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did anyone else ever experience really low idle rpm, about 800-1000, and most of the time bogging out and dying after they installed the ted supercharger???
at first i was getting misfires but i replaced the spark plugs and the code has gone away so far. but its still idle really low and sometimes dyes. could an exhaust leak have any effect on this?

800 rpm sounds about right. Sounds lke you might have a vacuum leak. Carb cleaner will help you find it

wow that low huh? hmm well i did have an egr leak at first, but i had fixed it. ill try the carb cleaner. thanks

I idle at around 650rpm. Been like that for 1 year since I got the car, never had a prob.

well the check engine light came back on this morning so i gotta go get it read and see if its still the misfiring code. but when it just doesn't wanna idle that low without dying and i really don't wanna have to take her in and pay..

what were you idling at before? I'm with mig0s on this one. My scanner shows me idling at 650ish also

hmm i don't really remember, but it wasn't that low i think..but but thanks cuz i did find the vacuum leak.. one problem down, now for the other.

Awesome, glad I could help. Whats wrong now? misfire?

yea, I'm picking up the coils tomorrow morning and hoping that thats all it takes.. really don't wanna have to take it in.

oh ok, hopefully that takes care of it. One of mine went bad and I was getting a high rpm sputter, replaced all 3 and it went away. But since I was trying to rule out everything, I bought new plugs, wires, knocker sensors (getting a code for both of them), ignitor and injectors. Once the injectors come back from Witch Hunter, I'm replacing everything just for piece of mind

An idle around 800 is fine. However, since you just performed a major induction modification, all signs point to an intake/vacuum leak if something doesn't feel right to you. I'm not completely familiar with the blower setup you're using, but on many turbo/super systems the wastegate/popoff valve/boost controller can mismanage either ported or manifold vacuum. Check all vacuum lines and hoses as well as the manifold gaskets and joints.

In the olden days of the first street turbos (1980s). a malfunctioning boost controller could also loosen or even blow off the induction hoses and clamps. If one blows off, the engine stops. If it just loosens, the engine won't idle properly or develop full power. Check all hose and tube connections including those at the intercooler if equipped.

After about 30 years fooling with imported vehicles, I find that it is usually something very basic....even with fuel injection and inductive ignition. Think the problem through slowly and something will invariably present itself. Guessing, then throwing parts under the hood attempting to fix a vague problem gets very expensive.

wiggley wrote:yea, I'm picking up the coils tomorrow morning and hoping that thats all it takes.. really don't wanna have to take it in.

you could also swap the coils around to see if the same pistons are misfiring before goin out & buying new ones. If a different piston misfires after swapping them around then you can pin-point the bad coil. could save you a few bucks to buy 1 instead of 3.

SHE LIIIVVVESSS!!! ha, turns out there was open vacuum hole under the throttle body, never saw it so never even knew it was there till i felt around and felt suction.. dont know if it connects to a vacuum line to something else but once its plugged, the engine evens out and stops misfiring. now i can finally enjoy a ride in my car.

lol, I wonder if thats the same one I missed

How much boost are you running?? Fuel mods?? Be sure to get it tuned as well...have fun with the blower