Brakes with 100K+ miles

by **el guapo** » Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:51 pm

All,

It was time to purchase some new tires so I go on over to a local tire dealer. My '99 SE V6 is still on its original brake pads from when I bought the car new in July '99 (23 on the odometer). I asked the manager to look at my brakes and tell me how close I was to having to replace the pads. I was surprised to hear that I've got 50% left on the pads. Its 10.5 miles to work one way, and nine of those miles are highway. I'm planning on replacing the pads with OEM pads from the dealer when its time.

How many of you would replace the pads now after 103,000 miles even though you've got 50% left? If its not broken, don't fix it?

Thanks

by **Mole** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:02 am

yeah, if it's not broken don't fix it...

however if it's not broken, i'm bored then upgrade it.

by **krawzyazn** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:04 am

right behind you with almost 70k on stock pads and rotors

by **Fletch** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:21 am

OEM pads seems pretty good, but my OEM rotors were warped so I went aftermarket. There are several other stories of warped rotors on this forum also.

by **TadS** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:06 am

Fletch wrote:OEM pads seems pretty good, but my OEM rotors were warped so I went aftermarket. There are several other stories of warped rotors on this forum also.

Same here, I had over 50% of the pads left and some massive warping.

by **el guapo** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:30 am

Did you all replace your stock rotors with the same size aftermarket, or did you all replace the rotors and pads with bigger/beefier ones?

Which manufacturers are considered some of the best for aftermarket rotors? I'd like to keep the same stock size.

by **Fletch** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 9:19 am

I got stock size for a couple reasons. I run the stock 16" wheels in the winter and the bigger rotors require caliper relocation brackets or a whole new big brake kit which are pretty salty.

Rotora just came out with big brake kit for around $2k and I think EricSol had a caliper relocation kit for around $500. Each would require bigger wheels.

Check tirerack.com to get started. Lots of OE replacement stuff out there. I might go power slot if I did it again.

by **TadS** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:04 am

el guapo wrote:Did you all replace your stock rotors with the same size aftermarket, or did you all replace the rotors and pads with bigger/beefier ones?

Which manufacturers are considered some of the best for aftermarket rotors? I'd like to keep the same stock size.

I used Eric's kit. I run a 17" wheel with an all-weather tire. It works well for me.

by **el guapo** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 4:28 pm

What about brake pads? I've put on EBC pads on my motorcycle and they work great...but what about for our Solaras? I hear Brembo pads are great, but are they good for highway use? Don't they work best a high temps as opposed to cold "bite" on the highway?

Also, I've heard that the aftermarket rear brake pads don't seem to fit quite right on the OEM calipers.

by **808_JMZ** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:21 pm

What size rotors does eric's kit allow?

by **RichD978** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 6:58 pm

few questions . appreciate it if you guys help out...

1.what does warping mean?
2. Around my 65K when i steped on my brakes it had some squeal... like cat scratching a chalkboard. Is that warping? what cause it?
3. I had my brake pads changed when that happened. The mechanic siad he cut the front rotors for me. Whats cutting the rotors mean?

Thanks.

I love my solara and cant get enouigh out of it. I try to do as much DIY as i can but i dont know much. Anyone know where i can go to school to learn about cars? I graduated highschool 2 years ago and dropped out of college. I need a career. And I would love to go to school and learn how to work on cars.

by **808_JMZ** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:05 pm

1) Your rotors "warp" due to the thermal heating/cooling process. Basically they get bent (similar to dishes becoming uneven after lots of cycles in the dishwasher). Nowadays, they usually dont warp, the surface get worn down uneven, but the effects are similar to warping and thats still the term we use.

2) The effects of warping is "shuttering" or "shaking" when you step on the brakes, usually very noticable while braking at high speeds. The scratching could be that the pads are worn down too much and nonpad material is contacting the rotor causing scratching. At 65k that would be likely for most pads.

3) That was probably the correct thing to do, but you can always visually check the pad. New pads are about an 3/4th of an inch thick. It could also be that the paste used to quiet down the pad wore away. When you change pads and reuse the same rotor, there might be a lip on the edge of the rotor due to it being worn down from the previous pad. The new pad wont have the same shape as the worn down pad, so you'll have to cut the lip off the rotor.

You can take mechanics at a community college (Jr college I think for you mainland people:) ) and get certified and become a mechanic. I have friends who are doing that.

by **TadS** » Fri Feb 25, 2005 6:06 am

808_JMZ wrote:What size rotors does eric's kit allow?

It uses rotors from a 1994+ Supra TT. They are monsters compared to the little O.E. ones.

by **Jai_Jai_Binks** » Fri Feb 25, 2005 9:08 am

TadS wrote:
808_JMZ wrote:What size rotors does eric's kit allow?

It uses rotors from a 1994+ Supra TT. They are monsters compared to the little O.E. ones.

What would be the minimum wheel sizing you would say for those you mentioned? Cus' most of the time, i'm on 15's. (cheaper tires...)

by **TadS** » Fri Feb 25, 2005 11:05 am

I think it would require a 17" wheel. I would guess I have a half inch of clearance, at most, between the caliper and the wheel.

Brakes with 100K+ miles

Brakes with 100K+ miles

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