[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSK/3.0/no DST' instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /viewtopic.php on line 988: getdate(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Moscow' for 'MSK/3.0/no DST' instead
SolaraGuy.com • View topic - DIY : Battery relocation + CP-e extension
Non-tutorials will be deleted.

DIY : Battery relocation + CP-e extension

DIY : Battery relocation + CP-e extension

Postby Sebas007 » Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:06 am

First, the main purpose of this mod is to free up the engine bay to let me (later on) put an extension to my CP-e pipe to get colder air.

Ok guys this is the tutorial section...do not post general question or opinion on here...I've already made an thread for it.
http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php?t=34577

Only specific question on the topic.
Also note that to play with electricity ask for a minimum security behavior and that I cannot be named responsible for any damage (car/person) doing this mod. Medium mod difficulty (nothing complicated as turbo setup) but ask for some drilling...


Thanks


===============================================
-------------------------
Purchase part
-------------------------

I bought the kit and the switch from Summitracing.com

The kit ($109.95)
SUM-G1231-K
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1231%2DK&N=700+400304+1005+115&autoview=sku
Image

The switch ($49.95) (just must to have)
SUM-830050
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D830050&N=700+0&autoview=sku
Image

The battery (paid 200$ (CAD) at Wal-Mart)
Optima redtop group 34/78

==============================================
-------------------------
The tools
-------------------------

12mm, 14mm, 17mm socket
9/16" socket (maybe forgot some...but most common thru the process)
Drill with
1/4" wood drill bit (for the swith on the box)
3/4" wood drill bit (for the box)
3/4" metal drill bit (for the firewall)
Tie-wrap
Saw for the board
Wire size vs length (http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm )

==============================================
Steps

1. Locating the spot under the car where you could have access to bolt the rods passing thru the box. I choose left side because right side was block by the exhaust line. Took off the plastic rack. Place the box then place the battery where you want it to sit. I choose the middle of the isolating paste on the driver/passenger side axis and choose to put the left read corner of the lid in the curve of the tailights shaped carpet wall.

Under view (don't forget to put a lot of grease on those bolts and rods)
Image

Don't use the down bracket as template for the 2 holes as the instruction says. The reason is because the box is trapezoid (top larger than bottom). You can see it on last pic (3rd hole...) I suggest you to use the down bracket as template for just one hole then place the box over it. The hole has to be at 1/4"-3/8" inner the box to let the usage of a washer (important to not tear the thick plastic during usage of the car). Put something heavy or better ask someone to keep the box in place. Go under the car and drill at least a spot in the box using the hole that you already made in the car with the down bracket as a template. For the second hole be sure to align your box correctly and from 1/4" to 3/8" drill and hole thru the box and the car. Again take your time on this part...I'm trying to explain it the best I can...but there is part you have to figure it out yourself.


Hint : since the battery weight 40 pounds, it is a good idea to balance the weight on solid base. To do so, push the box further possible toward outside of the car (with carpet wall ON). Then you'll be able to place the battery. The key is the down backet location.

DON'T FORGET to put back board floor (need a little cut) and floor carpet just 2 holes for the rod to pass thru...I forget this step and it look less professional !


2. Put the battery in the box and (take it off) align yourself to drill the wire holes as instructions says

3. Use a board and put the kill switch back down in order to create a template. Color the 3 holes with black marker on the board. Use this homemade template and drill in those spots without moving the board to get a perfect job. Then you'll be able to screw the siwtch on the box. Use big washer with small one to help the box stand the weight of the switch. Put the screw facing the outside of the box...it will not create any interference.

4. Now that your hole or done in the trunk/box section, you may want to pass the positive wire toward the engine bay. Here are so shot from the trunk.

Image
Image
Image

5. Continue inside the car on driver rear seat. Pull gently on the wall toward inside. I start with the part nearest to the door.

Image
Image
Image


6. Make pass the wire thru the bottom as well...becareful to not move too mush isolating material. I pass down the seat belt "charger" to land at this point after taking off the door floor trim.

Image
Image

7. Now is time to drill an 3/4" hole thru the firewall. Look closely to the pic inside/outside to locate the same place on your car. If you think to have a better location to pass the wire good for you...

