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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Engine Performance Discussion-- Dont enter if your an ass!!!
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Engine Performance Discussion-- Dont enter if your an ass!!!

Engine Performance Discussion-- Dont enter if your an ass!!!

Postby DatSRBoi » Sun Jul 03, 2005 9:46 am

Ok....Lots of people always do the claiming deal how oh my god my intake 'feel' a crap loud faster. Or my exhaust makes my car take off faster......Im beginning to believe all this is not true. Heres why

1) When I first got my car "FULLY STOCK", I raced 6 cars and WOOP the heck out of them.Accord V6, Civic Built Motor SI, Celica GTS,Tegra LS, Hatch back LS motor, Regular Mustang... An so forth. Im not sayin Im the best but for a solara to hang with these car is pretty good specially when those car were all tuners and pro shifters.

2)Then I started to fix up the car, I added new 17 imch rims, Full cat back tanabe G medalion exhaust, and K&N drop in and drop the car, and ground wire the motor.... Other then the rims I expected all the other performance part to bring me power. So I took the car out and raced the same accord I wooped the first time. WTFFFF I lost and not just lost but by 5 car lenth and still going... and that car wasnt retuned. Same as it was.

My car didnt add any weight what so ever but it comes to show that performace part may give your car a tonier sound and perfornace feel, But for some reason I think its slowing down the solara...And I am a good shifter, Shifted at red line NO MISTAKE... (And yes I do race and pratice allot so my timing is good, not a wannabe so spishhh)

Has anyone raced an accord V6 before 2000 model coupe? I wooped them all the time until these performace upgrade. I know exhaust drop TQ but these were also high end racing where Hp takes over.. That same accord kept up with my friends Type S Prelude which i lost badly over with last night...I was like WTH why my car cant keep up..(We raced on a close country side 5 lane road..No car around)
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Postby Astro » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:24 am

IMO, I don't think intake and muffler will do all that much on a n/a car. I think to get the most out of them is to have forced induction. To me, it's like you upped the air, but not the fuel or spark. Thus, you ecu has to adjust for more air probably giving you less power or running lean.

Get a s/c and you'll smoke those guys no prob! :lol:
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Postby SC V6 » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:25 am

I've beat a few of the accords w\ the 2000 body style w\ the v6.. my brother has one, and I absolutly wasted him.. made him look like he was standing still... Not sure why you car would be running slower.. are you supercharged? the exhaust and intake could have opened the engine up too much for NA and caused a loss in low end torque... a few things could cause it.. A stock solara has the intake and exhaust to run w\ it perfectly from stock.. once thigns change the whole setup will be effected...
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Postby BradOwens » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:37 am

i have a greddy cat-back and a K&N drop in. i would say the exhaust does make u loose some tq...but result in higher revving and hp. the free flow air filter should improve ur torque tho. so yea im also runnin 17s like u. im pretty sure its the exhaust...it jus has less of a torque curve down low. jus my opinion.
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:40 am

the exhaust made you lose back pressure so you don't have the torque that you once had... back pressure used in regulation helps increase the torque band while sacrificing high end.

The 1MZ advantage was with the torque... you pull passed the car from the beginning and he just catches up the rest of the time. Since you killed your low end for a little more high end, you lose. VTEC > 1MZ w/o VVT-i. Your advantage was the early lead while he catches up... because if you watch the race, you see that the accord starts to catch up after a while (due to vtec and the fact you're passed the torque race) so in essence, the accord is faster. He has 200 peak while you have 190 peak hp.

I sort of babbled on ... but I think you know what I mean. The accord would win either way, it's just the torque that gives you a starter's lead that you almost maintain through the race. He's literally catching up after you're out of the part where torque is important.

---

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---

1MZ vs 2AZ (02-3 Solara): We're even in first gear (torque is used) then in 2nd, the 1MZ will start to pull out slowly... 3rd gear is where the 1MZ moves. The 2AZ, although it has a lower peak torque (160 vs 1mz's 212) has a boarder range due to VVT-i... go ride in a 02-3 Solara w/ a 2AZ and tell me that it's not torquier (making up words lol) than a 1MZ in 1st gear.
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Postby Turbosolara » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:48 am

I think your car just need proper tune up. or maybe while you think you upgraded your car and at same time, you messed up at some where (maybe the k&N is hella dirty, maybe you have exhaust leak..etc). or it could be your shifting skill getting sucks

i raced with my friend's 00 accord coupe with injen intake and greddy catback, I kicked his ass hard
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Postby DatSRBoi » Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:58 am

My K&N filter is brand new out of the sexy bag, and all bolts and screws are tighten and selaed up. My friend told me I should retune the car since his freinds Evo after upgrading its turbo was slower.. So Im guessing Either take off that exhaust or soemthing. Because its annoying how when even Im just cruising on the highway that the rpm take its time as if Im turbo trying to spoil..its really annoying. Guess toyota did kept what it said. Built for overall performance not power...
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Postby StockSolara » Sun Jul 03, 2005 11:08 am

You should keep your parts but reset your ECU. . . it does help sometimes. . . or maybe your homeboi in the accord has NOS now or something and he didn't want to tell you just to piss you off
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Postby DatSRBoi » Sun Jul 03, 2005 11:14 am

StockSolara wrote:You should keep your parts but reset your ECU. . . it does help sometimes. . . or maybe your homeboi in the accord has NOS now or something and he didn't want to tell you just to piss you off
Ahaha I did thought the Tpe S prelude was nos'ing but found out it was only him intentionally mishifting or so to let me catch up...What a pain...

