Higher than stock 4psi boost on the 1MZ-FE?

by **Alex(AUS)** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 4:24 am

The compression result sounds pretty good. What you are saying about the 6psi pulley doesnt sound good. I have blown my knock sensors and my car didnt shake it just pulled timing which made it slow and acceleration was eratic. It could be running lean. Which fuel modifications do you have? I have the URD kit ...

Alex

by **I4 to V6 Swap** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 8:40 am

After i put on the pulley, I drove the car, never going over 2500 rpms. At 2100, the car started to vibrate really hard, adn the exhaust sounded like a boxter engine's exhaust. I was worried, and that was when the CEL started to flash. It didn't come on. After I pulled over and turned off the car to look at it, there was nothing I could see that was wrong. After that, I started it up, and it doing the same thing, but this time, the CEL stayed on. Can you describe in more detail what the acceleration was like when you had the knock sensors blow. All I can desribe was it wasn't a smooth accleration. It is really bumpy and smoothens out if you stay at a constant speed, or roll in neutral.

I also bought and installed th URD kit. I am sure I installed everything correctly. The injectors, plugs, and piggy back computer. I have yet to install the thermostat though.

I just took the battery off, hoping to reset the computer. I probably will check it again later tonight.

Any ideas?

by **SC V6** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 8:43 am

that sounds like extreme knocking.. I would check out immediatly a compression test.. also.. once a knock sensor blows, it never is the same.. it needs to be replaced... so disconnecting the battery will only turn it off for a bit, then later it will turn back on... Of course this is assuming that the cel is the knock sensors.. it could also be misfiring.. I had the same thing, but it was when I tried to floor it... it eventually worked its way out, but if you were only at 2500rpms, its probably not that.. id go get it checked out

by **I4 to V6 Swap** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 6:32 pm

I removed the battery for most of the day, I started the car and let it idle for a while. It seems to smoothen out more. It will only shake when there is a load put on the engine. I would pul the throttle, and put my hand on the engine and feel the engine shake. That worries me. The CEL is not on, so I am assuming my knock sensors are the problem. I am not 100% sure. I don't really have money to buy an OBDII scanner, but I might have to get one anyway. I am sure there are other problems. I will most likely take it to a really good mechanic on Monday. It is just a waiting game.

by **Alex(AUS)** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:10 am

This doesnt sound like knock sensors at all.

When I blew my knock sensors it was possible to drive the car with the CEL (and blown knock sensors) as long as I didnt accelerate hard (it didnt matter how high I revved). It felt like boost was building but the car didnt accelerate ... it was also sortof like an acceleration on/off, on/off, on/off .... The car was quite smooth (just poor at accelerating).

What you are saying sounds like something small and stupid. Have you checked all your hoses?

Alex

by **I4 to V6 Swap** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 9:25 am

I probably have been overlooking a lot of things. I need to take a closer look.

by **I4 to V6 Swap** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 1:23 pm

Found the problem. Something really stupid. No spark in one of the cylinders. I didn't even bother to check the spark plugs. Runs fine so far. Next step to dyno tune and pass smog.

by **Alex(AUS)** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 12:39 am

Told you!

Make sure you get a good tune and post some dyno charts ...

Alex

by **I4 to V6 Swap** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 3:36 am

Yeah, I hit that point where I personally no longer could find the solution. I hit that wall. Then the problem was found. Something so stupid.

I hopet o dyno tune soon. Maybe next month when I have some money. The last two things I need are CAI and a dyno tune. I will post.

Thanks

Website · by **TRD_solaRa** » Wed Dec 15, 2004 11:24 am

So I started thinking . . . you think that more than 4 psi period (whether its from a Supercharger or Turbo) is too much. I don't believe that there would be that much of a difference . . .

by **Alex(AUS)** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:05 am

A turbo and a supercharger are not the same and thus max boost levels will vary.

I also think that 6psi (supercharger) is fine as long as you change the injectors, pump and tune the car (with some form of ECU or piggy-back) and run high octane fuel.

Alex

by **grnsolara** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 6:04 pm

I have 6 psi of boost, 190 pump, supra injectors, and a SS FTC. A Toyota dealership recommended pulling the FTC altogether and letting the ECU adjust the fuel trims accordingly since I've been having so many problems. I can't tell him why not, but I know there has to be a reason since all you guys concur that it's a good thing. What exactly should I tell him the reason is that I don't want to pull the FTC?

by **209solara** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 11:26 pm

if i s/c an auto with around 73k, is it ok to just start out with the 5.5 psi pulley? do i need to work my self up to it? will no extra mods besides intake be ok or is it necessary to get fuel pump, injectors etc now? would it also behoove me to have my timing belt changed during the install? thanks in advance for all the help.

by **Fletch** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 4:36 am

209solara Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:26 pm Post subject:

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if i s/c an auto with around 73k, is it ok to just start out with the 5.5 psi pulley? do i need to work my self up to it? will no extra mods besides intake be ok or is it necessary to get fuel pump, injectors etc now? would it also behoove me to have my timing belt changed during the install? thanks in advance for all the help.

I have been okay, but I have 93 octane, I am only running off one knock sensor though. Do plugs, injectors before the S/C is installed because getting to the rear bank is next to impossible after it is on. I think the fuel pressure regulator is on the rear bank also.

by **JoeB** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 5:57 am

grnsolara wrote:I have 6 psi of boost, 190 pump, supra injectors, and a SS FTC. A Toyota dealership recommended pulling the FTC altogether and letting the ECU adjust the fuel trims accordingly since I've been having so many problems. I can't tell him why not, but I know there has to be a reason since all you guys concur that it's a good thing. What exactly should I tell him the reason is that I don't want to pull the FTC?

grnsolara, I would turn that question around to him. What exactly does he hope to gain by taking the FTC out of the car? That's kind of silly. The FTC adjusts for fuel and timing. After all the fuel system mods, the ECU will not be able to properly adjust the fuel trims. If you go into those grids and 0 (10 is the centered or 0 value - DON'T use 0!) out the values, it is effectively like disabling it or "taking it out". The ECU will try to pull the closed loop values in to 0 out the fuel trims. The FTC will then trick the value to make it think it did what was needed, that's its job. All he has to do is work to get the closed loop values 0d out first, then start tuning the open loop. It isn't rocket science, what's the problem?

If he insists on taking it out, just tell him to set the values all to 10 to effectively remove all correction from the FTC. Then he should reset the ECU (pull power). Reconnect and see what the closed loop fuel trims look like after driving it around in closed loop for a while. Adjust the trims in the bottom end to get the closed loop values 0d out, only then should he move to tuning the open loop values. See if that helps. -JoeB

Higher than stock 4psi boost on the 1MZ-FE?

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