<05-29-08> result is in Sand Mica Limited TURBO!

[tacti]

well, the bov is recirculate into the intake (after the MAF), and still does stall...
I will try the idle valve cleaned and see how it goes.

the problem is kinda odd, it drives fine in first and second, (remember i drive automatic), but when it goes into third and when i let the gas off, there's some hesitation going back into second. The rpm keep going down to 200 or so, and dies.

for now, i'm driving around with shifting down when i let the gas off, and so far it's working.

I'm waiting for my new spark plugs, and once i put them in, i'll take it back to the shop and ask them to take a look.

for now, the bigger problem is my tail light fuse...
well, it's nothing to do with turbo, but somewhere in the thousands of cables, tail light wire is short circuited.
in stead of trouble shoot where it is, i'm thinking of running totally new wire for the tail light....

one headache after another.... that's all about modding a car, i guess....

Tact

[i20solara02i]

o ya i forgot you have a turbonetic turbo kit. their turbo setup does already recirculate back to the intake. hm... just let the ecu try to relearn because probably there isn't enough air passing through.

[PhreakdOut]

Congrats Tact! You pushed SolaraGuy to have a Gen2 Forced Induction Forum.

[Guest]

DAMN!!!!!!!!! Your car just slapped my 'lara square in the face with that one bro lol looks nice can't wait to boost mine

[gnegroni]

Congrats Tact! You pushed SolaraGuy to have a Gen2 Forced Induction Forum.

WOOT!

[tacti]

Congrats Tact! You pushed SolaraGuy to have a Gen2 Forced Induction Forum.

WOW. that is such an honor.

Thank you all for props.
so far, i do not have any huge trouble other than engine stalling (well.. it's a big problem, but i'm working on fixing it...)

the acceleration is great.
hope to have my exhaust work done, which i'm hoping to give me some more HP.

again, thanks.

Tact

[michaels artic frost]

My friend and I visited Tact this weekend in Ohio to work on some projects for our cars. We were fortunate to have the opportunity to ride in Tact's Gen 2 Turbo charged Solara and it was AWESOME!!! Great acceleration and force coming from the I4 engine, I was very suprise at the power. Tact will continue to push envelopes and can't wait to see what he has up his sleeves.

CONGRATS again Tact, you're a tru pioneer for all of us.

Thank you and your family's hospitality for letting us stay at your house and working on both our cars. I'm very happy that we got so much accomplished.

We also had time to play about 3 hours worth of Monopoly, we'll definitely have to do this again.

-Michael T.

[Sebas007]

the acceleration is great.
hope to have my exhaust work done, which i'm hoping to give me some more HP.

It is 100% sure that if you improve your exhaust system with less air restriction...the performance with the turbo will increase too !!

[tacti]

I got the spark plug i ordered on ebay, and just installed this afternoon.

One I got is Denso IK22.
it is iridium plug that is one step colder than IK20, factory direct replacement.

it took me about 30 min or so, and no hassle, easier than the oil change.

I have used 5/8" socket for spark plug (regular 5/8" with some rubber piece inside to hold the spark plug), with extension.

1. take engine cover off by removing two 10mm nuts on top of the cover.

2. disconnect the harness, and remove 10mm bolts that holds the spark plug coil (?).

3. pull the coil and set it aside.

4. use the 5/8" socket with extension and remove old spark plug.

5. put anti-seise grease around the new spark plug, insert to the socket and then put it back in to the engine.

6. put the spark plug coil back on and bolts back on.

7. repeat steps for all 4 spark plugs.

the only part it was tricky was when i install new plug, I could not insert the new plugs into the socket too tight.
otherwise, socket did not come off when i remove the ratchet.

after installation, i start the engine and idled it for a little while.
the knocking is eliminated, and engine seems to be running smooth.

i could not drive around since my gf called me for dinner.
tomorrow morning, i will see how it runs tomorrow morning when i go to work.

Tact

[Jakecallun20]

^^^ You did replace all 4 with IK22's over the IK20's correct?

[tacti]

yep. now i have ik22 for all 4 plugs.

and... the stalling problem seems to persist even after changing the plugs....

Tact

[gnegroni]

yep. now i have ik22 for all 4 plugs.

and... the stalling problem seems to persist even after changing the plugs....

Tact

No updates on solution or problem still persistent? Found this on the internet... its not from a 2AZ-FE, but might be a good read (cached page - no longer available)

http://209.85.207.104/search?q=cache:14 ... =firefox-a[url][/url]

Main body text:

This information has been quoted by a member of .org PLEASE READ IF YOU WANT YOUR TURBO'D ECLIPSE TO RUN RIGHT!!!

