Best Place to Buy TRD Lowering Springs

[SoSleek]

Well the jobs done guys. All in all, it wasn't too bad. A few rusted bolts that required a lot of WD-40 and a wire brush, but it turned out great. The project took about 7 hours. During that time we also took about an hour and a half to grill some burgers and salmon. This was without air tools, which would have saved about half of the time. For us Gen2 guys the interior does NOT need to be removed. The only thing that needs to be removed in the rear interior is the carpet liner behind the back seat. Once that is removed there is enough room to access the upper strut bolts. I do have more tips that still save you guys time, and I may even do a write up at a later time, but for now if you have questions just ask on this thread or by PM. I'll post pics up tonight probably!

[LEE337]

Good Job!
Sounds like the Gen 2 is a lot easier than the Gen 1.

So what all had to come out to get to the top strut nuts?
Just the seats and rear dash lid?

So did ya change all 4 struts or just the rears?

Lots of questions, I know.
This Baylor chick I met that drives a Gen 2, great icebreaker , wants me to lower her Solara.

[SoSleek]

Good Job!
Sounds like the Gen 2 is a lot easier than the Gen 1.

So what all had to come out to get to the top strut nuts?
Just the seats and rear dash lid?

So did ya change all 4 struts or just the rears?

Lots of questions, I know.
This Baylor chick I met that drives a Gen 2, great icebreaker , wants me to lower her Solara.

Like i said in the my last post, all that had to be removed was the carpet panel behind the rear seat. Removing the seat wasn't necessary.

I didn't change any struts. Just installed TRD springs on my stock SE Sport struts.

The job is pretty straight forward. On each strut you need to remove 3 upper mount nuts, 2 lower mount nuts and bolts, 1 sway bar link nut, and 1 brake line mount bolt. Then you remove the strut/spring set up, and unscrew the strut shaft nut to remove the stock springs and install the TRD springs. Then put everything back together.

The only issue I ran into was the Sway Bar Link nut. The bolt coming out of the Sway Bar links ball joint has an allen wrench hole in the tip, and is fastened on with a large nut (17mm in front and 14mm in rear). because this bolt comes from a ball joint it does not have a head so you must hold the bolt with an allen wrench in the tip of the bolt while unscrewing the large nut. Because this bolt gets so rusty it require a lot of WD-40, wire brushing, and backing the nut out, then in (repeatedly) until you thread through the corrosion. It's hard to do without stripping out the allen wrench hole.

My biggest suggestion on this bolt is to hammer the allen wrench into the tip of the bolt so that is drives it as deep as possible into the hole. This will give you much less of a chance of rounding out the allen wrench hole. Remember to back the nut back and forth and clean each time to break through the corrosion, otherwise the rust with clog the threads and you will be Fvcked like I almost was

If you do run happen to round out one of the allen wrench holes in the tip of the bolt you can also clamp vice grips on the back side of the bolt (there is a plate that flares out from the bolt that you can clamp onto.

[SoSleek]

Lowered on TRD Springs - Click Here

[dchino]

Just had my Eibach's installed today (I think they are the manufacturer for TRD). I can concur that the back wasn't that bad to remove/install. Found out about the allen bolt myself prior to reading the post. Mine wasn't that bad to take apart. Too bad I forgot to take the bushing and lube to my brother's garage, so I couldn't install the RSB. I was surprised to see that the stock SE Sport has KYB struts.

Question: Anyone have problems with a popping/clicking noise in the front after installation? My friend suggested that it was just the springs adjusting/setting in, since it only make a slight popping noise when I drive below 20 mph, and on a holey asphalt road; and a little bit when I make a 90 degree turn (at low speed as well). No noise or poppin on the highway.

It was too dark, and I didn't have the tools with me to take off the wheels again to check it out.

Any feedback would help me sleep more at ease...

[SoSleek]

Yes, Mine did exactly as you described for about 500 miles or so, until everthing seated correctly again. I think the main thing was the front sway bar being tightened with the wheels suspended on jacks. Since those bolts are tightened so tight, the sway bar kinda has to work its way back to the correct height. But yes, it's just everything seating. Should go away soon!

[dchino]

Thanks Sleek! Big relief!!