~Spadwaller~ wrote:Kermy wrote:Thanks everybody for the advice. Change of tires, battery, fluids it is!
brake pads! check for leaks too and get the A/C checked
Isn't that being just a bit paranoid for a vehicle that has only been sitting around for half a year.
I had a '66 Plymouth that as things would break down and I have to hunt for parts/money the car would sit for long periods of time. The longest being about 1 1/2 years.
If this Solara was sitting for 6 years that would be one thing. But 6 months is no worries. At most the gas will be water logged but you can go to a parts store and get some gas additive. There are several additives specifically formulated to revive old gas that has been sitting out.
Brake pads are not made of bread or mayonnaise they don't go bad when they sit out. At most the pressure in the brake lines may bleed off slighly and make for a mushy pedal, just pump the pedal a few times and the firmness should return.
Tires will not form, "bald spots" from sitting in one spot to long. Just inspect the side walls and look for any evidence or cracking in the rubber which can happen if they have been sitting out exposed to the elements and direct sunlight for extended periods. But even then it would make for a serviceable tire, just don't expect to Indy race on them. If you buried a tire today and then came back 100 years later and dug it up, guess what, it would still look like a tire. Most likely, though, all that will be needed is to top off the air pressure.
Which brings me to the need to check the A/C out. Refrigerant pressure in A/C system does not naturally dissipate like it does from a tire. A function A/C system should not be lossing refrigerant on its own. If you get into a car that has been sitting for a while and it suddenly doesn't get cold anymore that is a sign that your have a material problem in your A/C system somewhere that is letting refrigerant leak out. This would require maintenance regardless of whether the vehicle was sitting out or was being driven every day. It is just one one situation you may notice a big change, i.e. "the last time I got in this car 6 months ago it was blowing ice cubes now it dead" vs. "You know I didn't realize it till just now but I don't think my A/C is blowing as cold as it used to about 6 months ago."
I agree that changing the oil would be a good idea. Over time it does accumulate some moisture and may have some water and sediment sitting in the bottom of the sump pan. Even then, if you were lazy and didn't change it, you'd be fine, the filter would collect most all of it. The automotive shop manager I used to work for had a 650 HP BB Chevy 484ci that he ran for several days with oil that looked like a milk shake. The reason being that I had removed a water plug to install a coolant temperature sending unit while a valve cover was removed. It gushed out water and went straight down into the oil sump pan. He didn't seem to concerned as we were just testing a tuning various jets on the carb and investigating a oiling problem with a valve tappet (hence the reason the valve cover was off). It seemed no worse for the wear.
The biggest concern here with an engine that hasn't been run in a while is that all the oil that once generously coated all your vital engine components is most likely run off into the sump pan. On a completely dry engine it can take up to 15 minutes for oil to return to all the bearing surfaces. Don't get to excited when the car starts up and start revving it like a mad man, just let it idle and warm up and get the lubrication going. If you are really worried about all the galling that is occuring on the bearing and piston ring surfaces during that initial startup then you can pull all the spark plugs out of the motor and use your starter motor to turn the engine over for 5/1-2 minute crankings to get a good pre-lubrication going. Admittedly this is hard on the starter motor and the battery so if you do this don't mercilessly crank on the starter for 10 minutes straight. Do it for a minute then let the starter and battery rest and cool down then rinse and repeat. Then, return all the spark plugs and idle the engine for a little while. Again, IMHO doing this on a car that has been sitting around for just several months would still be a paranoid. But if it makes you feel better....
Even the battery should be fine from sitting around for several months. If your batter is completely dead then either (a) a cell went bad in the battery and take it back where it came from to get a prorated replacement under warranty (b) you have an open ground somewhere in your electrical system bleeding off charge while it sits(which can cause a cell to go bad). To avoid the possibility of scenario (b) from occuring its best to remove the positive battery terminal cable before letting your vehicle sit in storage for extended periods. 9 times out of 10 you can return the cable to its appropriate terminal and voila it will crank right over.
by Kermy » Thu Aug 25, 2005 9:27 pm 
