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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - How do you know????
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

How do you know????

How do you know????

Postby SleeperSolara » Fri Jun 09, 2006 7:04 am

If you brake Master Cylinder is goin' bad.
Cause i've bleed the brakes, replaced the old brake fluid for new one.
Gotten new pads on all 4 and just got rotors for the front.
Will see if the rotors will help it.
Cause brakes still feel spongy which i hate.
I want that dang quick repsonse.....
What you think????
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Postby Nyyankees3511 » Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:15 am

Sounds like there could be air in the lines.
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Postby SleeperSolara » Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:30 am

Nyyankees3511 wrote:Sounds like there could be air in the lines.


Naw man, bled all 4 about 3-5 times each "Turbo Magazine" style.
And all the old fluid and air bubble came out.
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Postby DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy » Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:57 am

switch to stainless steel braided lines. Could probably just be no problem with your brake system. rubber brake line hoses expand when the brake is pressed. imo
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Postby Jai_Jai_Binks » Fri Jun 09, 2006 9:02 am

SleeperSolara wrote:Naw man, bled all 4 about 3-5 times each "Turbo Magazine" style.

What is that, I've never heard "turbo mag" before. i've heard different terms, gravity bled/top to bottom, drip bleading, etc...but this was different to me. hence asking.
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Postby SleeperSolara » Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:18 am

Jai_Jai_Binks wrote:
SleeperSolara wrote:Naw man, bled all 4 about 3-5 times each "Turbo Magazine" style.

What is that, I've never heard "turbo mag" before. i've heard different terms, gravity bled/top to bottom, drip bleading, etc...but this was different to me. hence asking.


Well you use a turkey baster, and take out the old fluid and put in the new fluid, and you pour some of the new fluid in a yogurt canister about half way, and then you put your tube on the bleed nipple on the caliper, and then you put the other end in the container wit new fluid, and then you tell your helper to push on the brake pedal and then you open the bleeder and the old fluid will be pushed out, and you keep on doin' it til all the old fluid is out.
You will notice when new fluid is comin' out, but you have to remember to refill the brake reservior every once in awhile.

That how "Turbo Magazine" did it.
And i got all the old fluid out.

"DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy": Yeah i know what you are talkin' about.
But don't want to deal wit that now.
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Postby bronzemaxell » Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:30 pm

DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy wrote:switch to stainless steel braided lines. Could probably just be no problem with your brake system. rubber brake line hoses expand when the brake is pressed. imo


i think i read somewhere it said stainless steel braided lines are some what illegal, and will put driver in danger if it fails due to poor quality, unless you get some extremely expensive high quality one.
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Postby krook » Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:13 pm

bronzemaxell wrote:i think i read somewhere it said stainless steel braided lines are some what illegal, and will put driver in danger if it fails due to poor quality, unless you get some extremely expensive high quality one.

no offense, but this sentence is an oxymoron. ALL stainless steel kits are illegal EXCEPT the expensive ones...?

if SS brake line kits are illegal, someone should sue Goodridge for producing thousands upon thousands of them or various vehicles.

i think you're thinking of the thread that was posted a while back, and as i recall, it's more of some schmoe's personal rant rather than a professional observation. it's too opinionated.

http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php? ... rake+lines
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Postby SleeperSolara » Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:04 pm

Guys, guys......
Just to let you know i've been thinkin' about SS brake lines, but not now.
I need to know how to tell if the brake master cylinder is goin' bad or not, if i have new pads and new front rotors....
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Postby TadS » Sun Jun 11, 2006 4:44 pm

Beyond a visual inspection for leaks, and checking the fluid level to watch for internal leaks, the best way to tell if the master-cylinder is bad is too bench test it, at least that’s what I prefer to do. Granted, I would check the pressure at the calipers first, that would eliminate the master cylinder. I doubt that is the problem though. It doesn't make sense. To me it sounds like the bleeding wasn't done well enough. Remember also, that your new pads will need to bed-in, and mate properly to the rotors. They may feel soft for the first 100 miles or so.
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Postby SleeperSolara » Sun Jun 11, 2006 5:40 pm

TadS wrote:Beyond a visual inspection for leaks, and checking the fluid level to watch for internal leaks, the best way to tell if the master-cylinder is bad is too bench test it, at least that’s what I prefer to do. Granted, I would check the pressure at the calipers first, that would eliminate the master cylinder. I doubt that is the problem though. It doesn't make sense. To me it sounds like the bleeding wasn't done well enough. Remember also, that your new pads will need to bed-in, and mate properly to the rotors. They may feel soft for the first 100 miles or so.


Thanks for info man.
Will probably see if my friend can help me on it.
Since he really good at the brake stuff.
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Postby NeFaRiOuS_SLE » Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:40 am

Since my roomate's car recently had a BMC failure and needed to be replaced on her 91 Accord (and guess who has to risk his life taking it to the dealership? Right... At least it was only a few blocks away and I engine-braked and pumped the brakes to regain pressure):

Safest way to check for leaks: Pop your car in neutral (takes longer in a drive gear, at least my observance on a 5spd) and place your foot on the brakes and wait about a minute. If it starts sinking to the floor under moderate pressure, that indicates a leak. If there is little to no movement you should be good.

You can either try it braking over a long distance (e.g. about 1 residential block for a 30-0, or like some old ladies who think they're carrying a nuke bomb) or slamming on the brakes, but they both pose a safety risk.
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