Here's where most of us got our replacement bulbs:
http://autolumination.com/
No pics for this DIY, but take out the ashtray by pushing down the silver metal piece that says "Push." With the ashtray out, carefully start prying out the the center console. I always start from the bottom and work my way up. Put your fingers in the empty hole where the ashtray used to be and start pulling. The clips should pop off relatively easily. With the center console off, you need to unclip the clock and the hazard light connectors. Once the center console is removed, pull all three manual control knobs off (put all the knobs all the way to the left or right, that way you know which way to put them back on. I couldn't remove the the center knob, it actually just slid off for me as I removed the faceplate of the control head). Take a phillips screw driver and unscrew the three screws behind each knob. Once that's done, you can remove the faceplate of the control head which will reveal the bulbs. (there are two more screws which secure the manual control unit in place, you can remove those if you want to give yourself a little bit more room to work with, but I don't think it's necessary to replace the bulbs if I remember right). Just simply pull the bulbs out and replace (careful not to break the bulbs!) Put back on in reverse order.
**I remember now, only after writing all this, that there was a write up about how to do this. Should say the same thing, just try a search for it.