I do reset my ECU allot by D/C the battery and all.. But Im seeing that its not really working at all. I really do need to S/C. But thats too high of a price for me to pay right now. Specially when I cant find a deal with payment option and no bank wants to do it for under 3 grand.
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Postby StockSolara » Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:47 pm

DatSRBoi wrote:
StockSolara wrote:You should keep your parts but reset your ECU. . . it does help sometimes. . . or maybe your homeboi in the accord has NOS now or something and he didn't want to tell you just to piss you off
Ahaha I did thought the Tpe S prelude was nos'ing but found out it was only him intentionally mishifting or so to let me catch up...What a pain...

I do reset my ECU allot by D/C the battery and all.. But Im seeing that its not really working at all. I really do need to S/C. But thats too high of a price for me to pay right now. Specially when I cant find a deal with payment option and no bank wants to do it for under 3 grand.

I say get the CAI, MSD DIS-4, and Hyper Voltage System Type HR (High Rev) it will help with your rpm and give you a kick on high end. . . I have those and the it really does help
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Postby DatSRBoi » Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:52 pm

I thought the Cold Air Intake were meant for low ends? And were can I find a MSD DIS-4 for cheap? Never knew these thing will fit on solara since our spark system is so different from other car with distrubitor.
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Postby StockSolara » Sun Jul 03, 2005 1:17 pm

DatSRBoi wrote:I thought the Cold Air Intake were meant for low ends? And were can I find a MSD DIS-4 for cheap? Never knew these thing will fit on solara since our spark system is so different from other car with distrubitor.

CAI works more for high end because of the less retriction it will create more hp. . .

MSD DIS 4 I got mine from Ebay unless you can find some where else that will sell it cheaper. . . The DIS-4 is made for distributorless engine and along with that you will need to buy two MSD Tach Adapter 8912 or else it won't work. The MSD will work more for a consistent power through out the RPM range and it will give you better spark for S/C and Turbo Engines. . . because the wind comes into the cylinders at high speeds from the s/c and turbo. . . it can blow out a spark so when you add the MSD it will make sure you will get consistent spark all through your RPM. . .

For the Hyper Voltage System Type-HR (High Rev) it will help stabilize the electrical flow from the battery and holds a charge from the battery than releases the amount of power at high voltage and since it works more for High Rev. . . That means it will kick in on higher rpm and it sorta seems like VVT-i kicking in because when it gets to around 5K the rpm actually picks up a lot quicker. . . I know it isn't just me cause a couple of homebois test drove my car with out knowing about the Hyper Voltage System and they were like, "WTH?!?!?! it hella picks up at 5K, Do you have VVT-i?". . . The system actually comes in 2 other types too which is LR (low rev) and MR(multi rev) it is up to you for what you think will make your better for you. . .

haha so yeah try those parts out. . . just my 2 cents for all the parts I have experianced. . . :D
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Postby shidosha01 » Mon Jul 04, 2005 6:34 am

Astro wrote:IMO, I don't think intake and muffler will do all that much on a n/a car. I think to get the most out of them is to have forced induction. To me, it's like you upped the air, but not the fuel or spark. Thus, you ecu has to adjust for more air probably giving you less power or running lean.

Get a s/c and you'll smoke those guys no prob! :lol:


I agree with my man Larry. The only kind of power you're going to notice and feel is when you install a supercharger on your V6. It is like day and night. GET AN S/C.
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Postby PhreakdOut » Mon Jul 04, 2005 7:22 am

I think you've reached the point where additional horsepower starts to cost real bucks. (Bolt-ons can only go so far.) But they become much more effective when combined with other hard mods.) In short, the new intake and exhaust are nice, but if she ain't suckin' and blowin' harder, then the thrill is minimal.

Some options to fill your head and empty your wallet are:
- Head work. (Port , polish, valve job.)
- Custom intake, throttle body swap
- New CAMs
- Engine rebuild - new higher compression forged pistons, lighter rods, over boaring, etc ...
- Engine and ECU swap.
- Fuel and ignition mapping (Not easy)
- Fuel injectors and pump
- Turbocharging (Expensive and VERY difficult)
- Supercharging and installation of a Puley Boys S/C Pulley (expensive)
- NOS. (Easy but a quick way to destroy your engine if you don't get the A/F correct or if the internals can't take the strain.)
- Differential gearing
- On and on ...

The Honda boys have it easy since the aftermarket is filled with parts for them. (Why, I have no idea.) My advice is figure just how fast you really need to go. Then discuss it with a local tuner shop. (Offer them $50 to look at the car, drive it and give you some recomendations.) They will be able to help you get the right combination of parts and the order that they need to be installed. Again, it's the combination and timing that makes the magic work.

Good luck and don't get frustrated too quickly.
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Postby DatSRBoi » Mon Jul 04, 2005 9:04 am

Yeah...Gay How Solara dont have allot of aftermarket toys. So rare that the price is just insane..When My mocie complilation comes out in 2 week, Youll see what I mean by that Type S prelude Rape my solara.
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