things. So really nasty pot holes or train tracks my be a bit more rough, but I haven't experienced that yet.
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