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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Injen Heat Shield
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

Injen Heat Shield

Injen Heat Shield

Postby stund41 » Sun Sep 17, 2006 5:49 pm

Whats going on guys, just wanted to post and see if anyone has one of those injen heat shields with their car and more importantly what size is our injen filter????(the one that comes with the short ram.)

Heres the problem, I have the injen cold air system (upfd extension) which I love because of the sound it makes with the supercharger!!!! (yes I know the CPE intake is crazy, but I am not going to be the pioneer for the first boosted cpe solara....not sienna. :P ) anyway, with the spash guard removed (inner lining in the wheel well) I get a whole lot of water in that intake filter when it rains hard or if I accidentaly go through a puddle. ....sometimes you can't help it. .

Of course you know water = cel so I was wonderng if anyone has one and not only do I need the size, but also a few responses on wether or not it helped with the water problem. As always, all your advice is very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Travis (stund41)
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Postby vinnie the sex » Sun Sep 17, 2006 6:03 pm

u got a bypass valve?
99 solara v6 sle, stock new tailights goin new intake exhaust mabyeeee charged? any suggestions?
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Postby Solorange » Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:32 pm

^^You have no idea what your talking about

Anyways, why do you have to remove your splash guard? Seems to me if you put that back in your problem is solved.
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Postby ThatVietGuy » Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:39 pm

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Postby lightear » Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:45 pm

Yay for vinnie! Yes, a bypass valve will work.
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Postby vinnie the sex » Sun Sep 17, 2006 8:03 pm

stfu solarorange, why do i not know what im talking about?
lightear i cant tel if ur sarcastice or not but isnt that the point of the bypass valve to not let water in when u hit deeper puddles?!
99 solara v6 sle, stock new tailights goin new intake exhaust mabyeeee charged? any suggestions?
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Postby Ford_Fixorrepairdaily » Sun Sep 17, 2006 8:55 pm

Our intake tube is 3". To be sure just measure the diameter of the intake. A bypass valve will work, but restrictive. Just use it when you know during rainy season.
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Postby sydemoid » Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:32 pm

I also have the AEM bypass valve, seems to work just fine.
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Postby lightear » Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:38 pm

vinnie the sex wrote:stfu solarorange, why do i not know what im talking about?
lightear i cant tel if ur sarcastice or not but isnt that the point of the bypass valve to not let water in when u hit deeper puddles?!


Nope, I'm not being sarcastic, you are absolutely right. I'm going to PM you about your rear lights.
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Postby vinnie the sex » Sun Sep 17, 2006 10:02 pm

lol thanx im just used to everyone bein sarcastic and assuming im wrong, abuot those tailights i dont tihnk im going to sell them anymore im sorry. i may smoke them because i think the light setup would look cooler than stock behind the black, but if i do decide to sell i will tell u first.
99 solara v6 sle, stock new tailights goin new intake exhaust mabyeeee charged? any suggestions?
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Postby Solorange » Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:35 am

Sorry I didnt know there was a bypass valve for them. I guess Ill shutup now.
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Postby Hybridlude97 » Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:54 am

First off, put that fenderwell lining back in. It really serves no purpose to be out. Second, the bypass valve is just a back up filter for taking in air incase your air filter becomes totally submerged. Theres mixed reviews on them, but they are in no way restrictive. Its really up to you if you want one or not. Unless you run your car through puddles around a foot or two deep and submerge your filter you really shouldnt need one unless you want it for peace of mind.
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Postby SleeperSolara » Mon Sep 18, 2006 7:23 am

Wow, lol.
This is funny.
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Postby Midias » Mon Sep 18, 2006 10:32 am

Check the website off www.aempower.com they say no forced induction with a bypass valve http://www.aempower.com/Faqs.aspx?CategoryID=20


Q: Can I use an Air Bypass Valve on a forced induction engine?
A: Do NOT use an Air Bypass Valve on engines equipped with forced induction (turbo or superchargers). The increased flow demands created by the forced induction could damage the valve and lead to engine damage.

Q: Quick Tips for Air Bypass Valve installation:
A: AEM is in the process of including diagrams in its Cold Air Induction System (CAS) instructions for Air Bypass Valve placement. In the mean time, if you receive a system without this information and are unsure as to where the Air Bypass Valve installs on your CAS, please contact AEM customer service at (310) 484-2322, extension 300 and we will provide information on proper placement of the valve.

Generally, the Air Bypass Valve installs along the upper section of the induction pipe, close to the throttle body. Do NOT install it too close to the Inlet Air Temp sensor, and NEVER install an air bypass valve in between a throttle body and Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF). Be sure to check for clearance for the width of the Air Bypass Valve during installation, and to use the provided template that comes with your Air Bypass Valve to remove the proper amount of material from the induction pipe.


NEVER use an Air Bypass Valve on a forced induction vehicle as it will damage the valve and could lead to engine damage.
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Postby sydemoid » Mon Sep 18, 2006 11:20 am

$40 for the AEM bypass valve, I put it between the CAE, and the Injen intake.

I still kept the fender fairing on though, I dont plan on letting the fliter get wet.

Its been a rainy season here in NYC, and I can attest to the fliter not getting soaked, I added the bypass valve for peace of mind.....
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