For all of you who are sucking through the MAF you need to be using a re-circulating blow off valve. The MAF sensors job is to tell the computer the temperature and the amount of air ( In grams/sec) coming into the engine. BOTH of these measurements are critical to the way the engine run and performs. When you suck a volume of X air into the engine with a temp. of 100 degrees the computer calculates the fuel needed for X air at 100 degrees. but then you are changing those values when you heat the air up with the turbo and then cool them down with the IC. The computer is getting a miscalculated reading and is trying to run on a set amount of gas but a unknown amount of air.. When you go and add the open air BOV you screw things up even more. You are not venting some of the Unknown amount of air, which is now hotter, and has a lower volume than the computer knows about (X) and trying to run it on WAY WAY too much fuel.. It will run rich, maybe so rich the car sputters and Stalls. You need to put all of the air into the engine that the MAF sees, you do this with the Re-Circulating BOV, putting the air back in AFTER the MAF

Here is the reason why blowing through the MAF is better all around. You will get more power, better readings and should not run into any problems with either style of BOV.

When you blow through the MAF you are getting the most accurate reading of air charge temp, and volume. since you no longer have to worry about the volume changing in the intercooler, or the temperature you will get more power.. you can also use the open air BOV with no problems. This can be done by installing the BOV in the charge pipe BEFORE the MAF. When the BOV opens, the MAF has not yet taken its reading on the air, so you will not get any stalling problems. And yes, it should be safe to blow through the MAF. Rippmods does it*.

That is also how I am 99.99% sure this will work without flaws. I know many of the members know this information already, but I posted this for all of the people who need more information on getting a kit going, and how to design a GOOD turbo setup and still keep their daily driver running .

* look at the picture of the Rippmods setup, they are blowing through the MAF, and look where the BOV is, its before the MAF



I did exactly what is shown above. Put my MAF after my BOV but before the Intake Manifold. Took me about 1 1/2 hours to cut the IC piping out to fit it in there. As soon as I started my car I knew right then, MY PROBLEMS WERE SOLVED!!! I hit the throttle numerous times & the car always came back to a perfect 900-1000 rpm idle with NO SMOKE!!! So I put it up to the real test around the block, up & down the highways & put a beating on it. But everytime I came to a stop, PERFECT IDLE WITH NO SMOKE!!! I can also feel a much better throttle response & incredible amount of extra power. This is a MUST DO for anyone having Idle problems & problems with it being rich. I GAURENTEE IT WILL WORK! I tried it & it idles & drives just like the day I drove it off the lot. (except I have much more power now)

I hope this helps everyone out. & think this thread should also be sticked, so if a MOD can please sticky this GREAT INFORMATION, please do.

[tacti]

it is pretty funny that i actually found this article just this morning, and reading it thru.

my problem is still there, and haven't found any solution.
the shop had cleaned up throttle body last week, and it made it run pretty well for first time driving around the town.
once i went on highway and get off, it start acting slightly odd, and now it start stalling again.

however, before the throttle body cleaning, the problem was mainly when i was on 3rd gear (even though i'm on automatic), and when it suppose to shift down to the second.
now, the car will not stall when i slow down from second, third or fourth gear.
when i start from the dead stop and let the gas go around 3000 rpm, the rpm drop alway down to 400, or so, hesitate a little and then drop to 200, then stall.

i have checked MAF sensor, and vacuum line, and they seems to be okay.
right now, as long as i drive carefully, i do not have big problem so i will wait till my exhaust work.
(I'll take my car back to the shop in a month or so...)

I'm thinking of doing sea form sometime soon as well.

btw, are there anyone who could help me on that?
i looked around and am having trouble finding where is the brake booster....... (sorry if it's a stupid question...)

Thanks a lot for keep looking after me on this issue ^^;

Tact

[gnegroni]

it is pretty funny that i actually found this article just this morning, and reading it thru.

LOL

btw, are there anyone who could help me on that?
i looked around and am having trouble finding where is the brake booster...

Hell, my camera batteries died, so I can't take pics. The booster is the big round black thing in the firewall. The brake fluid reservoir comes out of the middle of it. I saw a line about 1/2" to 3/4" which has a white plastic interconnect right a few inches from the booster and runs along the firewall to the back of the engine. I think that is it, but its too difficult to add the seafoam to the line running to the back of the engine. Let me look into the manuals and I will get back to you; there has to be an easier line to use.

Also, I think if you car behaved perfectly before adding the turbo, its probably turbo related (sparks, throttle body work might not be problem?). Did you mention your kit was for an automatic Scion tC? Maybe there is a difference in the kits other than problems due to bigger transmission or the addition of a transmission fluid cooler?

[gnegroni]

tacti, I forgot to ask you a few things... not sure if it deserves a new topic. How is your fuel economy? Obviously if you gun it, its gonna sap more fuel, but comparing "normal" driving with and without turbo, how is it going?

Also, what considerations should be taken regarding smog check?

PS Dang, why the hell is my sig having so much space after text?