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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - SPEC Clutch
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

SPEC Clutch

SPEC Clutch

Postby that1mexguy » Fri Sep 30, 2005 4:50 am

Can someone explain to me the differences between Stages 1, 2, 2+, 3, etc.... looking at their website, all I notice is that the higher the stage, the more torque it can stand... is that correct? and is that all? how bout the way it drives? too rough? easier? harder? I see a lot of you guys have these, so I would like to know your opinions, thanks!!!
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Postby Fletch » Fri Sep 30, 2005 6:48 am

The "puck" style clutches are a little touchier, that is, stop and go city driving can be tiring for wimps. Seriously, it has a small friction window, but I like the feel. At times, I can feel shuttering or slight chatter creeping in 1st gear but it's really the just the nature of the part. A "disc" style is easier to drive.
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Postby that1mexguy » Fri Sep 30, 2005 7:27 am

Fletch wrote:The "puck" style clutches are a little touchier, that is, stop and go city driving can be tiring for wimps. Seriously, it has a small friction window, but I like the feel. At times, I can feel shuttering or slight chatter creeping in 1st gear but it's really the just the nature of the part. A "disc" style is easier to drive.


Ok and how do you determine which one is a "puck" or a "disc"?
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Postby Fletch » Fri Sep 30, 2005 9:15 am

Spec stage III is a puck style clutch, with 4-6 pucks sticking out in the picture on horsepowerfreaks website. A regular round type is a disc, I think, I've only ever bought one clutch. You don't have to get SPEC brand, but with the power you have I would get a pretty stout clutch.

Don't forget the LW flywheel.
2006 Legacy GT spec.B

(Totaled) '99 SE V6, TRD S/C, 5.5 psi Pulley, Jim's Fuel Upgrade, TRD Shortshifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Lightweight Flywheel, Tokico / Eibach, TRD RSB, 2.5" Custom Y-Pipe, Greddy Cat-Back
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Postby S99Solara » Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:16 am

just go with clutch master stage 1 or 2 is more then enough! :drinking:
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98 1MZ-FE Camry
SOLD! 1999 SE V6 5 Speed,Clutch Masters Stage 2 Clutch Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel, Tein / Tokico, Philips power2night GT150 H4, TWM Shortshifter, Optima Red Top Battery, TRD RSB
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Postby StockSolara » Fri Sep 30, 2005 1:43 pm

If you're still running stock power a stage one or two is good enough. . . Those Spec Stage 3 is more for higher power cars. . . haha I know this because my homeboi is using that for his 700 hp Supra
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Postby Sleeper » Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:30 am

what about for S/C cars? Is a SPEC 3 better? Who makes SPEC clutches ACT or Clutchmasters?
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Postby jeffrey_o » Sat Oct 01, 2005 4:39 am

Oops, ignore this one, read below.
Last edited by jeffrey_o on Sat Oct 01, 2005 4:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby jeffrey_o » Sat Oct 01, 2005 4:39 am

Here is the 'what you need to know' information about clutches.

The engine side of this clutch system is made up of one part, the flywheel. The transmission side is made up of two parts, a pressure plate, and a friction disc, (friction disc, six puck version seen here http://www.deucecoupe.org/img/act6puck.jpg )

The theory is that the engine spins the shaft that the flywheel is on. Now, that needs to be transferred to the transmission, but with just a shaft how can you do it? Obviously a small surface area such as a shaft isn't going to do it, thus you have a flywheel and a pressure plate. That was in the early days. The thought was that the flywheel would create a surface that the pressure plate could grab ahold of. Early testing failed, in order for the flywheel to be light enough to allow the shaft to spin, it would be too weak to stand up to the pressure from the heavy pressure plate. Eventually the friction disc came into the picture. This sits up against the flywheel and spins along with it. Disc ones look like one big round circle, and pucked ones are like the one you can see with the link above. This created a surface that the pressure plate could grab ahold of, and act as a median between it and the flywheel. Think like brakes now. Normal rotors are good but slotted or cross-drilled rotors are better, as proven by design. Clutches are the same way, the different designs are intended to allow more grip.

Next you might ask... my stock system was pretty good, what do I need more grip for? Well when you start making higher horsepower, eventually your disc system with its basic material isn't able to hold onto the flywheel when it starts spinning faster. It slips off the flywheel and you aren't able to transfer all the power your car is making to the transmission. Now you're losing power for a very lame reason. Heavier pressure plates and stronger friction discs are designed to withstand these higher power levels. It's a must for anyone reaching certain power levels.

Another question I hear alot is - Why do some people say that they had problems with a heavier plate or a different disc? Well, that's because the heavier the system, the harder it is to maintain rev's. Ever wonder why you have to rev as you're starting to move your car? Simple! When you're letting off your clutch pedal, and your pressure plate is closing in on the friction disc, when it makes contact, the heavy pressure plate slows the rotation of the friction disc down, thus, slowing your flywheel, then slowing the crank, then RPM's drop and your engine starts to die, you give it gas to maintain those RPM's and the spinning of those particularly vital parts. So with a heavier pressure plate or a stronger clutch disc, when you start to make contact it slows it down even FASTER and you have to give it more gas or at least more abruptly give it gas in order to keep your car from stalling. Thus, making it a bit harder on some heavier systems to enter into 1st gear.

This is real basic and I didn't go into all the detail I could. if you need to know anything else. Feel free to ask :D.
Last edited by jeffrey_o on Sat Oct 01, 2005 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Ian » Sat Oct 01, 2005 7:51 am

That was very a very understandable explanation. Thanks.
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Postby wiz2 » Sat Oct 01, 2005 7:56 am

For the SPEC clutches is there a range of each stage has ??
Like:
Stage 1 good for up to 300 ft/lb tq
Stage 2 good for up to 400 ft/lb tq

I think this is what Rene is looking for(me too).

With his current mods he should be closing in on 300 whp pretty quick and I know he doesnt want to do this damn thing twice !

Plus I need him to get his so I can copy !!!
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Postby that1mexguy » Sat Oct 01, 2005 8:51 am

wiz2 wrote:For the SPEC clutches is there a range of each stage has ??
Like:
Stage 1 good for up to 300 ft/lb tq
Stage 2 good for up to 400 ft/lb tq

I think this is what Rene is looking for(me too).

With his current mods he should be closing in on 300 whp pretty quick and I know he doesnt want to do this damn thing twice !

Plus I need him to get his so I can copy !!!


LOL you are a funny man... but yes, i'm looking for that, and keep in mind this is my daily driver... so I dont want a clutch that is going to ruin my knees. I've been looking around at the South Bend clutch and that one seems more "daily-driver" friendly but like I mentioned in that post... 1st time i hear about it, and nobody seems to know much on it either.
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Postby SC V6 » Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:25 am

I've got a stage 3 and I love it.. it is a little more challanging to drive.. but I love it
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Postby jeffrey_o » Sat Oct 01, 2005 12:04 pm

I did forget to mention that you get much better launches with clutches that are stronger than the horsepower you're at. IE if you're running 275 whp and you try to drop a clutch that's rated up to 300, you're not going to launch as hard as a clutch that is rated for 400. Depends on your numbers.
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Postby Ian » Sat Oct 01, 2005 5:59 pm

just go with clutch master stage 1 or 2 is more then enough!


Does anyone know where they still sell the Clutchmaster Stage two for a 2001 V6? I have looked at horsepowerfreaks, etc. and I only see SPEC and ACT clutches for the Solara.

From all the research on this site, Clutchmasters seems to have the most stock feel, which is what I want.

Thanks
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