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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Engine Light and EGR Valve
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Engine Light and EGR Valve

Engine Light and EGR Valve

Postby charsolara » Tue Jul 12, 2011 12:49 am

Hello all. I took my 2000 toyota solara v6 to an auto shop today because my engine light has been coming on and off for about the past week. They ran a test to get the code, and the mechanic said there was something wrong with my EGR valve and that it would cost $500-$600 to get it fixed. Does this sound right? Could there be something else causing the problem? I have yet to disconnect the negative charge from the battery, but will try that tomorrow morning to see if the engine light goes off. Also, my car is 89,000 miles, but last year I was having engine trouble and paid $3000 to have a 55,000 mile engine from a totalled solara installed. I don't know if they changed the valve. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you
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Re: Engine Light and EGR Valve

Postby 1gSE » Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:06 am

What code did they get? And egr CEL can be something as simple as disconnecting and reconnecting the plug on it. They valve itself shouldn't cost you more than 200 and just a few minutes to swap. Go somewhere else and get a second opinion. Find another mechanic, this one is gonna bend you over and not use any lube
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Re: Engine Light and EGR Valve

Postby 99SolaraKing » Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:36 am

charsolara,

$500-600 is on the higher side of things when it comes to the pantheon of EGR valve replacement labour charges. The EGR valve itself is a $247 part from the dealership, and about $184 from discounted Toyota OEM parts sites such as http://www.toyotapartseast.com, and the job takes about 2-3 hours to accomplish. Using a flat-rate fee of $60 per hour, the labour charges should come out to about $120-180. In total, I would anticipate paying about $360. This is assuming that the shop you go to charges $60/hr and you acquire your parts from the aforementioned discounted parts site.

Shop around and there are bargains to be had. It never hurts to obtain labour quotes from multiple shops! :D
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Re: Engine Light and EGR Valve

Postby 1gSE » Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:44 pm

247 is still too expensive. Check rockauto.com. Myself and many other members can vouch for them. The egr valve DOES NOT take 2 to 3 hours to replace......
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Re: Engine Light and EGR Valve

Postby charsolara » Sat Jul 30, 2011 6:59 pm

So I took my car to another auto shop. They ran a scan and told me that whatever the problem is is not a big deal. They said the code was p1410 and it was some emissions issue, but for them to make a more accurate diagnosis I would have to pay. I decided to take my car home for now. The engine light still comes on and off. It doesn't blink, but just stays on and off for a while randomly. HOWEVER, driving last night some water leaked out from under the passenger side dashboard. Or, at least I think it was water. Would that leakage be correlated to an engine problem?? And are there any recommendations at this point what I should do with the code they gave me from the scan (p1410)?

Thank you
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Re: Engine Light and EGR Valve

Postby 1gSE » Mon Aug 01, 2011 5:04 am

I'm guessing you mean P0141 which is an o2 sensor code. p1410 isnt listed in my repair manual. I'd stay away from that shop too. There should be no need to pay for an accurate diagnosis when the code tells you whats wrong. And it is big deal. Does you state require an emissions test? Having a CEL on is an automatic fail. Anyways, that code points towards your down stream o2 sensor (after the cat) Replace it, yourself, should cost around 100 bux, and buy or rent an o2 sensor socket
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Re: Engine Light and EGR Valve

Postby SirThomas88 » Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:12 am

P1410 is a common EGR code. I've had that code for quite awhile because I disconnected my EGR system.

P1410 TOYOTA - EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

Here's a link to some info on it: http://engine-codes.com/p1410_toyota.html

This is not a code that will affect how your car runs. Unless your car is due for emissions testing or inspection soon, don't worry about it. If I were you, I'd research some more and try and fix it yourself. It could either be a plug that got disconnected, a vacuum leak, dead VSV (vacuum switch valve) or some part of your EGR rotted out possibly. Whatever it is, it's not something that is hard to fix with some wrenches, pliers, and screwdrivers once you find the problem.
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