Image
Image
Image

8. Then put the grommet. Pain in the ass...better to trim the excess of metal in the engine bay around the hole you just made.
Image


9. Once its done...it's a no contest. Just finish to route the wire.

Image
Image
Image
Image


10. File down the paint around the hole for the negative. I use the hole from the plastic rack.

Image

11. Do the connections.
I use this to complete my connection. I try also the heat gun...I think heat gun is better !!
Image

Image
Image


FORBIDDEN !!!
Do not take off the stock ground...or just replace it like I did.
12. I took off the stock negative wire to make some space.
Image

I replace the ground that way
Image

13. Now it's time to make the final terminal connection. I used the bolt that is already on the terminal.

Image

14. Isolating everything by using a electric red tape.

Image
Image

15. I choose to pass the wire this way but I think you can make it closer to the driver strut tower by cutting the stock dark gray tie-wrap.

Put everything back on
Image
Image


16. Push and lock the switch to ON !!!

Image
Last edited by Sebas007 on Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:40 pm, edited 7 times in total.
Image
Sebas007
SolaraGuy Moderator
SolaraGuy Moderator
 
Posts: 2515
Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 4:03 am
Location: Montreal, QC

Postby ClassySolaraGuy » Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:36 am

Nice write up & pics Sebas! :sweet: This should help many who my attempt to relocate their battery.
Project: Icis (My gurls 05' Sport 3MZ)

"Passion in a project reveals the perfection at work"
User avatar
ClassySolaraGuy
1 Rockin' Solara
1 Rockin' Solara
 
Posts: 762
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 10:22 pm

Postby Sebas007 » Sat Aug 11, 2007 6:25 am

Just comparing before/after under the hood.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Sebas007
SolaraGuy Moderator
SolaraGuy Moderator
 
Posts: 2515
Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 4:03 am
Location: Montreal, QC

Postby Yanks0114 » Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:54 am

Wow unreal job.

For the on / off switch, do you think I could use a 150amp one?
Yanks0114
SolaraGuy Moderator
SolaraGuy Moderator
 
Posts: 4787
Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 12:01 am

Postby Sebas007 » Sat Aug 11, 2007 9:28 am

Yanks0114 wrote:Wow unreal job.

For the on / off switch, do you think I could use a 150amp one?


I just find 250 amp one...do you think it would be very important to get one at 150 amp ??
Image
Sebas007
SolaraGuy Moderator
SolaraGuy Moderator
 
Posts: 2515
Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 4:03 am
Location: Montreal, QC

Postby Americanctm10 » Sat Aug 11, 2007 9:38 am

Sebas you feel a difference?
99' SLE V6: 17' Enkei J10's, TRD RSB, Renova grill, Debadged, 35/20%Tint, CP-E Intake w Crispmongo Filter, NEW PAINT!
Image
User avatar
Americanctm10
SolaraGuy Driver
SolaraGuy Driver
 
Posts: 422
Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2007 2:42 pm
Location: ATL, Georgia

Postby Sebas007 » Sat Aug 11, 2007 10:04 am

Americanctm10 wrote:Sebas you feel a difference?


Yeah a feel the difference I analyse to have. Also modify a bit the sound...I like it ! I will come with some number coming from my G-Tech unit...it will give a power scale idea.
Let discuss it in my other thread plz...
http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php?t=34577&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Image
Sebas007
SolaraGuy Moderator
SolaraGuy Moderator
 
Posts: 2515
Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 4:03 am
Location: Montreal, QC

Postby michaels artic frost » Sat Aug 11, 2007 10:34 pm

Great job Sebas, I'm sure those that plan on doing this will be grateful for the detailed pics and tutorial.

Thanks for sharing.
-Michael
Updated 06/01/12: Michael T's
Updated 06/01/12: JUICED! 232whp 294ft/lbs of torque
"Every passing minute is another chance to turn it all around."
User avatar
michaels artic frost
SolaraGuy Moderator
SolaraGuy Moderator
 
Posts: 3964
Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 11:17 pm
Location: Kentucky

Return to Tutorials Gen 2 and 2.5

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest