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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - How to sound deaden your car and fiberglass too!
How to, DIY, and Get 'er done.

How to sound deaden your car and fiberglass too!

Postby [SMAN] » Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:31 pm

Mr. Slippery wrote:Nice Job. I've know I've seen your car before. I think it was on 93 a while back.


It's possible, but i doubt it as i usualy take 95 every where i go. You should come out to the show on the 20th, i'm trying to drag sebass down aswell.

On another note, i'm starting to update the pictures with comments so stay tuned. Also this is going to be broken up over the next several weekends. Some unforseen problems have caused me to slow my pace and delay working on it. But hopefuly you'll see regular updates on the 2 cars.
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Postby Sebas007 » Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:52 pm

Great write-up ! Continue the good work !! :D
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Postby [SMAN] » Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:55 pm

Ok these are some of the pics from this weekend. It's all about the subaru as were getting 1 car done at a time, and i still need to source some parts for my car.

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Postby woa_its_j3ff » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:18 pm

^ WOW.. i can only imagine how much a shop would charge for all the labor. major props. i hope to do that to my car some day..
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Postby [SMAN] » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:21 pm

the subaru was wicked easy. Had the whole interior stripped in under 3 hours. next day started deadening roung noon, and by 11 pm, we had the whole thing done, wires run, and part of the interior back in. that car was like half the time of my car, but it's smaller too... This stuff is a lot easier that you think. Just takes a weekend really. Especialy if you have the tools and stuff ahead of time.
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Postby QuickSEV6 » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:51 pm

woa_its_j3ff wrote:^ WOW.. i can only imagine how much a shop would charge for all the labor. major props. i hope to do that to my car some day..
I had it done at a shop here in Texas a couple years back. I think the total (labor and materials) was in the neighborhood of $850.
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Update!

Postby [SMAN] » Sun May 11, 2008 10:02 pm

The Driverside door

So we start here with your standard driver side door (with or without tint) Make sure your window is up as we need to get behind it for deadening
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Start in the back of the control module. Pry it up as the front is hooked under and you will just break it.
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It should come up and disconnect the cable. Also takeout the screw that is there.
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The panel behind the latch pops out and there is another screw that needs to be removed.
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Undo the cap on the right to reveal another screw, and then take the black cover off the mirror holder.
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Last two screws are down here underneith. Then the whole thing just pulls off with snap clips.
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Tada!
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Well, time to get started after we've removed our access holes.
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This is the back of the door. Nothign special there.
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As you can see, i'm deadening the outer shell as well as the inner fraim. I could tell a difference right away.
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And here it is all put back together before i put the skin back on.
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The doors are some of the easiest components to take apart and deaden. Just be sure to clean things so the stuff will stick. You should hear a difference right away.
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Postby ballistik101 » Wed May 14, 2008 5:17 pm

did you cut the strips of deadening and stuck 'em in through the hole of the outer trim of the door to get to the inner door? or did u take something apart to get to the inner trim?
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Postby Solarizona » Wed May 14, 2008 5:40 pm

Amazing write up! I would love to have that done.
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Postby [SMAN] » Wed May 14, 2008 6:39 pm

ballistik101 wrote:did you cut the strips of deadening and stuck 'em in through the hole of the outer trim of the door to get to the inner door? or did u take something apart to get to the inner trim?


I cut them into large strips. The roll itself is only a foot wide, so you are limited somewhat in size. The nice thing about this is that it doesn't matter how big the strips are as long as you cover the surface area. I actualy went kinda lax on my doors compared to the subaru. But i'll have to open the doors again later when i replace the speakers in a few weeks so if i want to add more then i will. I will say that doing the doors made a HUGE difference. My car is remarkably quite on the highway for the thin tires i have.
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Postby ballistik101 » Wed May 14, 2008 8:07 pm

nice!!! as soon as i get some extra cash this would be my next project
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Postby behrozec34 » Sat May 31, 2008 7:57 pm

thats awesome. What will you be putting in the trunk?
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Postby woa_its_j3ff » Sat May 31, 2008 8:23 pm

props man. I just did my whole car with dynamat. amazing difference, well worth the work though right?? :D
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Postby [SMAN] » Sat Jun 07, 2008 11:26 am

Onto the fiberglassing. For this subaru, we are doing a single 8" into each side panel. Space is tight so we need to maximize, but we want to keep the ability to go back to factory if needed. To start, you want to cover your area. We used blue painters tape cause it will not leave a residue.
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You want to do abotu 3 layers and criss cross them so there are no channels or gaps.

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Once you have your work area tapped off, lay a lot of news paper or other stuff around. This will help you in case of spillage and runoff wich you will definatly have.
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I like to press things flat when i work.
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Our finished workspace.
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On top of all this, you want to coat your mold area with a layer of wax. This will help release the mold as well as keep it from seeping through the tape. It's best to use "mold release wax" but any sort of carnuba solid wax will work. I'm jsut using a basic one.
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You want toget it on nice and thick.
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As for the fiberglass, you want to use random strand mat and cut it into roughly 2" pieces. Some longer some smaller. This will help because the smaller size will adhear to the curves better. This stuff has a tendency to straiten out when it's bigger, and that will leave you with gaps/air bubles.
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When working with this stuff, you want to reduce contact with bare skin as much as possible. Long pants and a shirt are a must (and it was record settign 90 degree temps today). Gloves are great too and as you can see, i taped my seams closed. This stuff itches like crazy and can cause a rash.
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As you can see, we press together the squares and soak them in resin. This stuff has a working time of 10 minutes so work quickly. Also, it is harmfull to your health to breath this stuff in, so work in a well ventilated area, and wear a resporator.
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Don't rush things and bight off more than you can chew, you mix to much together and you get this. A wasted brick of hard resin. This basicly meant i had to stop for the night cause i ran outa stuff.
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Day two, went to home depot and got much more of this stuff. Cheap paint brushes and mixing buckets are great. This stuff gets everywhere so make sure you don't mind ruining your cloths.
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We are making progress.
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This is just 1/3rd of all the waste i generated, but the stuff is cheap.
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Last minute shopping means last minute stuff. I don't recomend this brand, but i was out of the good stuff and in the middle of a job.
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You want to lay this stuff on 2 - 3 layers thick, making sure to get the seams good as they will take the most stress.
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And this is all i had left after everything was done.
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After curing all day, it's finaly hard enough to remove. Be carfull not to crack it as you pull it out. It will still be very brittle.
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And here is the final result. Later i will show you how we fill it and make the proper front for a sub.
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Last edited by [SMAN] on Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Jakecallun20 » Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:52 pm

Holy Hell. Nice job man, Major props
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