RSB Install for noobs.
Thinner/younger guys can do this without jacking the car up. I think jackin makes it easy and I wanted to get some decent pics. There is no trouble fitting the new stuff in as long as you have equal load on both sides. The RSB tries to keep the wheels at the same level and twists when one is higher than the other. Jacked up both will be be at max extension.
Here's what you need...
1. Grease - Synthetic is best for cold weather
2. 12 box end wrench
3. 14mm socket wrench
4. 5mm Allen wrench (hex)
5. Torque wrench if you have one (Mine's a classic)
opt - wire brush for cleaning up fittings.
opt - lubricant for cleaning up fittings, penetrating oil if you have bound bolts.
Step 1
Disconnect the ball joint (Image 1) from both ends of the RSB. Use a 5mm Allen (hex) wrench and a 12mm box-end wrench. The hex wrench is to keep the ball joint from rotating. (See Image 2)
Step 2
Using a 14mm socket (extension helps) remove three bolts from each RSB mount. (Image 3)
Step 3
Twist the "legs" of the RSB toward the front and you can sneak it through the side. It should be easier to go to the right side, but I was locked in by the Convertible bracing. Either way you have to get one side over the exhaust. Be careful of the brake lines. Don't kink them.
Step 4
Slide the new RSB into place BEFORE bringing out the grease. (Don't ask how I know...) Do the opposite of getting the old one out.
Step 5
Grease up each end of the straight section where the spindles will go on. Lay it on thick and slap the rubber spindles on.
Step 6
Rough in the three bolts on the mounts but don't torque them down until you have them all in place and the RSB is settled in place. (You might want to clean up those nasty threads and lubricate first) Then torque the bolts to 29 ft/lbs. (no torque wrench? that's about as hard as you can get them with a standard 8" socket wrench)
Step 7
Reconnect the ball joints. The hole on the end is closer to stock while the inside hole will give you stiffer/less roll/more performance. Most choose middle.
You're done... here's the old and the new.
[/quote]
[edit]pointed to new host for pics... sorry for the x's.[/edit]
[edit2]and again... they got case sensitive all of a sudden.[/edit2]
Here's what you need...
1. Grease - Synthetic is best for cold weather
2. 12 box end wrench
3. 14mm socket wrench
4. 5mm Allen wrench (hex)
5. Torque wrench if you have one (Mine's a classic)
opt - wire brush for cleaning up fittings.
opt - lubricant for cleaning up fittings, penetrating oil if you have bound bolts.
Step 1
Disconnect the ball joint (Image 1) from both ends of the RSB. Use a 5mm Allen (hex) wrench and a 12mm box-end wrench. The hex wrench is to keep the ball joint from rotating. (See Image 2)
Step 2
Using a 14mm socket (extension helps) remove three bolts from each RSB mount. (Image 3)
Joe Ragtop wrote:Convertible only: Remove a rear brace. One bolt in the rear, two on the side. The front brace is fastened on by the same forward bolt on the side. As pictured, I removed the right side brace and ended up having to work around the exhaust pipe. You might want to try the left brace so you have a better angle when you have to get over that. If it works better, please post so I can edit this. {swindler note: three more bolts and you can just take off both braces making it a cake walk to get it out.}
Step 3
Twist the "legs" of the RSB toward the front and you can sneak it through the side. It should be easier to go to the right side, but I was locked in by the Convertible bracing. Either way you have to get one side over the exhaust. Be careful of the brake lines. Don't kink them.
Step 4
Slide the new RSB into place BEFORE bringing out the grease. (Don't ask how I know...) Do the opposite of getting the old one out.
Step 5
Grease up each end of the straight section where the spindles will go on. Lay it on thick and slap the rubber spindles on.
Step 6
Rough in the three bolts on the mounts but don't torque them down until you have them all in place and the RSB is settled in place. (You might want to clean up those nasty threads and lubricate first) Then torque the bolts to 29 ft/lbs. (no torque wrench? that's about as hard as you can get them with a standard 8" socket wrench)
Step 7
Reconnect the ball joints. The hole on the end is closer to stock while the inside hole will give you stiffer/less roll/more performance. Most choose middle.
You're done... here's the old and the new.
[/quote]
[edit]pointed to new host for pics... sorry for the x's.[/edit]
[edit2]and again... they got case sensitive all of a sudden.[/edit2]
Last edited by Down2TheC on Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:41 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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"We need failures in this world... failures gives us lap dances and chicken nuggets and I like both."
"We need failures in this world... failures gives us lap dances and chicken nuggets and I like both."
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Down2TheC - SolaraGuy Moderator
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